Hi Richard - can't see how to find the video.

Chris

OK, found it now. Looks really good and the work is a credit to you. Not stupidly fast and turns well. Nice one.

I see you are still calling it a Swordsman or is that how the link works?

Null problemo😊 that's what we're all here for exchange of tips and tricks, no one knows it all 😉
Just saw your vid and must say the result looks really great, hats off. 👍👍👍 Hope my Sea Scout upgrade performs as well!
Happy boating, cheers Doug 😎

Can I thank everyone who has contributed to my build. I could not have completed this project without the knowledge freely shared on this website.

Thank you one and all.
Richard

Hi,
I have just posted a video of the boat in action (sorry about the thumbs in shot). See what you think.
Richard

Its pretty much impossible to say with pictures, but some video would tell the story as to is the plane due to speed, or imbalance, at the end of the day its your model so if you are happy that is enough!👍

Agreed ads 👍
Richard, she looks good 👍 so 'if it ain't broke don't fix it' 😉
On no account move the batts forward. But if you're not 'appy then, if anything, a tick further back. Cheers Doug 😎

It looks perfectly good to me - when going at full tilt the lift looks just right and you would expect the bow to dip as the speed is reduced. I wouldn't bother moving the batteries myself.

Hi
I have finally put the boat on the water😁.
i think it looks good and have uploaded three photos (sorry about the quality) the first shows the boat at rest (it had blown a fuse😭) the bow is slightly down, the second photo is the boat at full speed i think this is ok, the third is at about half throttle the boat seems flatter than at full speed. i remember a post earlier in this thread regarding putting the batteries further forward they are currently in the back.
I think it is ok but do you think it is worth experimenting.
Thanks
Richard

I bought and built my Huntsman back in the late 70's. Decided last year to refurbish her.
She is powered by a T600 brushless motor, 2 11.1 v lipos these are positioned midships, x50mm prop, tends to start bow down but when on the plane she looks a beautiful sight.
I must say of all the boats I have this is the favorite one.👍

Hi Richard its in the thread titled motor problem, its not a big feature, but I think you are going to be tail heavy. The misconception is, sometimes people say, oh its planning, so must be fast, but in actual fact its not going fast at all, its actually the balancer, or more importantly the centre of gravity being off, making the bow rise. A good starting point will be with all deck clutter etc, and all fittings etc how does it sit in the water👍

Hi Paul.
I had the same thought, but the balance point is just where the cables kink to the port before going through the second Baulkhead. Could you point me in the direction of the other thread regarding balance. i have read quite a lot about balance and seem to get different 'answers' to this.

Hi Richard

lovely neat clean installation there, makes things so much nicer to work on when it looks like that.

I personally feel your batts will be better in the centre section, similar discussion going on with another thread regarding balance, that stern weigh will cause the bow to raise prematurely, no doubt testing will provide the correct answer

Paul

Hello, another couple of months and a progtrress report is due. I have attached a photo of the electrics finished. All but the permanent engine mount, the current (sorry for the pun)one is adjustable I will make a more stable one in due course. next to finish the top sides, the windows, the windscreen and the mast.

Richard

Very nice job! 👍👍
Nice stand too, variation # 917, or is that the 'bottom washing' apparatus?? 😲😉 Keep up the good work, Cheers Doug 😎

Hello Thank you for the replys regarding electrics it has been most useful.
I have finished the deck and rubbing strake here are a couple of photo's.

Next to tackle the electrics. 😲

Hi Richard, The 'S' rating of a LiPo pack stands for the number of 3.7V cells in the pack. Therefore the 6S pack has 22.2V !!
The kV rating of a brushless motor stands for '1000RPM per volt'.
So, for the sake of illustration, a 1000kV motor would spin at max 22.000 revs at full volts from a 6S !!!! 😲 and will probably draw a lot current!
Speed will depend mainly on the size and pitch of the prop, amongst other factors, including hull shape and weight. in this respect a Bigger prop is NOT always Better!
The charge / discharge rate is given by the 'C' parameter of the pack.
The better quality packs are marked with maximum charge and discharge rates in Amps (A).
Cheers Doug 😎

Hi olly49
having just looked up your motor, I bet it goes like stink!!👍
You have approx 2X the Kv i am starting with😭. I am new to electrickery so i am not too sure about the significance of the 6s?? i belive it is to do with discharge rate? Could you enlighten me as to the corrolation between 6s and motor RPM and most importantly speed. I understand the difference between parallel and series for battery coupling but I do not get the S rating.

Thanks in advance for your help,
Richard

I have a 46" and I have a T600 Brushless on 6S lipos.
This boat really moves.
I built mine in the 70's had an IC engine in then.
😊

I don't think mine is going to see much action for the foreseeable future.

As I've posted elsewhere I dug it out of the back room a few weeks ago with the intention of giving it a go but due to my abuse the battery (12v 7aH) wouldn't hold a charge and inspection of the rest of the installation really means it all wants replacing.

One of my sons has now moved out so I can soon start to make space for model making and want to start on a smaller Swordsman.

Even with the heavy battery taken out and replaced with LiPos those big Huntsman are cumbersome models to move about and launch etc.

hi Richard, certainly a "Huntsman", just finished refurbishing one myself. Replanked the deck curving the planking around the bows was a real challenge, but three weeks later it was well worth it.

Good luck with yours

Hi Richard, if you have a long rat tail file ca 8mm diameter Or even a long 8mm wood bit or reamer) you can still achieve some adjustment!
Worked on my HMS Hotspur; moving the shafts up from about 30° to around 10°. Made a tremendous difference to performance cos it stopped the bow 'digging in'. I made wedges to hold the shaft in the new position and filled in with epoxy glue. Then the usual filling and sanding 😡
Happy wiggling, Doug 😎

Very neat 👍
But I thought all you woodworking aces were 'joggling' fans ?? 😉
Cheers Doug 😎

Hi a couple of photo's of the finished deck and the bow and stern rubbing strakes relaxing to shape over the weekend.

Hi pmdevlin,Thank you for your reply. I have turned the 8mm shaft to 6mm and have sorted the shaft conections, I hope!! unfortunatly it is to late to take your advice and lessen the shaft angle. I will have a little wiggle room as I am using a 8mm shaft tube down from 10mm, I will do what i can to get the prop close to the hull. Thanks also for the avice on the prop size.
Richard

Hi Richard

your motor has a big 8mm shaft, have you thought about how you are going to connect to your propshaft?

It might be too late now, but the early ic shafts where a steep angle, and really a bit far forward under the hull. Imagine the propeller is pushing up, rather than forward. if not too late (its actually not as daunting as you might think) you could do with altering the angle, so the propeller is close to the hull. Work on the fact that 55mm "x" prop will be the biggest, you will end up with 50mm or 52.5mm 👍
I did a lot of testing with my 4 foot 28, hulls are the same almost, we just have to now consider your battery and the resulting amp draw as your esc and motor are rated at 60a

Hi, another month on and things are still progressing. I have finished planking the deck and have started on the rubbing strake.
I am using 3x5mm balsa for the strake and I will be staining it teak. I have bent the strip for the bow and stern, I soaked balsa in hot water for about half an hour. Whilst the strip was soaking i cut strips of masking tape and evanly spaced them around the bow and stern sections ready for the soggy balsa. Then working evenly side to side from the center point, I bent the strip and secured it in place using the pre-installed masking tape. Note work evenly from the center my first effort i worked from the center and concentrated on one side, when i went back to the otherside the strip snapped in the middle (the point of most stress) probably because the wood had Dryed and cooled by the time I went back to it. The strakes are currently relaxing to shape for a few days before I remove the tape.

see; a bit of digging in the depths of the mind you never know what you will remember. the motor i am using is an E-Power BL4020/08 522kv 60A Outrunner Brushless Motor.

I will let you know how i get on

thank you Canabus, i have the motor already for the life of me i can not remember what model it is! i know it is an eflight with i think 524Kv. i got it because it has a lot of torque. i also have a selection of 2 blade X and S props from 35mm to 50mm.
i will check and post the size tomorrow.
Richard

Hi
The D3548/4-1100kv 910watts is outrunner brushless with rear mounting.
Depends on the prop size and number of blades you wish to use.
On the 3639-1100 the 2 blade 40mm works well, but, I tested a 3 blade 37mm and drop speed and increased amps.

here are some more photo's of the progress.i have finished the painting,and as you can see the decking is to be finished..
once the deck is completed and varnished i will make new windows. I have a few ideas for the windscreen (the visor for a face shield comes with a nice bend!

Hello the power set up is to be a brushless outrunner i have been told they have more torque than inrunners. i will let you know how it goes.

Yes, good to hear you are making progress.

I won't be starting building a Swordsman until getting on for winter and that depends on one of my sons moving back out to give me some room!

I've pretty much finished the plans though.

In the meantime I've bought an infinity Hydropro 650mm yacht for some summer sailing.

Sounds if she is coming on nicely rmwall107. Any idea of the power set up as I hope to have one sometime. I want one, I need one, I must have one.... you get the gist, I am smitten

Hi All
This is an Aerokits Swordsman.

hi I have been off the air for a while so time for an update. i have sealed and strengthend the hull by using very light glass cloth and Ezy-cote resin. this was very easy to use and i think gave very good results praticularly as i have not done glassing before. the the boat has been painted now and i am just starting to plank the deck. to plank the deck i am using the permenant marker on the edge to give the impresstion of caulking. i am verying the time the marker is in contact with the wood so the mark very's a little on thickness i think this looks more realistic than an even line, on a test piece it looked good. i will add some photo's soon, i keep forgetting to take them🤔

Hi Richard - the SS does have a front window.

Just found out as well that some of the Swordsman have the longer air vents like the SS. Missed this previously as all the models I've seen have the smaller vents.

I think I've got all the permutations sussed now!

Chris

Thankyou Chris a very comprehensive reply. I think the ss has no front window either?

Richard - good to see you giving the old girl a new lease of life. I agree that it looks like a Precedent Huntsman 31 with the model being 46.5 inches long.
I have one as well.

There are differences in hull design between the various full size models which would be difficult to differentiate between in the models but none of the Swordsman have a full height rear cabin, only partial height and no windows.

The Super Swordsman does have a full height rear cabin, like the Huntsman, but the SS has much longer air vents/cowls on the sides. I have never seen a kit or plans for the SS.

I'm actually going to start building a Swordsman 33 soon and am in the process of drawing up the plans.

Chris

I have purchased a new prop shaft as suggested by Dave M. i am going to insert thrust roler bearings each end adjusted up so there is no slack. i will let you know how it goes.

Hi good news, I have just checked the area of damage around the shaft exit, on further investigation there is no delamination👍 i think I will re stick the ply sheet down then stregthen the area with modeling tissue and resin. i am fotunate that the wood strips that run from the bow to the stern (i think they give the model grip and straight line stability,help i do not know the correct term), give a natural line to patch upto.i will stengthen the interior with wood strips again resind in.

Ok, i accecpt it is very probably a Precedent 46" Huntsman.👍
guess i had best get the saw out and cut the rotten wood out.

Ill put my money on it being a huntsman 31, probably modelled by precedent. I dont know of any models of the Swordsman with aft cabin, it might just help when sourcing parts, fittings etc

The differences also relate to the length as well

Mark

Go to the fairey owners club site, some great info and pictures. Also look up historic racing boats. You'll be pleasantly surprised by what's out there. Some boat yards have some nice examples for sale and the pictures are good for reference.

hello
I thought the difference between the huntsman and the swordsman is the huntsman has a straighter bow than the swordsman?
it is confusing that you can have either in either configuration!

I have both huntsman and swordsman, and visually there is no difference. I have been to many boat yards over the last 50 years and seen both of the real boats, and both can have open tear cockpit or rear cabin. The differences lay within. Nice model and I concur with replacing the delaminated section. I use fine glass cloth coated with water based resin to cover my hulls.(eezicoat) No smells so handy when working in the house and dry in about 25 mins.

Thank you for the advice, i will cut in a new section of ply.

Superb advice from Dave M, just a point the boat you have is not a Swordsman but a Huntsman, good luck with the renovation

Mark

Hi Richard
Whilst the delamination appears local chance are the fuel has penetrated well into the laminates together with water. Use whatever you want to patch the damage but a fresh piece of ply will probably be cheaper and more resilient. Cascamite will not work well with cyano.
I would, after sorting the damage, use a thin resin poured and swilled around the hull insides to seal, followed by a covering of glass fibre or cloth over the outside impregnated with polyester lay up resin. You can fill any resulting blemishes with car body filler.
As the model had an ic engine chances are the prop shaft will be showing signs of its age. Even if the bearings appear ok'ish the shaft is most likely bent or twisted. I suggest whilst you are sorting out the delamination you purchase a new unit of the same size. Most modern kit is metric so your shaft should fit any props and couplings you purchase. Some use an allen key to secure the coupling so this may not apply. Don't forget to fix a locknut and thrust washer at either end of the prop tube.
If you look at the blogs on this site there are several example of how others have completed similar tasks
Hope this helps
Please keep asking if you need any further help
Dave

Some photos of the hull and topsides stripped back,ready for filling