Hi,
my preferred coating uses Eze-Kote made by Deluxe Materials. Used with glass cloth. Available from most good model shops or online.(www.deluxematerials.com/products)
I find it has advantages over polyester or fiber glass resins, as there is no noticeable odor and can be used in the house, which is good if you don't have a heated workshop. Hope this helps.

Hi
Thanks for this. Do you have any preference for any products?
Kind regards
Edward

Thanks for all your help. You have certainly given me plenty to be going on with!
Kind regards
Edward

I agree with all of the above but, to avoid confusion, I definitely think you want to get some epoxy on the outside of the hull before you paint- and any of the boat building systems would work. I'd also be inclined to put it on the inside before varnishing too. You are, in effect, encapsulating the boat in plastic- that is the point of epoxy in boatbuilding.

I have used West Systems epoxy successfully.You can get small two pack amounts at yacht chandlers. it helps to heat it gently with a hot air gun as you apply it.

I have found Z-Poxy sands more easily than West and this, believe me, is a consideration! Z-Poxy can be had from model suppliers like Cornwall Model Boats.

Have fun!

Just red through this, and agree with Dave as to source of paints and varnish, I have used a varnish called, Le Tonkinois Gold, Varnish. Have used on real clinker built boats, day boats, and Narrow boats, also I now use on all my model boats, and my wife's dolls house furniture and fittings and the results are stunning and long lasting. I hope this helps, Colin.

HI Edward
Sorry no I have not used the paints you propose, well not for some years - most of my recent models are fiberglass or plastic. I suggest you visit a good ships chandler to source both the varnish and paint for outside the hull. if its used on full size it should be good for the model. 😀

HI Dave

Thanks for the response. Do you have any suggestions as to actual products?

Regards

Edward

HI Edward
As you are intending to fit a steam power plant you will need to make sure the planks are well protected both from the inside and out. Ian's suggestion about sealing the plank joints should work and I assume you will be using a varnish that will stand up to the odd hot spillage and any escaping steam. Proper preparation of the outside of the hull with the correct primer and final coat should give you a good waterproof hull. A thorough wipe over after each sailing should keep everything OK and as this is fairly standard model steamer practice, shouldn't cause you any problem. Good luck with the project, please post some pics as you proceed. 😀

Hi,
No I haven't tried it on water yet, neither have I put any paint on the outside, its just bare wood at the moment. This is a model I want to get going after my current boat is finished, I am just gathering the bits together and thinking about my potential problems.
Thanks for everyones advice, it is appreciated.
Regards
Edward

Relying on a model hull to take up is a non-starter as far as I can see. Given that you wish to paint the outside of the hull I would take it back to bare wood, run a small fillet of thickened epoxy in the lands (but that may not be necessary) and finish with an epoxy like ZPoxy- two or three coats -wet and dry between each coat. You definitely want the boat to float with expensive gear on board!
This is just my opinion but I have built a full size epoxy plywood clinker hull and that was totally watertight- it's only solid wood, traditional boats that rely on taking up.
Have you tried the boat in the water? What happens? it may not be as bad as you think.
All the best...Ian

Hi,
The hull was bought on eBay and seems well made but I do not know what type of glue was used. I plan on painting the outside but would rather varnish the inside. I do not fancy soaking it with/in water every time I want to use it, especially with a stem engine and radio equipment on board!
Regards
Edward

I had a 12'clinker dinghy once and I agree they need to take up to be watertight (it didn't half leak whilst that was happening!) but wouldn't like to rely on this for a model. I take it we are talking about a model.

I think it would depend on where you are with the hull- building from scratch or re-furbishing an existing hull. if you can get to bare wood I would use an epoxy like ZPoxy which goes on well and sands nicely.Was the boat built with a waterproof glue like epoxy or alipahatic resin? it might be possible to run a fillet of slightly thickened epoxy into the plank lands- one additive looks like mahogany when mixed, I use it with ZPoxy as a glue and filler.
There is a finish made by Deluxe called EzeKote which I think is water based but I have no experience of this- others might have.

Let us know what you decide- all adds to the body of knowledge!

All the best...Ian

All clinker boats need to be wet to swell planking.This is mandatory !!! Wet hull inside or outside for days,even sink hull.
Clinker boats used on rivers only used to leak when first used at sea, but soon swelled to seal. Trust me.