Hull ready for rudder installation.

Just keeping switch inside...case is closed!

Hope your mind wasn't finished off Ron 😉
km's solution is not very scale though is it??
In essence Dave_M is correct that the toggle switches I depicted are not completely sealed. But the ball pivot of the toggle is nowhere near so open and vunerable as the long slot in a slide switch🤔
Sure there are fully sealed versions but be prepared to dig deeper in your pocket for them (watch out for the moths 😉😉)
Attached pics show toggle switches hidden under a hatch on the main deck of my destroyer. Hmm, must redo the legends!!
A drop of WD40 or machine oil now and again keeps the moisture out and they have done sterling work for 20 odd years now. Further advantages are that the contacts and wiper are self cleaning and can handle more current than a slide switch. 😉 Switches and monitoring /test sockets are mounted on an alu bracket fixed just under the main deck.
Cheers Doug 😎
PS: on my subs I use a standard slide switch for the RX, cos its mounted in a (hopefully😲) sealed pressure hull anyway 😊
Whatever, have fun. Cheers Doug 😎

Found this on net gives you an idea

I believe my mind gets the idea, but some photos would finish it off?

The other trick I have used in the past, works if toggle or slide switch.
Drill a 1mm hole in either the top of the toggle switch or through the middle of slider switch bend a "z" into one end of 1mm brass rod and feed through hole in switch . Drill hole large enough for bellows to fit where you wanted the switch to have been, feed the brass rod through the bellows and leave an inch or to sticking out and bend the end fully round to make a "o" shape and hey presto you have a pull for on and push for of switch with out removing the hatches every time.

The deck is looking good.
Nice job.Can't wait to see it finished.

New deck with Mahogany trim being sanded then multiple coats of Varathane clear finish.

I am putting the switch inside the hatch cover. Never realized the “switch” could be such a topic Starter. it seemed like an attractive alternative to opening up the hatch to turn off the boat, especially since its location was protected by the hatch roof and located at the back of the hatch.

I keep moisture wicking packs found in electronics packaging, in the hull of my boats.

You can get very robust and waterproof toggle switches from companies that make underwater torches for divers. I have never had any trouble with them because of leakage or rusting. Try Birchley Products at http://www.birchleyproducts.co.uk/

Doug
This switch is also open to the elements. I agree it is a better switch than the slide version but will suffer the same fate on a model yacht in an exposed position.

Final comment on the switch!! I mentioned above that I prefer to use miniature toggle switches, here is a typical example, good for 3A some versions 5A, plenty enough for the RX and a few servos, and only 12.5 x 7 x 9.5mm, mounting hole 6.6mm. Cost approx 1Euro over here. Available in any good component shop. For the main power I use larger versions often with built in LED indicator, as can be seen in the attached pic of my new Sea Scout installation. Cheers Doug 😎

Hi Ron, OK. I'll start a new thread shortly. Photos only though at the moment - unless I re-enact the Nautilus trip under the North Pole!! 😉
AKULA II kit only arrived yesterday from Alexander Engel 'The U-Boat Shop', 5 days from order to delivery - German efficiency! More info in new thread (Photo Gallery?) shortly. Cheers Doug 😎

Love to see photos or videos of the subs!

Agree km👍, I do the same with the sealing rings for my subs; Type 1A U-Boat and AKULA II nuclear. But not for switches!
Some greases also attack rubber seals, so if you do use a grease make sure it's silicon based folks!!
(PS or use neoprene seals like in cars and such😉) Cheers Doug 😎

I find a rub of vaseline around the hatches before sailing helps keep the water at bay and it's cheaper than grease

Ron
The switch is designed for internal usage. The rubber boot does provide some protection but at the end of the day you have an electrical switch that will be subjected to electrical reaction between the copper, metal case and water (saline will react very quickly). The slightest damp usually results in the copper in the black wire and whatever it is connected to going black. it no longer works as a conductor and has to be replaced in total.

You could mount the switch in side the cabin and use a short length of wire to push pull from outside. Some slide switches have a hole in the switch knob for this purpose. We often used this with model aircraft and it works well with model boats.

Doug's solution may help delay the process but the end result is inevitable and in my experience the black wire syndrome usually manifests itself when the model is sailing.

and a good blast of Switch Cleaner / Lubricant into the switch case past the slider and waggle the slider to clean and distribute the lubricant👍

How about thin layer of silicon either on outside over cover plate, or inside betwwen switch and hatch wall?

I heartily agree Dave, 👍
even with a boot' they can suffer from water 'creep' and condensation which quickly rusts the cheap contacts. I prefer to use miniature sealed toggle switches. Often hidden in an equipment / ammo locker 😉
Cheers Doug 😎

Hi Ron
In my experience you are going to need a rubber boot protector over the slide switch. All yachts get wet when sailing and slide switches are very vulnerable to damp.
Model looking good and should be ready to sail when your lakes thaw!
Dave

Latest upgrades. Placed a couple magnets at the front of hatch; secured on/off switch at rear of hatch; Ewald and Fred are deciding how to finish the new deck, keep it clear coated show I gotta the wood grain, or seal it and paint it?