Scratch built. 1:16 Scale. All data researched from internet.
3D CAD modeled.
IC 16M is a swedish 15.9m. Aluminum Coast Guard Boat driven by 2 800HP Jet'Drives. Max. Speed 50 Knots. Builder: Dockstavarvet.
Model constructed of all glued ABS 1.524mm (0.060") sheets. Deck details under construction.
Powered with two 28mm. Kehrer Jet Drives. 2 Swang Hobby 1200 KV brushless motors 2 90A Seaking ESC 5S / 18.5V - 25C -5000 maH LiPo Hyperion Battery.
Weight included 1 Bat 4300 gr.
Running at Mazenod Road Pond, Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada. Oct 19th -2014
Jagged video because of stabilized feature from Youtube.
{"text":"Scratch built. 1:16 Scale. All data researched from internet.\n3D CAD modeled. \nIC 16M is a swedish 15.9m. Aluminum Coast Guard Boat driven by 2 800HP Jet'Drives. Max. Speed 50 Knots. Builder: Dockstavarvet. \nModel constructed of all glued ABS 1.524mm (0.060\") sheets. Deck details under construction.\nPowered with two 28mm. Kehrer Jet Drives. 2 Swang Hobby 1200 KV brushless motors 2 90A Seaking ESC 5S / 18.5V - 25C -5000 maH LiPo Hyperion Battery.\nWeight included 1 Bat 4300 gr.\nRunning at Mazenod Road Pond, Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada. Oct 19th -2014\nJagged video because of stabilized feature from Youtube.","subject":"IC 16M","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rnwpMZ1qtvg"}
Scratch built. 1:16 Scale. All data researched from internet.
3D CAD modeled.
IC 16M is a swedish 15.9m. Aluminum Coast Guard Boat driven by 2 800HP Jet'Drives. Max. Speed 50 Knots. Builder: Dockstavarvet.
Model constructed of all glued ABS 1.524mm (0.060") sheets. Deck details under construction.
Powered with two 28mm. Kehrer Jet Drives. 2 Swang Hobby 1200 KV brushless motors 2 90A Seaking ESC 5S / 18.5V - 25C -5000 maH LiPo Hyperion Battery.
Weight included 1 Bat 4300 gr.
Running at Mazenod Road Pond, Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada. Oct 19th -2014
Jagged video because of stabilized feature from Youtube.
Photos for Nasraf:
As promised, close-ups of the hatch seal. The rim attached to the deck is 0.5mm mahogany. The inner skin of the drop cockpit is two strips of 0.5mm mahogany glued together. The outer skin and cabiln are made from 1.5mm mahogany. The curve was formed by plank bending soaked mahogany strip. The channel is filled with Vaseline to ensure a waterproof seal.
{"text":"Photos for Nasraf:\nAs promised, close-ups of the hatch seal. The rim attached to the deck is 0.5mm mahogany. The inner skin of the drop cockpit is two strips of 0.5mm mahogany glued together. The outer skin and cabiln are made from 1.5mm mahogany. The curve was formed by plank bending soaked mahogany strip. The channel is filled with Vaseline to ensure a waterproof seal.","subject":"Velsheda","media":[{"id":"1413235131","name":"1413235131.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1413235131/l","thumbUrl":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1413235131/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1413235179","name":"1413235179.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1413235179/l","thumbUrl":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1413235179/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1413235222","name":"1413235222.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1413235222/l","thumbUrl":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1413235222/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1413235264","name":"1413235264.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1413235264/l","thumbUrl":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1413235264/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"}],"youtubeUrl":""}
Photos for Nasraf:
As promised, close-ups of the hatch seal. The rim attached to the deck is 0.5mm mahogany. The inner skin of the drop cockpit is two strips of 0.5mm mahogany glued together. The outer skin and cabiln are made from 1.5mm mahogany. The curve was formed by plank bending soaked mahogany strip. The channel is filled with Vaseline to ensure a waterproof seal.
just adding the little final touches and other small fixings. any tips on what sort of glue to use to fix all the small bolt heads around the rear deck main hatches? istarted the build last august so it has taken me 10 months to 99% complete the build including the Y boat,but still not had it in water yet but very soon
{"text":"just adding the little final touches and other small fixings. any tips on what sort of glue to use to fix all the small bolt heads around the rear deck main hatches? istarted the build last august so it has taken me 10 months to 99% complete the build including the Y boat,but still not had it in water yet but very soon","subject":"1/12 tamar","media":[{"id":"1371313899","name":"1371313899.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1371313899/l","thumbUrl":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1371313899/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"}],"youtubeUrl":""}
just adding the little final touches and other small fixings. any tips on what sort of glue to use to fix all the small bolt heads around the rear deck main hatches? istarted the build last august so it has taken me 10 months to 99% complete the build including the Y boat,but still not had it in water yet but very soon
I have found that a parallel ribbon cable from an old desktop computer (80 way type) are ideal for mast lights or working Radar etc. and can be glued down neatly.
The end connectors are easily removed without damaging the cable. it is possible to separate two or three insulated wires or however many wires or pairs you need to run to different areas of the hull or the superstructure.
For mast lights or radar etc, I found that wires in pairs are the best way to feed multiple pairs of wires up a mast tube etc. (It helps to feed wires through tubes with a dab of talcum powder to ease the wires through). I was able to run 4 pairs of these fine cables up a 3mm mast tube.
The wires are single strand insulated and easy to solder onto led's or bulbs with very fine heatshrink tubing to insulate. Because these wires are very fine the lights or radar supply should be fused at a low amperage rate. 250mA in my Tug.
{"text":"I have found that a parallel ribbon cable from an old desktop computer (80 way type) are ideal for mast lights or working Radar etc. and can be glued down neatly.\n \nThe end connectors are easily removed without damaging the cable. it is possible to separate two or three insulated wires or however many wires or pairs you need to run to different areas of the hull or the superstructure.\n\nFor mast lights or radar etc, I found that wires in pairs are the best way to feed multiple pairs of wires up a mast tube etc. (It helps to feed wires through tubes with a dab of talcum powder to ease the wires through). I was able to run 4 pairs of these fine cables up a 3mm mast tube.\n\nThe wires are single strand insulated and easy to solder onto led's or bulbs with very fine heatshrink tubing to insulate. Because these wires are very fine the lights or radar supply should be fused at a low amperage rate. 250mA in my Tug.","subject":"Mast Lighting fine parallel wires for mast lights or radar","media":[{"id":"1364752800","name":"1364752800.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1364752800/l","thumbUrl":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1364752800/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"}],"youtubeUrl":""}
Mast Lighting fine parallel wires for mast lights or radar
I have found that a parallel ribbon cable from an old desktop computer (80 way type) are ideal for mast lights or working Radar etc. and can be glued down neatly.
The end connectors are easily removed without damaging the cable. it is possible to separate two or three insulated wires or however many wires or pairs you need to run to different areas of the hull or the superstructure.
For mast lights or radar etc, I found that wires in pairs are the best way to feed multiple pairs of wires up a mast tube etc. (It helps to feed wires through tubes with a dab of talcum powder to ease the wires through). I was able to run 4 pairs of these fine cables up a 3mm mast tube.
The wires are single strand insulated and easy to solder onto led's or bulbs with very fine heatshrink tubing to insulate. Because these wires are very fine the lights or radar supply should be fused at a low amperage rate. 250mA in my Tug.
Hello from Australia Thought it was time I made a an effort. Three of my models shown here at last years local model show in Port Macquarie. L to R they are Cervia,now 20 years old,Wyola, an Australian built tug.Twin motors and Kort nozzles.and Old Trafford, MSC paddle tuc in 1/35 scale. All are totally scratch built. The only things bought were materials,paint and glue, Except the stantions for Old Trafford. Currenly finishing a Maycraft Mercury(started in 1962 in England) and a Vosper fireboat.Hope this may be of interest
{"text":"Hello from Australia Thought it was time I made a an effort. Three of my models shown here at last years local model show in Port Macquarie. L to R they are Cervia,now 20 years old,Wyola, an Australian built tug.Twin motors and Kort nozzles.and Old Trafford, MSC paddle tuc in 1/35 scale. All are totally scratch built. The only things bought were materials,paint and glue, Except the stantions for Old Trafford. Currenly finishing a Maycraft Mercury(started in 1962 in England) and a Vosper fireboat.Hope this may be of interest","subject":"Cervia,Wyola, Old Trafford","media":[{"id":"1361408961","name":"1361408961.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1361408961/l","thumbUrl":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1361408961/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"}],"youtubeUrl":""}
Hello from Australia Thought it was time I made a an effort. Three of my models shown here at last years local model show in Port Macquarie. L to R they are Cervia,now 20 years old,Wyola, an Australian built tug.Twin motors and Kort nozzles.and Old Trafford, MSC paddle tuc in 1/35 scale. All are totally scratch built. The only things bought were materials,paint and glue, Except the stantions for Old Trafford. Currenly finishing a Maycraft Mercury(started in 1962 in England) and a Vosper fireboat.Hope this may be of interest
The way that I do my hull plating is......to use printer paper about 90gsm, and divide the hull up into approriate lines horizontal and vertical to represent the plating once the hull is sanded and smooth of course.
then cut the paper into the sizes that you need to represent the hull plating.
then thin down waterproof PVA glue so that is like double cream and then to represent the plate joggling lay each piece onto the edge of a steel rule so thar about 1/8th is overlapping and then run your thumb nail along the edge of the rule this will give you a joggled edge, repeat if you need more than one joggle per plate, have a practice first and see how easy it is.
then just stick tmen onto the hull using the PVA glue remembering to overlap the joggles ( I like that word). Easy peasy.
once every thing is really hard and dry ,give the paper two or three coats of the PVA all over and it dries like glass.
{"text":"The way that I do my hull plating is......to use printer paper about 90gsm, and divide the hull up into approriate lines horizontal and vertical to represent the plating once the hull is sanded and smooth of course.\nthen cut the paper into the sizes that you need to represent the hull plating.\nthen thin down waterproof PVA glue so that is like double cream and then to represent the plate joggling lay each piece onto the edge of a steel rule so thar about 1/8th is overlapping and then run your thumb nail along the edge of the rule this will give you a joggled edge, repeat if you need more than one joggle per plate, have a practice first and see how easy it is.\nthen just stick tmen onto the hull using the PVA glue remembering to overlap the joggles ( I like that word). Easy peasy.\nonce every thing is really hard and dry ,give the paper two or three coats of the PVA all over and it dries like glass.","subject":"Hull plating detail","media":[{"id":"1358175853","name":"1358175853.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1358175853/l","thumbUrl":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1358175853/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1358175845","name":"1358175845.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1358175845/l","thumbUrl":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1358175845/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1358175837","name":"1358175837.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1358175837/l","thumbUrl":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1358175837/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1358175830","name":"1358175830.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1358175830/l","thumbUrl":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1358175830/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"}],"youtubeUrl":""}
The way that I do my hull plating is......to use printer paper about 90gsm, and divide the hull up into approriate lines horizontal and vertical to represent the plating once the hull is sanded and smooth of course.
then cut the paper into the sizes that you need to represent the hull plating.
then thin down waterproof PVA glue so that is like double cream and then to represent the plate joggling lay each piece onto the edge of a steel rule so thar about 1/8th is overlapping and then run your thumb nail along the edge of the rule this will give you a joggled edge, repeat if you need more than one joggle per plate, have a practice first and see how easy it is.
then just stick tmen onto the hull using the PVA glue remembering to overlap the joggles ( I like that word). Easy peasy.
once every thing is really hard and dry ,give the paper two or three coats of the PVA all over and it dries like glass.
HI Ian as promised some more photos
No 1 My First landing on water last Thursday eve.
No 2 Modified funnel, 2 extra vents on top and vents at side to allow the fan to push air out
No 3 Bow of boat the gun base is a CD with 1/8 square glued on sprayed Ford Dove Grey
No 4 I took this one Thursday Eve hence still in water!!
Hope they are OK for you
Brian
{"text":"HI Ian as promised some more photos \nNo 1 My First landing on water last Thursday eve.\nNo 2 Modified funnel, 2 extra vents on top and vents at side to allow the fan to push air out \nNo 3 Bow of boat the gun base is a CD with 1/8 square glued on sprayed Ford Dove Grey \nNo 4 I took this one Thursday Eve hence still in water!!\nHope they are OK for you\nBrian","subject":"veron fast patrol boat","media":[{"id":"1348407774","name":"1348407774.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1348407774/l","thumbUrl":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1348407774/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1348407830","name":"1348407830.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1348407830/l","thumbUrl":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1348407830/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1348407873","name":"1348407873.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1348407873/l","thumbUrl":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1348407873/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1348407898","name":"1348407898.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1348407898/l","thumbUrl":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1348407898/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"}],"youtubeUrl":""}
HI Ian as promised some more photos
No 1 My First landing on water last Thursday eve.
No 2 Modified funnel, 2 extra vents on top and vents at side to allow the fan to push air out
No 3 Bow of boat the gun base is a CD with 1/8 square glued on sprayed Ford Dove Grey
No 4 I took this one Thursday Eve hence still in water!!
Hope they are OK for you
Brian
HI Ian, thanks. As regards LIPOs I use Turnigy 2200 $40-40c Discharge. I have doubled them up in the boat 4400 11.1v. So good capacity, no more power. No problems with the brushed engines. On my Veron Huntsman, 52" again, with a brushless no problems, but I have used 20-25c discharge and they puffed up, I can still use them on low powered aircraft, flying time is just down a tad. So get the biggest mAh battery you can afford, with the biggest discharge available you shouldn't have any problems, just don't get salt water near them. As far as costs a re concerned go for reputable supplier, I only use Turnigy, in the early days I used various suppliers but I was Ignorant and did most of the damage myself!! so I can't blame the battery, but I do know that Turnigy are pretty bullet proof, but if you want a recommendation I would go for A123's but make sure you can charge them from your existing charger, (LIFE4 is how I charge mine), good luck
Brian
HI Ian, thanks. As regards LIPOs I use Turnigy 2200 $40-40c Discharge. I have doubled them up in the boat 4400 11.1v. So good capacity, no more power. No problems with the brushed engines. On my Veron Huntsman, 52" again, with a brushless no problems, but I have used 20-25c discharge and they puffed up, I can still use them on low powered aircraft, flying time is just down a tad. So get the biggest mAh battery you can afford, with the biggest discharge available you shouldn't have any problems, just don't get salt water near them. As far as costs a re concerned go for reputable supplier, I only use Turnigy, in the early days I used various suppliers but I was Ignorant and did most of the damage myself!! so I can't blame the battery, but I do know that Turnigy are pretty bullet proof, but if you want a recommendation I would go for A123's but make sure you can charge them from your existing charger, (LIFE4 is how I charge mine), good luck
Brian
Thanks for the info Brian- just gathering as much info and opinion as I can before I part with hard earned cash. The Turnigy Lipos seem to get mainly favourable reviews and they seem a bit cheaper than some. I suppose in the end I shall just have to try some and see what happens. Not sure whether my charger would charge A123's- I'd need to check- it's a Sigma intelligent Charger- pretty standard I think.
Ian
Thanks for the info Brian- just gathering as much info and opinion as I can before I part with hard earned cash. The Turnigy Lipos seem to get mainly favourable reviews and they seem a bit cheaper than some. I suppose in the end I shall just have to try some and see what happens. Not sure whether my charger would charge A123's- I'd need to check- it's a Sigma intelligent Charger- pretty standard I think.
Ian
Hello Bob ,Finally got started on the fireboat. Have stripped all the paint and varnish from the deck up and also inside the hull. Now have separated all the cabin roofing and upper bulkheads for access to the keel which has delaminated in places. The complete shaft just pulled out of the hull, the glue had no adhesion at all and a new oil fed shaft will be fitted. The next job will be to strip the paint on the hull, check it out and glass laminate it. More photos soon. Regards Graeme.....
{"text":"Hello Bob ,Finally got started on the fireboat. Have stripped all the paint and varnish from the deck up and also inside the hull. Now have separated all the cabin roofing and upper bulkheads for access to the keel which has delaminated in places. The complete shaft just pulled out of the hull, the glue had no adhesion at all and a new oil fed shaft will be fitted. The next job will be to strip the paint on the hull, check it out and glass laminate it. More photos soon. Regards Graeme.....","subject":"34inch RAF Fireboat","media":[{"id":"1290368918","name":"1290368918.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1290368918/l","thumbUrl":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1290368918/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1290368919","name":"1290368919.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1290368919/l","thumbUrl":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1290368919/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1290368920","name":"1290368920.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1290368920/l","thumbUrl":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1290368920/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1290368921","name":"1290368921.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1290368921/l","thumbUrl":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1290368921/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"}],"youtubeUrl":""}
Hello Bob ,Finally got started on the fireboat. Have stripped all the paint and varnish from the deck up and also inside the hull. Now have separated all the cabin roofing and upper bulkheads for access to the keel which has delaminated in places. The complete shaft just pulled out of the hull, the glue had no adhesion at all and a new oil fed shaft will be fitted. The next job will be to strip the paint on the hull, check it out and glass laminate it. More photos soon. Regards Graeme.....
HI all. This is an, RAF Fire Tender 32" that was given to me 30+ years ago by a friend who was going to scrap it. it's been stored in my garage loft all this time. I am about to start the restoration of the boat but havn't done any modelling since I was a youngster.
It has no running gear but was originally powered by a nitro engine, I am hoping to convert it to electric power, the problem is I have no idea what type of motor to use or what length prop tube or prop sahft is required, I don't have any drawings or information about the boat. I am presently cleaning and rubbing the panels down so that I can re glue most of the joints as thay are mostly starting to come loose.
Will post some more photos as I progress.
{"text":"HI all. This is an, RAF Fire Tender 32\" that was given to me 30+ years ago by a friend who was going to scrap it. it's been stored in my garage loft all this time. I am about to start the restoration of the boat but havn't done any modelling since I was a youngster.\r\nIt has no running gear but was originally powered by a nitro engine, I am hoping to convert it to electric power, the problem is I have no idea what type of motor to use or what length prop tube or prop sahft is required, I don't have any drawings or information about the boat. I am presently cleaning and rubbing the panels down so that I can re glue most of the joints as thay are mostly starting to come loose.\r\nWill post some more photos as I progress.","subject":"32\" RAF Fire Tender being restored by Salv Bambino","media":[{"id":"1256684892","name":"1256684892.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1256684892/l","thumbUrl":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1256684892/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1256684893","name":"1256684893.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1256684893/l","thumbUrl":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1256684893/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1256684894","name":"1256684894.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1256684894/l","thumbUrl":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1256684894/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1256684895","name":"1256684895.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1256684895/l","thumbUrl":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1256684895/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"}],"youtubeUrl":""}
32" RAF Fire Tender being restored by Salv Bambino
HI all. This is an, RAF Fire Tender 32" that was given to me 30+ years ago by a friend who was going to scrap it. it's been stored in my garage loft all this time. I am about to start the restoration of the boat but havn't done any modelling since I was a youngster.
It has no running gear but was originally powered by a nitro engine, I am hoping to convert it to electric power, the problem is I have no idea what type of motor to use or what length prop tube or prop sahft is required, I don't have any drawings or information about the boat. I am presently cleaning and rubbing the panels down so that I can re glue most of the joints as thay are mostly starting to come loose.
Will post some more photos as I progress.
Dave, I have removed the prop shaft because it was bent and the resin around the prop tube/hull was cracked it was also worn quite badly. I need to purchase a new tube and prop shaft once I decide what motor to fit, I can then decide on the length of prop shaft. Thanks for the info.
Dave, I have removed the prop shaft because it was bent and the resin around the prop tube/hull was cracked it was also worn quite badly. I need to purchase a new tube and prop shaft once I decide what motor to fit, I can then decide on the length of prop shaft. Thanks for the info.
HI Shambi, if you need a drawing or other info about the 34ins Fireboat I have plans and drawings etc that may help,if you need anything just get in touch with me via a message on the site, (Fireboat himself knows me well)Regards Pete D (Fireboatfunday Organiser)
HI Shambi, if you need a drawing or other info about the 34ins Fireboat I have plans and drawings etc that may help,if you need anything just get in touch with me via a message on the site, (Fireboat himself knows me well)Regards Pete D (Fireboatfunday Organiser)
This is my Aerokits Solent Class Lifeboat that was rescued from Ebay as a wreck see photo's 1 & 2. This was then lovingly restored for me by Gray (Froggyt996). First he had to skin one third of the hull as only two thirds had been skinned. He then had to use copious amounts of filler to make the hull its correct shape see photo 3, instead of the stepped hull as per the original Aerokits build. He then had to put the superstructure together as it had fell apart whilst being posted to us as it had been put together with a hot glue gun yuk!!!!!! Next started the painting as shown in photo 4. Please see my next post for the next stages of its rebuild.
Marie (alias Mrs Froggyt996)
{"text":"This is my Aerokits Solent Class Lifeboat that was rescued from Ebay as a wreck see photo's 1 & 2. This was then lovingly restored for me by Gray (Froggyt996). First he had to skin one third of the hull as only two thirds had been skinned. He then had to use copious amounts of filler to make the hull its correct shape see photo 3, instead of the stepped hull as per the original Aerokits build. He then had to put the superstructure together as it had fell apart whilst being posted to us as it had been put together with a hot glue gun yuk!!!!!! Next started the painting as shown in photo 4. Please see my next post for the next stages of its rebuild.\r\nMarie (alias Mrs Froggyt996)","subject":"Aerokits Solent Clas Lifeboat - Douglas Currie","media":[{"id":"1235223723","name":"1235223723.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1235223723/l","thumbUrl":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1235223723/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1235223724","name":"1235223724.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1235223724/l","thumbUrl":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1235223724/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1235223725","name":"1235223725.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1235223725/l","thumbUrl":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1235223725/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1235223726","name":"1235223726.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1235223726/l","thumbUrl":"https://beta.model-boats.com/media/1235223726/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"}],"youtubeUrl":""}
This is my Aerokits Solent Class Lifeboat that was rescued from Ebay as a wreck see photo's 1 & 2. This was then lovingly restored for me by Gray (Froggyt996). First he had to skin one third of the hull as only two thirds had been skinned. He then had to use copious amounts of filler to make the hull its correct shape see photo 3, instead of the stepped hull as per the original Aerokits build. He then had to put the superstructure together as it had fell apart whilst being posted to us as it had been put together with a hot glue gun yuk!!!!!! Next started the painting as shown in photo 4. Please see my next post for the next stages of its rebuild.
Marie (alias Mrs Froggyt996)
