Vic Smeed's 'Waterbaby'

Started by Xtal
11 replies 11 likes 0 followers Last activity: 8 years ago
#12

Vic Smeed's 'Waterbaby'

Luv it 😁😁👍
Young at heart 😉 Slightly older in other places.😊 Cheers Doug
#11

Vic Smeed's 'Waterbaby'

As the late Derek(Blaster)Bates said," Ex is something that has been" and "spurt is a drip under pressure"
Liked by RNinMunich
#10

Vic Smeed's 'Waterbaby'

Heartily agree Martin 👍
How does one become an 'expert'?
LEARNING BY DOING!!! 😉
Cheers, Doug 😎
As they say in this neck o the woods 'Übung macht den Meister' - 'Practice makes the master'!
Young at heart 😉 Slightly older in other places.😊 Cheers Doug
#9

Vic Smeed's 'Waterbaby'

You really need to be self reliant on these simpler tasks, rather than use a local "expert". There is no such thing as an expert on drilling keels! And if he suggests he is...avoid him!

Martin
Liked by RNinMunich
#8

Vic Smeed's 'Waterbaby'

You don't need an expert. Just go for it carefully yourself. Lead is easy to drill.Re internal ballast I would remove at least part of the deck to looksee.👍
Liked by RNinMunich
#7

Vic Smeed's 'Waterbaby'

Thanks for the advice. I have changed to a smaller battery and moved it fwrd (it is R/C). I have also tried to see if there is any internal ballast but that's not easy without removing the deck.
I think its time to drill the lead keel as suggested. I have found a local expert who says he will do the job! Will report on progress.
Many thanks.
John
#6

Vic Smeed's 'Waterbaby'

As Westie said don't use a Forstner it will take out too much at once. Use the 8 mm evenly both sides. Go gently.👍👍 Also see if any ballast has been added inside. This was often done to reduce heeling . it defeated it's own object as reducing the freeboard still put the lee rail under when heeling. Also what batteries are you using? A change to lighter ones may help. Lipos maybe but they may reduce duration.Nimhs may be a compromise. Or the ABC types All this assuming you are using R/c.
Liked by doghouse and RNinMunich
#5

Vic Smeed's 'Waterbaby'

Many thanks Martin.
#4

Vic Smeed's 'Waterbaby'

I think a Forstner cutter would be a bit vicious for lead and a bit big. Use say an 8mm drill and use a drill with a decent speed control. Start the holes by hand to ensure they go where you want. I would say start by drilling in the aft part of the keel as the boat appears to be arse down a bit. if there's any internal ballast , move it forrard.

Cheers,
Martin
Liked by hightide and RNinMunich and
#3

Vic Smeed's 'Waterbaby'

Many thanks for your helpful reply. The line between the wooden hull and the lead part of the keel is very clear so knowing where to drill will not be a problem. Do you think a fostner drill bit in a hand drill (slow speed) will be best for drilling lead. its something I've not done before so any advice would be much appreciated.
I will put some more pictures up hopefully tomorrow.
Liked by hightide
#2

Vic Smeed's 'Waterbaby'

More photos would help in particular the keel.
Can you identify which parts of the keel are lead? if you can then you could just drill holes into it (as close to rear as possible) to reduce its weight. Keep drilling and doing buoyancy tests until you are happy then leave it to dry out before filling the holes with car body filler.
Liked by hightide and Donnieboy
#1

Vic Smeed's 'Waterbaby'

I have a 'WaterBaby' 25" R/C Pond Yacht built to a 1950s designed by Vic Smeed. I'd like to hear from fellow 'Water Baby' owners.
One issue of interest is the keel weight which seems a little too heavy so the boat lies a little too low in the water. Has anyone made modifications to the keel? What is the best way to do this and how do you maintain good fore and aft trim?

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