HI Glyn

The stuff I use is from easycomposites.co.uk, great web site with vidio help etc, the glass cloth and the epoxy is all on there, if your in stoke pick it up or they send it.

Regards

Mark

HI Mark,

Hope you enjoyed your break. The boat was great this Sunday, planed nicely and was very responsive to the controls. The crack is minor, where the skins meet on the keel, not deep and the joins behind the crack are robustly glued, with resin brushed over top.

When you say use epoxy, is that epoxy resin, or is there an epoxy varnish?

Regards Glyn

HI Glyn

Sorry for slow reply, just back from weekend away.

Covering the hull in a nylon stocking is great, put on with epoxy, flat the paint before you apply.

You say there is a hairline crack, is it deep??? could it be the hull moving after a shunt like with a pond wall etc????

Would sugest light weight glass cloth and epoxy, much stronger and more able to bridge the crack

Mark

HI Mark,

Does your method of covering hull with nylon and varnish work on Painted surface (IE acrylic paint)? I found a hairline crack running down the bow, although it does not leak into boat I would feel better if it was Sealed over.

Regards Glyn

HI Mark,

Prop stayed on OK but will be adding thread lock as you suggested. Boat took a real hammering on the rough water but only took 1 thimble full of water in half an hour of boating hell. Hard to say if the boat planed or not, the water was so rough and the wind was very strong. Found that I had the Set the rudder up wrong and had the motor terminals round wrong way that caused a collision with the concrete wall on multiple occasions. Boat is slightly damaged, will have to repair paint on bow. On my next build I will take on board your suggestion to cover hull with nylons and varnish or even Fine glass matt and resin.

Going to try again this coming Sunday, hope its better than this Monday was. ( PS ) having trouble uploading pics.

Regards Glyn

HI Glyn

This might be a bit late but add a drop of thread lock to the prop, also make sure the locknut is tight.

If the weather was as bad down your end you may not have sailed the boat.

Dont forget post some pics

Mark

HI Mark,

Ready to launch this sunday if nothing goes wrong, Everything responds to the transmitter OK
I just hope that the propshaft nuts are tight enough to prevent losing prop. How do I tell if prop is turning right way? The motor turns clockwise as viewed from the propshaft.

I must thank you mark and all the other members who have offered advise and solutions that have helped me to complete this build.

Regards Glyn

HI Glyn

Motor set up ok, its the right way round!!!! good that the push rods are ok, just need your ESC wired in and your good to go

Regards

Mark

Thanks Mark,

Checked pushrods and OK, info on Motor noted, thanks.

Thanks Paul,

Will attempt to upload pics. hope they work this time.

Regards Glyn

HI Glyn,

not sure what you mean, if you intend to attach the propshaft to the end of the motor that is not secured to the mount, it will vibrate far too much. Also, I have never seen a brushed motor with enough shaft coming out of the rear of the can to attach the shaft? are you sure with what you are saying here.

When attached, I assume you are using a plastic uj between shaft and motor, this needs to be as perfectly straight as possible, assuming you do not have anything to line it up.
I cannot open the pic you posted in previous post, so cant coment on that, but a pic of your motor problem will help

Paul

HI again

Just read your post about your servo pushrods, make sure they are identical in lenght or they will put strain on the servo gears and drain the battery quickly, if this is difficult, just use one pushrod, check when its moving that it does not flex, if it does, use thicker wire.

REgards

Mark

HI Glyn

Dosnt matter which end of the motor you use, just remember the correct rotation of the prop

Regards

Mark

HI Folk,

Does it matter which end of the motor is used to drive the Prop shaft? I cannot get at the end bolts that hold the motor to its frame unless I turn the motor around.

Regards Glyn

HI hutchinson,

First time I have fitted servo so I hope I've done it right. Please see pic. I know that I need to cut the spare rod that overhangs on the rudder end, but have I done right in having 2 rods on servo 1 push 1 pull, or is 1 sufficient?

Regards Glyn

Be careful that you can access the servo for the rudder easily,if the rod comes adrift from the coupling you need to get at it easily.

HI Mark,

Thanks for response, I have not fitted motor yet but will do so now. I am having trouble finding a drill bit long enough to do the job without the drill fouling the paintwork. I can however get on with the rudder.

Many thanks, Glyn

HI Glyn

Most of the bits you mention are plug and play, I take it the motor is mounted, fit leads to the motor, long enough toreach the motor with about 2" extra, next decide were your ESC will fit, keep the power leads and the radio leads separate, then decide were to fit the reciever and plug in the ESC to the drive battery and test that all is working, an on/off switch in the power lead to the battery is a good idea.

The arkward part is fitting the servo for the rudder, it can be fitted close to the the rudder with a short pushrod, needing an extention to the servo lead, or fitted closer to the receiver and a longer pushrod.

Once you have decided which way to go it is just a fitting excercise. Sound easy, decide were the components will go then fit the wireing and pushrod.

Hope this is a help, if your still unsure give me a shout and will help out

Regards

Mark

HI Guys,

Well I have got to the dreaded part (for me) the electrics. I need to know how each componant relates to each other. think I understand the rudder assemble up to the circuit then I am in new territory. I will list all parts and ask that I can benefit from the knowledge in this forum. The engine is the MFA 850 brushed, the Servo is the Futaba S3003, The ESC is the Brushed Marine ESC-50 with reverse. The R/C set is the Planet T5 transmitter and reciever. I have trawled the site for info on circuitry and setup but do not feel confident on my present understanding.

Thanks and regards Glyn

HI Folk,

Got some milder weather at last so got on with some painting. Just got to paint bottom of boat blue then onto the electrics. I will definitely need some guidance there.

Regards Glyn

HI Den,

I never thought to lay battery on its side. Of course lower centre of gravity. Thanks for that idea. Milder weather coming maybe finish the painting.

Regards Glyn

HI Restin,

Just a quick note...when doing your battery tray put it across the boat ..not length ways,this should sit tight against the rib forming one side of the tray and lay the battery down on its side. Good luck, look forward to seeing it finished.

Regards Den

HI Dennis,

Thanks for confirmation on battery position, will go ahead and make a battery tray. Have applied more paint, its a case of warming the shed up and painting between showers as excessive damp blooms the finish. Thanks Mark for your last post I forgot to put your name on reply.

Regards Glyn

HI Restin,
Sorry for the delay in responding..been away for a few days.
Yes the battery sits under the the two side seats, please keep me posted on the launch, any further info you require....give me a call.

Found the answer to free joints glued with titebond3, I used our steam wallpaper stripper and fitted a small nozzle so the steam was concentrated where I wanted it. it did the job so well that restoration jobs will be a tad easier.

Regards Glyn

HI Dennis, Thanks for your post, does your battery sit under the seats of the open cockpit? I saw One that was positioned there and it sat well in the water. The Huntsman is a lovely design, I'm looking forward to the launch.

Regards Glyn

HI Restin, I to have the Huntsman the same size with a 850 MFA running from a 20amh 12v jell battery and it go's well. Position the battery correctly and this takes care of any ballast. Sits in the water at the right depth and angle and planes at the real speed.................awesome on the lake.

oops, I forgot the Pic.

I have got the boat in white primer now and will wait for a warmer day to wet flat and apply top coats. (see pic)

I have a restoration job in mind and was wondering if glued joints can be separated. The glue is Titebond 111 ultimate.

Think I read someware that steam can help with some glues. Hope it workes with Titebond.

HI Glyn

The coloures of your photo is the same as mine, they were the Ford racing coloures back in the sixtys for the racing team, a lot of the surviving huntsmen are these coloures, spray thin, sand using very fine wet and dry, 600 wet, 3 or 4 coats will give you a superb finish.

Have you seeled the wood of the cabin area??? if not do, because trying to fill the grain with paint is very expensive.

Good luck, keep your spray area warm and wear a good mask.

Mark

HI Alan & Mark,

Thank you for your replies. I have no bath just a wet room and bless her she won't let me fill it. Will have to use lake.

I sealed the inside with resin it worked like a charm, it stiffened the hull and strengthened the joins. I used filler primer on the exterior and have wet flatted it ready for primer. All the paint has been purchased from Halfords and I now should own shares in the firm, the colours are Royal blue and white. (" see File")
Good idea the tights but to hard work for my health. Will have to be careful how I drive it.

I got hold of The complete set of plans for the Sea Queen 46 inch version From ebay so I should be busy for some time.

Regards Glyn

HI Glyn

First thing well done for getting this far, stop doughting your self, it will work!!!!!

Before you start fitting the motor etc, have you put a coat or two of varnish, paint etc on the inside of the hull, this will act as a sealent for possible gaps, it might show on the outer hull, need for a bit of filler etc,

Next, do you want to put stiffening on the outside under the paint???? 2 or 3 layers of ladies tights put on with thined varnish and sanded between coats, this will give some protection from hitting the lakeside or ducks!!!!

Then the final colour finish, what do you fancy??? I use car areosols colour your choice.

Still some work and decicions to make.

Mark

Perhaps your best bet Glyn, once the hull is painted is to get the boat in the bath, then you can position that big battery so that the boat sits right in the water.
Not sure if that motor is going to get the boat up on the plane, hope I am wrong. Think I would have gone for two big brushless out runners and lipo's to keep the weight down, its a big heavy boat.

Alan

HI Folk,

As I have started painting boat I thought that maybe this would be a good time to get my head around fitting all the R/C and motor parts and where to fit them.

The parts are 1 MFA torpedo 850 motor, 1 Futaba S3003, marine brushed ESC-50, 1 rudder, push rods, and 1 very heavy L/A Battery. This is my first entry to R/C so I need to know how each part relates to the others. Obviously common sense tells me about some procedure like position of rudder and motor as they are shown on the plans. The rest I am unsure about.

Regards Glyn

Hi,

Solved the windshield problem by using TV cable for top of windshield, and for the rest I used PC white SATA cable around the base of shield and the frames. Waiting now for opportunity to paint hull and cabin.

Regards Glyn

HI pmdevlin,

If the boat planes and looks like a huntsman under way, then I would be happy. I live in Norwich and have a fine boating/sailing lake at Eaton Park. I welcome your input because I have lost touch with modern systems for model craft. My last boat was the Sea Queen about 40 to 50 years ago and that had a twin Taplin diesel as I recall.

Regards Glyn

yeah pic uploaded fine, I didn't know they came in the bigger size of 4 foot, its a Fairey Huntsman 31. Regarding your questions about performance, it depends what you want really. More speed is less run time. Reading your posts I doubt you want the sort of performance that I get out of my Huntsman 28, more a scale speed?

Lead acid batteries wont give up much speed, and they are heavy, you need to run with nimhs or lipos. The latter need specific chargers and more care and attention, nimhs you can run until flat. Where are you located by the way?

HI folk,

Yes its a Precedent from Anglian Model Products although I purchased it from Cornwall Model Boats. if the picture uploaded OK you will see the cramped work area in my computer room. Thanks for that thought Mark I will try the local model train shop for the rail.

Regards Glyn

glyn have you got any pics of your huntsman. is it a cabin at rear or open. Im wondering if its a precedent being 4 foot long, have a look in my harbour is it the same as mine?
paul

HI Glyn

Just realized that yours is the 46". The insulation idea might be to small, if you can try the N Guage piece of rail might be more in scale and will harden the top of the screen from casual damage.

Regards

Mark

HI Mark,

Thanks for those ideas, the insulation sounds promising.
This forum is a mine of info, its good to talk to others with similar interests.

Regards Glyn

HI Glyn

Do you meen the frame around the windscreen??? if so I have several ways of doing it
1 using N guage model rail bent and soldered to fit, capped with a thin wood cap strip.
2 using the insulation from electrical wiring split down the middle and slotted over the screen
3 capping strip I got mine from kingston mouldings
4 self adhesive strip used for car detailing

Must be other ways, interested how others have do it!!!

Mark

HI Mark,

I noticed that the pics of the huntsman model have frames around the open cockpit windshields. As this is not included in the kit I wondered how this was achieved? it looks like it could be tape.

Regards Glyn.

HI Mark,

sorry for mix up, I read so many blogs and inputs that I mistook you for for the designer. Put it down to my age.

Regards Glyn

HI Glyn

Dont know how you got the idea that I designed the Huntsman, wish I had, not for the money but for such a beautifull design.

The Graupner gearbox is available from scale models in skelmersdale, they advertise in model boats and on ebay

Mark

HI Mark,

That is interesting, I did not know that it is possible to feed 1 prop from 2 motors. I will give the 850 a chance, as long as it performs in the same manner as the full size craft I will be satisfied. I noticed from your previous posts that you designed the huntsman, it must be good for you to see the continuing interest in the model. in my younger days I used to build boats at Wroxham Windboats and worked on Glass Fibre, wood and concrete boats. Those were the days.

Regards and thanks Glyn

HI Glyn

That motor and prop should see it movee pretty quick but try a big brushless motor before you go to twin shafts,

An alternative might be use a Graupner type gearbox with twin motors on one shaft!!!!!

My Huntsman 34" has two 600 johnson motors through a single shaft, effluent and shiny shovels come to mind, but battery power is about 15 minutes.

Mark

HI Mark,

I have a 50mm Prop 2 blade. So I feel more confident with your words of wisdom. if the motor does not cut the mustard maybe twin 850's will be the way to go. Would be a drain on the power unit though. Just got the paint and varnish to do now. May have to wait for better weather as her who must be obeyed is frowning upon indoor spraying.

Regards and thanks Glyn

HI Glyn

Nice to see you are ready to give your boat its first launch, the 850 motor is a powerfull beast, quite high reving so dont put to big a prop on, 40 - 50mm 2 blade, possibly an x40, it will be a bit suckit and see.

Mark

Hi,

The build is nearly finished, and having been reading what others have powered thier huntsman with, I maybe should not have bought the MFA 850. Does anyone know if the boat will plane with this engine. I have a lead acid power unit and its very heavy.

Regards Glyn

HI Mark,

Thanks for that info, I have been off the scene for long enough to lose touch with things. My Huntsman is all timber 46 inch and is looking good now. Looking forward to the next part of the build. I have all the running gear. it will be powered by a Torpedo 850, R/C is new to me so I will have my work cut out to set it all up.

Thanks for your very kind help Mark.

Regards Glyn