PS To give up now would be a great shame and waste of all the effort, materials and time you already put into building the framework 🤔

To make it easier, especially if you plan to later strengthen the planking with glass fibre (highly recommended unless building a klinker built boat or vintage yacht), use very thin flexible planks or strip. I used 0.5mm 3ply on my destroyer. This is then still stiff enough to give you the hull form you want but not too difficult to bend to shape. For extreme curves steam it to make it more flexible. The kitchen tea kettle is enough for this. ;-)
Use clamps rather than pins or small nails and don't try to do too many planks at once! Patience is a virtue, especially in model building 😉
Glue and clamp the planks on the relatively straight sections first. I used waterproof white woodworking glue without problems. it gives you time for adjustments and remains flexible when set, which epoxy does not! Then when the glue is set, the next day or whenever time or the 'other half' allows 😉 glue and clamp the curved sections (bow and stern).

The tip above to make trial templates from thin card, e.g. cereal packets or similar, is also worth it's weight in gold! Just make sure that the card is not so thin that it straightens out the curves! Otherwise your wood planks cut to these templates will be too short 😭
Planking is not really so difficult, it just needs time and patience 😎
These days you can also buy inexpensive plank cutters these days. Mostly used for cutting deck equal width planks but maybe useful for hull planking!?
Please post a pic of the framework so far so we can see how far you've got and what the hull form looks like.
Cheers from Munich 😎

Don't give up! My Dad always told me to "practice the hard parts!"
Worked for me😉 For a tug, after planking I would sand to shape and then put a couple of layers of fibre glass tissue on. if you put the tissue on in strips with about 1/8th inch overlap you get a pretty good approximation of the plating. Before applying the tissue brush a thin resin mix into the wood (along the grain) so it soaks in and hardens and water proofs the wood.
Worked for my 1:72 scale destroyer, never a problem with leaks 😎

It isn't exactly easy, no. You need to put some effort in and then it's pretty obvious. Cornflake packets are great pattern material. Cut a plank and work out the shape, then transfer to the model in wood. Very satisfying, but I thought most tugs were metal rather than wooden.

Martin

Thank you both for your informative replies I am completely baffelled by it all and cannot understand how some people say it is easy I thin I will have to give up and get a fibre glass hull

Still one of the best reference works for planking a model boat/ship apart from all the other wonderful stuff it covers is a book in 2 volumes called Plank on Frame Models by Harold Underhill. Check Amazon or Abebooks for second hand copies. And stock up with comfy chairs and coffee for when you read them from cover to cover. They date from when people made stuff with very little in the way of fancy equipment. Superb pen drawings of everything from framing and planking to rigging.

Cheers,
Martin

Hi Dave
start at the keel and work up, alternately adding planks port / starboard to minimise /avoid twisting the keel. 😲
Due to tug rounded bow and stern shape these are probably best (and easiest 😉) done with carved blocks.
Good luck. Post some pics 👍