Newbie
You will have to develop techniques that work best for you. One of the joys of modelling.....
Newbie
This question should bring out lots of people's favourite solutions!
Addressing warping is going to depend on a variety of things - what kind of wood, how bad the warp is, what caused it in the first place....
For 1/8" ply I don't usually wet it very much, since it might de- laminate. I just hold it in warm water for about 30 secs, and then clamp it in the opposite bend overnight. I might just wet the area of the warp. You want the wood to be able to dry out completely before you use it! Warps tend to return, but if the wood component is glued into position while still roughly straight, and held by other components in its correct position, it will usually stay there. Depending on the design...
If the component is 'free-standing' and not secured at each end, then I would start thinking about cutting a new piece. in particular I would be quite cautious with keel pieces, since these are critical for the boat shape, and you are unlikely to assemble a hull so swiftly that a keel warp has no chance to return before it is secured in position by other components....
Note that wetting wood causes it to swell, so you can bend wood back by expanding chosen sections. it also causes the fibres on the surface of the wood to stand up, so it may be rougher after wetting and need sanding down.
This swelling is particularly noticeable with balsa. if you hold a balsa construction together with pins you will end up with lots of pinholes in it, and a drop of water on each hole will cause it to close up in a matter of seconds. Very useful to do this before sealing!
Newbie
Soaking in water and then bending in reverse can help. in extreme cases you may wish to cut a new piece from better stock.
Getting the keel straight, for instance, is important....
Newbie
I will not put the boat in water at all, if anyone needs a motor 2 wire, for free ,let me know!!
Pat
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