Sail Control that's another item I must take a look at . Col

@Henri The stick that is not spring loaded or self centring, is the one to use for your sail winch.

If you take the back off of your transmitter and operate this stick to identify which one it is, you may find that it has a friction adjuster that can be tightened if you think it moves too freely?

Bob.

@zooma No ratchet that I can detect. One is free moving and can be placed anywhere and the other is self centering. I'll work on it.

@Mike Stoney Merci Michel.

Bonjour Henri,
Tout juste de retour d'un périple, je te souhaite moi aussi la bienvenue !
J'espère que tu trouveras ce que tu cherches ; ici, on s'entraide avec des conseils et des idées géniales. Après, ce que tu en fais, c'est ton affaire ! En tout cas, les expériences que j'ai pu lire ici m'ont été d'une grande aide. Pour moi, c'est le meilleur site pour les bricoleurs !
Michel-Cl.
***

I’ve just returned from a trip, and I’d like to extend a warm welcome to you as well!
I hope you find exactly what you’re looking for here! We support one another by sharing advice and great ideas—though, of course, it’s entirely up to you how you choose to use them! Personally, the accounts and experiences shared by others here have been incredibly helpful to me. In my view, this is the best site for anyone who enjoys crafting!
Michel-C.

@Henri . I am guessing that the transmitter lever that you are using is spring-loaded to make it a self-centring unit?

It would be better to add this function to a stick unit that has a ratchet on it - this is usually the left hand stick on a mode 2 transmitter.

Most Mode 2 RadioLink transmitters come with a ratchet on this stick unit in the forwards and reverse (up and down) movement - something that I always have to change when I buy a new transmitter as I prefer my throttle stick to be self-centring.

If your left hand stick unit does not have a ratchet on it, check to see if the other stick unit has a ratchet on it as your tx may be a Mode 1 transmitter, in which case the ratchet can be moved to the left hand stick unit and the return spring can be added to the right hand unit.

Adding or changing a spring or a ratchet to any stick unit is very simple and obvious once the back of the transmitter case has been removed to reveal the way the sticks work when they are moved.

If all your stick units are self centring, then maybe the previous owner has already removed the ratchet.?

Replacement ratchets (or springs) can be bought online if needed.

Bob.

@zooma The RC seems to be funtioning now. Have responses from both servos. The smaller rudder servo does what I want it to but I do have a question about the HS785 winch servo. It returns to its starting point when you let go of the control stick. The only way to hold a sail position would seem to be to continuously hold power on the stick. This is quite a 'delicate' operation and the winch easily drifts off setting. Is this the normal behaviour of the 785?

The overall construction of the sail control system is nearing completion and I should be able top post some pictures in the next couple of weeks.

Thanks for that info.. At this point any lead is good lead!

Hi Henry,

You can also try the Amazon official RadioLink site for your spare parts etc.

From what I can see, it looks like it is linked to the RadioLink factory, but sold through Amazon.

Prices are higher than AliExpress but it is another source that may be of interest to you.

https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChsSEwiU7vj0kqWXAxXJl1AGHeGpCmwYACICCAEQIBoCZGc&co=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwuJLWBhD_ARIsAIBcRUxLLOZoATFfq3ROZZlnlmEVg4E_xR_JZIW1G1E-YhJjqp4f5Y1IY9YaAhIEEALw_wcB&cid=CAASsAHkaDOmJUKmjt8SA-sSUA5cQwakbgZSHYWFPbyNJBGQnyVVdP1C7APGS3MrYRhKo-Lcw-WD7qGW6LCLLumjiROpP6jWU8zpvmSRQi8sDhVLrRu1j3PcbCpdkuf6HrYswbtjk91gYKQUjylTuzz6EHkcSInS0Ow-woLCIYnpnn1454gQ9ukD2sRecLGlsglzvJqIMK3jfs0faH3v82IUSlJAKhx0EQtxv8vTFcgDWHO1nQ&cce=1&sig=AOD64_1xAMpmqMWkSUo20o0-dTxPTHn4xw&q&adurl&ved=2ahUKEwjqovL0kqWXAxU1Q0EAHYPNH8oQ0Qx6BAgbEAE

Bob.

Forget the SBUS socket.

Hi Henry,

The SBUS socket is something that can be used to connect an electronics board that gives various functions for use on r/c tanks etc, but it is not used for regular connection to your servos.

I use the SBUS connection with my r/c tanks, but can think of no use for it on your r/c yacht.

Choose the receiver socket to match the required stick when you plug in your steering servo and your sail servo.

Usually the left hand stick with the up and down movement for your sail winch (or throttle if you use it on a power boat), and the right hand stick with the left and right movement for your rudder (this would be the same for a power boat rudder).

The only other socket you will probably use on your yacht is the battery socket to plug your on/off switch into.

Forget the SBUS socket - you have no use for it with your yacht.

Bob.

@Henri

Hi Henry,

I think my radio is a RadioLink AT9S, and an AT10, but I will check when I get home.

You can buy anything that you need for your RadioLink set online from China at good prices and fast delivery.

I use Ali Express as they usually have everything available including replacement transmitter cases and battery box covers (!) as well as the usual spare receivers, transmitters, aerials and neck straps etc.

You can also check the new radios that are the same as yours to see what receiver they usually come paired with - although you can bind almost any RadioLink receiver to almost any RadioLink transmitter.

Check-out the RadioLink site to see the full instruction handbook for your particular model.

Bob.

@zooma Sorry, forgot to include the receiver info. Mine is a single wire antenna R8EF.

@zooma My kit is a T8FB. Any help would be greatly appreciated. My first attempt at matching the transmitter to the receiver did not produce the LED I should have expected, but then I am totally bemused by the SBUS, PW whatever and all the acronyms.

I do need to get some additional bits such as a battery pack, switches and connectors for the actual installation in the boat, so trying to find a supplier here in France, preferably near me.

@Henri . I also have a RadioLink 8 channel transmitter, and it is a superb twin stick radio. There is certainly no need to change it as it is a very capable high spec radio that can do far more than you will ever need it to do.

When I am home next I will take a picture of it (and the receiver) to confirm they are the same as yours .

The supplied (or not in my case!) Chinglish instructions are not too good, but I found some online instructions for my RadioLink transmitter (on RadioLinks own site) that are a little clearer and easier to understand.

The truth is that you don’t need to know even half of what the instruction book advises unless you decide at a later date to fly r/c helicopters, or 3D aerobatic aircraft or V tail soaring gliders - all of which can make some use of the custom mixing programmes that you have no use of on your yacht.

If you have the same receiver as me, then it already has two aerial wires coming out of it.

If you do, then simply route one at 90 degrees to the other to get your best signal.

Nice and simple, not extra ariel wires needed.

Bob,.

@RossM Thanks for the info. We do have certain charges for stuff from China and the like and TEMU demand a minimum order of 20 euro before they deliver free. I had not thought of attaching the jib to the forestay (as on a real yacht) I was going to use a secondary inner forestay, but your suggestion is great - I'll go that way.

@Henri
ALI EXPRESS or TEMU
easy to do here, cheap, and fairly fast delivery. I got bags of them, knowing what I was getting into when building the model

Also these: for attaching jibs to fore stays. (FORE STAYS: also known as STAINLESS STEEL PLASTIC COATED FISHING LINE)

@RossM Ross that is the connector/swivel I am looking for. France is not the easiest place to find anything but the next time we go near the coast I will find some I am sure.

@ChrisF I will stick with the Radiolink for the moment as I need to get some others bits and pieces for the install. One comment I did understand in the Chinese instructions was the possibility to install a second antenna, and therefore have one on each side of the boat for better radio contact. My question there is, where on the receiver do you connect a second antenna. The one installed is directly into the circuit board.
No one said this was going to be easy! Thanks to all who read this for the help and advice.

@Henri
Yes Henri, the fishing supply industry does provide useful items like swivels and fishing line for our model boats. This is part of my main sheet, on the test bench

@Henri Hi again Henri - I have a Radiolink transmitter but it's the trigger and wheel type so I can't help you with setup but they are good transmitters.

I have Hitec stick transmitters, some of which are more than 8 channels, but whilst more complicated do tend to offer more adjustment which I used on one of my yachts which gave greater sheet travel than I could get with one of my simpler transmitters. Currently I'm only using 2 channels on my builds despite the Tx having so many. This of course is due to us having to use Tx designed for aircraft mainly.

It may be worthwhile sticking with what you have and trying to find out what you need to know. Others and myself may be able to help along with Google searches.

Chris

@Henri

Hi Henri, I’m really glad you found the right solution for the jib and mainsail control system.
Just recently, we were discussing these issues with RossM (I’m including the link at the end so you can take a look if you like).
I hadn't remembered that you had discussed this too, but your latest message brought it back to mind.
From the photos I’ve seen, I believe you’re using the same system Gary Webb used. It’s a highly functional and well-proven setup, especially if the rudder is doing its job well.

Once you’ve successfully finished the build, I’d be very happy if you posted the photos and a description in that thread as well.

Keep up the good work.

https://model-boats.com/forum/170050

Henri again. I'm happy now that I know what I am building in terms of sail control. I've made a new pulley for the sheet winch, half the diameter of the one that came with ,it and that will give me 9" of travel with 3.5 turns of the Hi-tech HS785. Without complicating the sheet arrangements below deck this nine inches will apply to both main and jib, and any differences in sheet length requirement at the sail will be dealt with by choice of attachment point to the booms (the loose footed jib being controlled by a jib boom).

I think I have an over-complicated radio control (a Radiolink T8FB with 8 channels!). The instructions are in loosely translated Chinese and full of acronyms and I'm really struggling with the whole set up at the moment. I am very much a mechanical engineer and not really into wiggly amps, so I might sell it on and look for a simpler 3 channel unit.

When I have the sail control system set put together I will post some pics.

Henri

Most transmitters these days can control the throw of a servo, sometimes called volume. If in doubt the Tx. pushed out is sails out. Check that the fully in including trim is just enough to bring sails in. A servo can easily drag a suit of sails down if using the larger sail winches.
Roy

@Henri I had to check as obviously it is dependant on the circumference but yes that assumption is correct if the radius is reduced by half.

Frustratingly when I was looking for a winch servo most manufacturers don't seem to provide essential information like turns and maximum sheet travel etc. Fortunately a friend building a yacht was able to help me.

I think I read in one of the posts somewhere on this forum that a Hi-tech 785 winch drum runs a total of 18 inches linear, turn to turn. I assume that fitting a drum of half that diameter would not only reduce the run to 9 inches (a manageable length within my hull) but also increase the torque, which would seem to be a useful benefit for sail hauling.

Glad to have been of assistance Henri. Yes, there are a lot of parts for those models which have come about to some extent due to the competitive racing series for both yachts and are specific to those models. Some parts are useful in other builds though, for example I'm using a keel and bulb from the DF65 in my Fairey Fisherman build as I didn't fancy making my own bulb from lead, though I also make a lot of my own parts as well.

Chris

@ChrisF Your reply has led me down an interesting path with lots of really useful info. I have found a couple of systems very similar to my current 'home invented' installation (which is quite pleasing!) and I think I can adapt/modify and otherwise tinker with all three to produce a working system. Happy hours ahead. Thanks.
H

@ChrisF Thanks for the steer to the website. No problem with access and ordering from France (subject to new EU import charges as of this month). I must say there are an awful lot of little bits that I would not know what to with. I tend to invent a solution to any problem I come up against and make all my own parts. Fishing tackle swivels for standing and running rigging attachment seem okay to me.
H

I have been using a plastic cord which stretches and does the job., it is round section and about 1mm in diameter. When you position the cords on the drum, make the elastic return on the top drum. This is so when it gets a bit stretched and the winch lines slacken a bit, then you can easily wind an extra turn on the drum.
Roy

I don't know if you can access this web-site from France but it stocks spares for the yachts I mentioned including the sheeting elastic, not elastic bands! It is used on deck to tension the sheets.

https://www.radiosailing.co.uk/dragonforce-65-boat-spares-187-c.asp

HI guys, thanks for the great response. I have attached a couple of photos of the below decks set-up. It is a very rough set-up as I determine what the final layout will be. I will then make something a little more presentable. My intention was to use a drum winch (Hi-tech 785HB) driving a linear rail which will pull-in or let out both the main sheet and the jib sheet. Where the sheets are different lengths (jib shorter than main) I will use a pulley reduction together with sheet attachment points to give the correct ratio of reduction to match fix length of travel of the rail. It was this set-up that led me to consider a lead screw arrangement. Speed of winching is not so important as I will not be racing. I have already installed tubes as sheet leads to try to improve 'loose string' control and will explore lightweight rubber bands to reduce it further. My rudder servo is a Hi-tech 300 and will be installed later, once the sail control issues are sorted.
Thanks again for the help and advice. This boat has been a long time in the planning and is still going slow as is my restoration of a Triumph GT6.

As far as the mechanism goes to operate the sails, I have used very successfully a length of dowel with all attached, which can be taken out in one piece to 'service' through a hatch. So, a pulley can be placed at the far end, which might otherwise be difficult to reach.
For a winch system which is previously described and they work well, elastic is needed to keep the tension on the cord that goes around the drum. Do not connect a sheet to this side of the cord!

Good luck
Roy

Unless you can find a very coarse thread for a lead screw like 1 turn moves 1/4 of an inch, some plastic threads are like that. It is all far too slow no matter what speed the motor runs at!

For least amount of string use an arm winch, you may get away with a metal geared 12kgrm or more servo, plus an arm you will need to attach to a servo top.
Have you sorted the internals of a yacht before?
Roy

Welcome Henri.

There is another option using a drum and that is to have a continous loop with the sheet (stringy bits - like it!) attached to it).

I've got to do the sails installation on one of my builds and did consider something else which is a linear servo that Hitec make. They are quite expensive but fancied giving one a go. Didn't in the end as they take up a lot of room lengthways and even the one with the most movement would require a pulley to increase the overall movement.

So I’ve bought a Kingmax Sail Winch Servo which are a popular choice and available in different numbers of turns.

Whatever method is used elastic can be used to keep the sheet under tension (as per the DF65 and 95 yachts) and reduce the chance of snagging.

Alternatively, below deck, as you mentioned for the linear screw, you can always run the sheet through a metal or plastic tube until it exits the deck.

Chris