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Those frames are a good idea as they are self-supporting when floating.
For Sprite Plus one end could be made specifically to fit and could possible use magnets for when reversing or other quick release method.
I won't use my outboard version for recovery but will probably do a quick no frills build for that purpose.
For Sprite Plus one end could be made specifically to fit and could possible use magnets for when reversing or other quick release method.
I won't use my outboard version for recovery but will probably do a quick no frills build for that purpose.
Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12 and also have 2 built by Dave Milbourn
Liked by hermank
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Floating Recovery Frames.
Morning Harry,
We have some of these floating frames in our club and they do work very well.
Made from white PVC waste water tube they can be thrown into the water where they float and be engaged by a suitable power boat to gently push them into position to recover any boat that needs rescuing.
These floating frames are not attached to the recovery craft.
Both ends of the recovery frame are open V shaped so that any suitable craft can drive into the end of it and push it into position.
A similar (but wider) open end on the other end of the frame can then be guided and pushed against the stranded boat to engage with it so it can be pushed back to the waters edge.
Regular club meetings will usually have one of these available, but the lake is open every day so that is when a simple pusher craft could come in handy.
I have some spare water tubing of the type used to make one of these, but they are a bit too big to carry in the car every trip so I have not made one yet.
Next time I am at the club (on a regular club meeting time) I will picture one and add it here..........and maybe make use of the spare water pipe I have in my workshop (shed) and make a smaller one to see if it can work as well as the bigger ones do.
Bob.
Morning Harry,
We have some of these floating frames in our club and they do work very well.
Made from white PVC waste water tube they can be thrown into the water where they float and be engaged by a suitable power boat to gently push them into position to recover any boat that needs rescuing.
These floating frames are not attached to the recovery craft.
Both ends of the recovery frame are open V shaped so that any suitable craft can drive into the end of it and push it into position.
A similar (but wider) open end on the other end of the frame can then be guided and pushed against the stranded boat to engage with it so it can be pushed back to the waters edge.
Regular club meetings will usually have one of these available, but the lake is open every day so that is when a simple pusher craft could come in handy.
I have some spare water tubing of the type used to make one of these, but they are a bit too big to carry in the car every trip so I have not made one yet.
Next time I am at the club (on a regular club meeting time) I will picture one and add it here..........and maybe make use of the spare water pipe I have in my workshop (shed) and make a smaller one to see if it can work as well as the bigger ones do.
Bob.
Never too old to learn
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Hi All
I made this recovery system up a few years ago to fit a number of boats. PVC electrical pipe with pool tubes.
The forward sections are removal via two pins for transport.
The first day we recovered two boats after a test on another boat.
We added the black piece for more protection between boats.
Harry
I made this recovery system up a few years ago to fit a number of boats. PVC electrical pipe with pool tubes.
The forward sections are removal via two pins for transport.
The first day we recovered two boats after a test on another boat.
We added the black piece for more protection between boats.
Harry
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Sprite Plus.
The picture was taken before I splashed some sanding sealer over the balsa, but it was hairy.
I thought it may have been hairy because I used my Perma-Grit tool to shape it with, but subsequent sanding with fine sandpaper did very little to improve it.
After the first coat of sanding sealer, the surface looked much cleaner and when sanded between coats, and the surface stayed smoother.
Bob.
The picture was taken before I splashed some sanding sealer over the balsa, but it was hairy.
I thought it may have been hairy because I used my Perma-Grit tool to shape it with, but subsequent sanding with fine sandpaper did very little to improve it.
After the first coat of sanding sealer, the surface looked much cleaner and when sanded between coats, and the surface stayed smoother.
Bob.
Never too old to learn
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That balsa is hairy isn't it! 😀
Yes, I carried on making changes when I was modifying the drawings for the outboard and am still making the odd tweaks as I'm finalising them ready for building but not straying too far away from the overall look of the original Sprite.
Not sure if I mentioned it on the Sprite thread but I'm building it upside down off the deck (as per my Huntress build) as the deck edge is straight/no sheer and is a simple way of building once the deck has been cut out. I will then add camber later in the build.
I should be starting Scimitar first as that was drawn up a couple of years ago but it will be Sprite Plus (plus outboard! 😀) first.
The parallel sides on your build look fine though, in fact better than I thought they would being a bigger model, so no problems there.
Yes, I carried on making changes when I was modifying the drawings for the outboard and am still making the odd tweaks as I'm finalising them ready for building but not straying too far away from the overall look of the original Sprite.
Not sure if I mentioned it on the Sprite thread but I'm building it upside down off the deck (as per my Huntress build) as the deck edge is straight/no sheer and is a simple way of building once the deck has been cut out. I will then add camber later in the build.
I should be starting Scimitar first as that was drawn up a couple of years ago but it will be Sprite Plus (plus outboard! 😀) first.
The parallel sides on your build look fine though, in fact better than I thought they would being a bigger model, so no problems there.
Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12 and also have 2 built by Dave Milbourn
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Hi Chris,
My prototype Sprite Plus was already under way when some of the later design details were considerd.
The cabin sides on my Sprite Plus prototype are straight and don't have the angle in them that you have since added, so it is more like the original Sprite so it is not quite such a sophisticated shape.
I did change the cabin front from being a flat screen to a two sided screen with an angled front- very much like you have drawn on your proposed outboard variant.
I have the option of adding an angled bows to this prototype at any time (even after "sea trials") but for now at least it will stay with the flat (punt shaped) bows as it makes this craft different from anything else that I have ever built or owned.....and I do think it would suite your outboard variant really well.
The flat front may or may not be an advantage for any recovery work, as I still have some ideas about making a "pusher frame" to add to the bows, but the plan is to build and test the hull as it is first.
Bob.
My prototype Sprite Plus was already under way when some of the later design details were considerd.
The cabin sides on my Sprite Plus prototype are straight and don't have the angle in them that you have since added, so it is more like the original Sprite so it is not quite such a sophisticated shape.
I did change the cabin front from being a flat screen to a two sided screen with an angled front- very much like you have drawn on your proposed outboard variant.
I have the option of adding an angled bows to this prototype at any time (even after "sea trials") but for now at least it will stay with the flat (punt shaped) bows as it makes this craft different from anything else that I have ever built or owned.....and I do think it would suite your outboard variant really well.
The flat front may or may not be an advantage for any recovery work, as I still have some ideas about making a "pusher frame" to add to the bows, but the plan is to build and test the hull as it is first.
Bob.
Never too old to learn
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Pointed nose, which as well as removing the flatness echoes the shape of the windows to the front of the cabin - not shown on sideview.
You can see that I've finished the rubbing strips where the nose starts.
You can see that I've finished the rubbing strips where the nose starts.
Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12 and also have 2 built by Dave Milbourn
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His Chris,
Are you going to keep the square "punt" front or go for the modified pointed nose as shown in your plan elevation.
Bob.
Are you going to keep the square "punt" front or go for the modified pointed nose as shown in your plan elevation.
Bob.
Never too old to learn
Liked by hermank and Madwelshman
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I do like the Sports Fisherman (obviously! 😁) and plenty, if not most of them are fitted with outboards to provide more space inside the boat but yeah it looks like a vote for the Sprite Plus as it is so different and the Scimitar wasn't already on the cards with the same hull.
Also it will be a good test bed for sorting out the mounting of the outboard. It will be my first water-cooled model as well!
Bit busy, as it's got my construction lines on it, but here are the plan and side view. The keel, frames and cabin/cockpit sides are drawn up so all ready to go.
Also it will be a good test bed for sorting out the mounting of the outboard. It will be my first water-cooled model as well!
Bit busy, as it's got my construction lines on it, but here are the plan and side view. The keel, frames and cabin/cockpit sides are drawn up so all ready to go.
Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12 and also have 2 built by Dave Milbourn
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To me Chris, the Sprite Plus really suits the look of having an outboard motor.
The Scimitar with water jet propulsion will make a different, and interesting model, both to look at, and to enjoy using.
The Sports Fisherman, I'm not as keen on the look of with an outboard motor.
Having said that, we're all different, and have different tastes.
Two more interesting model boats that I look forward to seeing take shape, and seeing how each one performs.
Will
The Scimitar with water jet propulsion will make a different, and interesting model, both to look at, and to enjoy using.
The Sports Fisherman, I'm not as keen on the look of with an outboard motor.
Having said that, we're all different, and have different tastes.
Two more interesting model boats that I look forward to seeing take shape, and seeing how each one performs.
Will
Precedent Perkasa MTB 49 1/2"
Precedent Fairey Huntsman 46"
Veron Fairey Huntsman 28 42"
Precedent Fairey Huntsman 36"
Aerokits Sea Commander 34"
Aerokits Sea Rover 29 1/2"
SLEC Fairey Huntress 23"
Precedent Fairey Huntsman 46"
Veron Fairey Huntsman 28 42"
Precedent Fairey Huntsman 36"
Aerokits Sea Commander 34"
Aerokits Sea Rover 29 1/2"
SLEC Fairey Huntress 23"
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Hi Bob
The Bayonet 35 (as you say 35" or thereabouts) is actually the updated Stiletto/Rapier with the modified stern and more modern superstructure with my Scimitar being based on the open top Sports 35. I've actually made quite a few changes because as well as those for the water-jet I've narrowed the hull towards the stern, put some angle on the hull sides and the cabin/cockpit sides are curved to follow the shape of the hull. Still has the DNA of the Rapier etc. though.
My Sports Fisherman more closely follows the design of the Fisherman 35 but with similar changes made as per the Scimitar and has a taller and longer top part to the superstructure to as I said to better balance the outboard.
No problem with the Swordsman 37 as you are basically going to build a stretched 33 hull and the superstructure will be easy enough to draw. I shall start looking at it before too long.
Chris
The Bayonet 35 (as you say 35" or thereabouts) is actually the updated Stiletto/Rapier with the modified stern and more modern superstructure with my Scimitar being based on the open top Sports 35. I've actually made quite a few changes because as well as those for the water-jet I've narrowed the hull towards the stern, put some angle on the hull sides and the cabin/cockpit sides are curved to follow the shape of the hull. Still has the DNA of the Rapier etc. though.
My Sports Fisherman more closely follows the design of the Fisherman 35 but with similar changes made as per the Scimitar and has a taller and longer top part to the superstructure to as I said to better balance the outboard.
No problem with the Swordsman 37 as you are basically going to build a stretched 33 hull and the superstructure will be easy enough to draw. I shall start looking at it before too long.
Chris
Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12 and also have 2 built by Dave Milbourn
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Hi Chris,
The Sprite Plus just looks so perfectly suited to the outboard motor - probably better than it does with the conventional inboard drive that I am using in my own Sprite Plus Prototype!
With or without the "punt nose" this will be a really nice outboard powered boat, and I actually think the flat front suites the outboard variant perfectly.
I was looking for some Perkassa plans to pass on to EdW when I stumbled on two tubes of plans from the 'Project 3" think tank (yourself, Will and myself) - and guess what..?
Inside the tubes was the drawings for both of the two boat profiles you have shown above, both marked as Stiletto Plus designs based on an enlarged Stiletto hull form.
One was marked as Bayonet 35 and the other Fisherman 35. From the names I am guessing they are both 35" long? (long time ago - old age memory not too good).
I am also guessing that the Scimitar that you are going to build will be a close variant of the Bayonet 35?
The Scimitar name suites this beautiful profile that you have created much better than the Bayonet 35 name does!
I have still not ever driven a Stiletto, but if the hull performs anything like as well as the Rapier does, it will be a winner!
My own future plans include the Swordsman 37 as my preferred next project (if you are still going to draw the plans?), but if not I may go for the Bayonet 35 (Scimitar).
Longer term (always a bit optimistic at my age) I would like to build them both, but given the choice I would prefer to build the Swordsman 37 next if I had the choice.
You will enjoy building the Sprite Plus - your plans fit everything together perfectly and I have really enjoyed building the prototype so far. 👍
Bob.
The Sprite Plus just looks so perfectly suited to the outboard motor - probably better than it does with the conventional inboard drive that I am using in my own Sprite Plus Prototype!
With or without the "punt nose" this will be a really nice outboard powered boat, and I actually think the flat front suites the outboard variant perfectly.
I was looking for some Perkassa plans to pass on to EdW when I stumbled on two tubes of plans from the 'Project 3" think tank (yourself, Will and myself) - and guess what..?
Inside the tubes was the drawings for both of the two boat profiles you have shown above, both marked as Stiletto Plus designs based on an enlarged Stiletto hull form.
One was marked as Bayonet 35 and the other Fisherman 35. From the names I am guessing they are both 35" long? (long time ago - old age memory not too good).
I am also guessing that the Scimitar that you are going to build will be a close variant of the Bayonet 35?
The Scimitar name suites this beautiful profile that you have created much better than the Bayonet 35 name does!
I have still not ever driven a Stiletto, but if the hull performs anything like as well as the Rapier does, it will be a winner!
My own future plans include the Swordsman 37 as my preferred next project (if you are still going to draw the plans?), but if not I may go for the Bayonet 35 (Scimitar).
Longer term (always a bit optimistic at my age) I would like to build them both, but given the choice I would prefer to build the Swordsman 37 next if I had the choice.
You will enjoy building the Sprite Plus - your plans fit everything together perfectly and I have really enjoyed building the prototype so far. 👍
Bob.
Never too old to learn
Liked by Madwelshman and hermank
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I'm keeping the impetuous going with my Fairey Fisherman build and must return to my other Fairey builds to finish them but I'm also thinking I must make a start on some of my other planned projects. I like to have more than one build on the go and I recently stocked up on thicker ply for the keels etc.
One of these is Scimitar, my water-jet project, for which I produced the drawings over 2 years ago and bought the water-jet well over a year ago. The hull is based on the excellent Rapier etc. hull.
The other is my outboard project. After a long wait, I ordered it before Christmas, the outboard arrived a few weeks go. It's a big old lump and nicely made. Bigger than I wanted really, but there are very few on the market nowadays, unless you go for 3D printed, and the smaller TFL one is not really suitable for my needs.
But I'm now in a bit of a quandary! I've drawn up a version of the Sprite Plus suitable for an outboard and at 30" that's around the ideal size I wanted and the size of the motor looks OK. But I was also thinking I fancied something with a more traditional and sleeker look and already having drawings produced for a Fisherman, again based on the Rapier hull, so I've modified those and called it Sports Fisherman. Not only for the outboard but I've also increased the size of the top part of the superstructure in height and length to balance the size of the outboard, I think it just about looks alright. But this a bit bigger at 35" over the Sprite Plus's 30".
So, I think I'll build the Scimitar and the Sprite Plus for now, as the Sports Fisherman has the same hull as the Scimitar and the Sprite Plus is a quicker easier build, though the outboard has its own challenges. I can always build the Sports Fisherman later with another outboard or maybe traditional prop. Then again! 😀
Chris
One of these is Scimitar, my water-jet project, for which I produced the drawings over 2 years ago and bought the water-jet well over a year ago. The hull is based on the excellent Rapier etc. hull.
The other is my outboard project. After a long wait, I ordered it before Christmas, the outboard arrived a few weeks go. It's a big old lump and nicely made. Bigger than I wanted really, but there are very few on the market nowadays, unless you go for 3D printed, and the smaller TFL one is not really suitable for my needs.
But I'm now in a bit of a quandary! I've drawn up a version of the Sprite Plus suitable for an outboard and at 30" that's around the ideal size I wanted and the size of the motor looks OK. But I was also thinking I fancied something with a more traditional and sleeker look and already having drawings produced for a Fisherman, again based on the Rapier hull, so I've modified those and called it Sports Fisherman. Not only for the outboard but I've also increased the size of the top part of the superstructure in height and length to balance the size of the outboard, I think it just about looks alright. But this a bit bigger at 35" over the Sprite Plus's 30".
So, I think I'll build the Scimitar and the Sprite Plus for now, as the Sports Fisherman has the same hull as the Scimitar and the Sprite Plus is a quicker easier build, though the outboard has its own challenges. I can always build the Sports Fisherman later with another outboard or maybe traditional prop. Then again! 😀
Chris
Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12 and also have 2 built by Dave Milbourn
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