milliput washes off with little problem usually your finished before it sets so clean up is not a problem.

I was not particularly concerned with allergies I use them to stop the stuff sticking to fingers.

With epoxy you can develop an allergy so if your intending to use milliput a lot then yes gloves are a must BUT for the small amounts we use I don't see the point.

True using gloves will do no harm but I have used milliput without gloves for more than 10 years and have no allergy effects.

This may be obvious so forgive me, I advise the use of disposable surgical type gloves when mixing/moulding milliput

agreed it is very versatile

Its also good for making mods to items. I have used it to repair ceramic figures ( cheap ones ). The tabletop wargame people use it to mod their figures. I know I sound like someone who sells it BUT honestly I am just a person who has used it for a few years and keep finding new uses for the stuff.

With many things mixing is of paramount importance! I recommend making two worms 1 of each colour press them together then twist as though winding a rubber band. Roll it flat fold end to end make it into a worm and repeat!

When the mix gets sticky you know its about right. if your filling around a propshaft try to get something on the inside so the filler has something to push against and form a seal front AND back "key" ( roughen ) the metal shaft so the milliput has something to grab.

if all of this is teaching granny egg sucking sorry but better to give data you know than not give data you don't.

Remove all Bondo before using Milliput. Great stuff used it for years
John

Hi Mark
Thanks now I have an understanding on how to work with milliput!
Looking at my new kit there's area's I know will have to be milliputted,
the instructions call for the use of Bondo which is a two part agent but it's not water proof!
I found this out the hard way, I used bondo on Tug Serenities skeg, and the Skeg keeps on clacking!
This is why I choose milliput!

Ed

Thats right Ed, once it is an even colour, no streaks, push it into position like using window putty, smooth it into shape with a wet finger, when dry, 24 hours, sand down to final shape, any dings or hollows re-apply, I sand mine with 600grit wet and dry used wet, not sure what it is called in the states, final smooth sand with 1000grit again wet

Mark

Hi Haverlock
Thanks for the input again!
I just received my model Push Boat and I was also waiting for the milliput,
which I revived in the post!
By mold I take it you mean mush together two equal parts of the milliput,
until it uniformed in color and sticky, Right!

Ed

mould the 2 parts together until the mix gets "sticky" then use it no worries about speed it sets fairly slowly. Wet tools smooth it out and once set, leave for 24 hours, scraping with a scalpel blade is as good a tool as any to shape it.

After that sand with fine ( I use wet and dry (wet)) abrasive paper and if happy paint as required. Any hollows can be filled with a little more since it sticks to itself.

The only thing its useless for is as a thin layer sticking 2 parts together.

it is specified as safe in drinking water tanks ( and I have seen it used in a tropical marine fish tank).

You may well gather I am a fan!!!!!!!!

Hi Haverlock

Thanks for the info and the advise, I really appriciate it!
i'm about to receive my milliput in about a day or so!
it's good to read that it's easily moldable.
I take it's a breeze for cleanups I hope!
Anyway sounds like a good product to work with!

Ed

When your smoothing it out use a WET finger knife etc. it produces a good finish with minimum effort.

To give you an idea I have used milliput to fill and fix a house radiator I put a hole in ( don't ask) without draining the radiator. it will set underwater.

I is specified as a repair medium for UPVC .

Hi Jarvo
Hi Haverlock

Gentleman thank you,
As I mentioned i'm not familiar with milliput but I've read about it in one of my catalogs, I ordered a tube of the stuff!
I'm glad to read that I can use it around the prop shafts as i'm going to be working on a twin screw push boat!
I'd like to make where the prop shafts exits the hull look as neat as possible, also use it as a filler from what I've read!

Ed

Milliput comes on colours white is the superfine and despite being slightly more expensive its the one I tend to use.

its great stuff if used for the right things, as a filler its great, it also is good for making mods to parts.

To fill around a prop shaft it works!

Hi ed, Milliput is a 2 part epoxy filler, mix it carefully, no streaks, and a uniform colour, put it round the shaft on the inside and out, flair it into the right shape, don't leave it to thick, remember it will need to be sanded down, if needs be add another layer. Drys hard so is good and firm when you run the boat, just remembered roughen the edges around the hole just gives the filler a slight key,
You mention prop exits, do you meen the tube leaving the hull (see above) if its the shaft, use a little light oil in the tube as lube as well as a sealant, top up after every sailing.
Mark