Sprite Plus
Specifications
- Boat Length
- 30" (76.20 cm)
- Motor Type
- Brushless
- Drive Type
- Direct
- Props
- Single
- Max Amps
- 120A
- Battery Type
- LiPo
- Battery mAh
- 5Ah (5,000 mAh)
- Prop Type
- 2 Blade
- Prop Size
- 45mm
- Run Time
- 30 min
- Model Speed
- 30 km/h (18.6mph)
Photos
About this boat
The plans for this lengthened model were drawn up by Chris, who is also planning to build one for himself to use it with an outboard motor - something that looks really good and should be a superb combination.
Meanwhile I am building this as the “prototype” Sprite Plus with a conventional single shaft drive, and I will keep Chris aware of any changes that I make that may be of benefit to him when he builds his own version at a later date.
The main design change (apart from the length) is the front cabin detail that has changed from a flat screen to a “V” shaped double windscreen design.
Chris had drawn this on the plan, but (as is the way with prototypes) I have changed it a little as things tend to “evolve” with prototype builds and my version has been planned to be built right from the start with an integrated cabin construction with access being gained via a “lift-off” cabin top.
Chris prefers to have a complete lift-off superstructure that does give better accessibility, but I prefer to forgo a little accessibility and gain the superior strength and water-proofing that the integrated construction type provides.
My build choice has been ingrained in me ever since I raced my Aerokits Swordsman in an off-shore race in the open sea in the late 1960’s and my friend who had a very similar Swordsman (but with a lift-off cabin) was unable to complete as his complete superstructure was easily “washed-off” by any wave or heavy wake, and even when it was able to stay in place, any “deck-wash” tended to enter the hull as it crept in under where the superstructure sat on the deck.
My friend was a superb craftsman who earned his living as a furniture maker, and so his build quality was far better than anything that I was able to achieve (then or now!), but the construction method could never be as water tight - even with his perfect fit between deck and superstructure.
My build is not yet complete, so I will change the “lead picture” when it is finished, but for now the picture shows the design as it is being built.
Bob,
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Comments
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I think that it will take several coats of this particular gloss colour to stop it looking blotchy and “see through”.
Maybe I should have mixed some of this orange paint in some white undercoat to make an orange coloured undercoat first?
I will be back home again in a week or so and I will take another look at it then, but it is unlikely to improve on its own........
Bob.
Thanks Will.
Sometimes if I come up with something and it looks "right I am really pleased with it, but this time I failed as I am not at all convinced that this wind screen looks as good as it could.
Maybe the side screens should have been a little longer, but I am also used to looking at the long sweeping Fairey Marine type of huge "wrap-around" screens...and this is a small working/leisure boat - so maybe the length is not so bad?
I also have a small problem with the three part roof . It was perfectly inline when I built it, but it is now beginning to lift slightly along the sides and misalign slightly.
The Tamiya razor saw will probably be called into action to cut into the ends of the 4 roof formers in the hope that when it is pulled back down onto the formers, the width of the saw blade will be enough to bring the roof skin back into alignment again 🤞
Bob.
Whether or not losing the chunky mast would improve the look any further or not I'm not sure.
Overall though, I like it personally.
Will
Here is a side profile picture to show the cockpit windscreen mock-up.
Any helpful comments will be appreciated for longer term appraisal, but I have decided not to spend any more time on the windscreen as I want to "press-on" and get this prototype boat in the water to see how it performs.
I can add more detail to improve its appearance and make any other changes after the boat has got it's hull wet and I know if it needs any major changes.
To be honest, I think the boat will work well and the fears that I had about the punt shaped bows causing problems with the handling (when slowing down quickly and/or turning into wash and rough water) will prove to be unfounded. 🤞
Chris has done a good job with the drawings for this up-sized Sprite and it has gone together very well. It's up to me now to get it finished and in the water for performance testing.
Bob.
Thanks Will,
I will slap some undercoat on it today to help me decide whether to keep it or loose it.
....but the Tamiya razor saw is ready..................
Bob.
Will
At the moment I am still not too sure about it, but I will give it "another coat of looking at" and try to decide whether to keep it or scrap it.
What I do like is the idea I had to use the base of the screen as a "lock" for the central cabin to slide under as it is fitted. I think this idea works well and if I do decide to change the shape and/or size of the screen I will keep this idea.
Bob.
I divided the cabin roof into three parts so that I could add a coaming to the rear of the engine bay so that I could mount a windscreen (or a wind defector) on it if I decided to make one.
The Sprite never had a cockpit windscreen and it looks OK without one, so if I don't come up with anything that I like the look of, my Sprite Plus will run without one.
Bob.
The moulded rudder sleeve that comes with the usual rudder types (that we mostly all use these days) comes quite long and stands tall, and this usually extends it well above the water line...........but any part of it that is above the keel is unsupported.
Your keel drawings with the integrated rudder support is far superior.
Bob.
I have thought about using a servo on it's side before but the swing of the arm meant that I didn't really gain anything heightwise.
The wing servo I've used on my Fisherman build could be a good alternative in smaller models where the load from the rudder isn't too great, though they are surprisingly powerful.
With all of my builds I ensure that the top of the rudder tube is above the chine/waterline.