HI Peter

Totally agree, my concern was with the foam reacting with the dope

Mark

Whoops only enter post once so no idea why two have appeared. (Now been corrected I see). Ian's right forgotten foam, but agree with him re exterior use and his talc tip.
If foam has not been installed you may get away with doping interior, but let it dry before using expanding foam, possible with a coat of varnish to act as cushion between foam and dope.

HI Ian

Not sure what effect the dope would have on the expanding foam, it certainly eats polystyrene. if its still good, use it on the outside of the hull away from the foam, mix a little talc with it and it makes a superb sanding sealer over the wood grain.

I would still use epoxy in the bow area as thats were you tend to hit things, pond side, other boats etc.

Mark

Ok, thanks both for the tip about the expanding foam, I'll do that. I was wondering about sealing the interior with resin as you suggest. From my aeromodelling days, I still have an unopened pint tin of cellulose dope. Assuming it hasn't all dried up when I open it, could that be used as an internal waterproof sealer?

Ian

As Ian says it does expand, to 2 to 3 times it size, so don't try to fill space totally, be warned use it sparingly and what ever you do, don't try to stop it swelling out of the space with your fingers as one of our maintenance guys did, even wire wool won't remove it, leave it 24 hours and cut of any excess 😉 . You can pick it up at Wilkinson, & sometimes Lidl or Aldi.

Ian

If you can still get at the bow area, fill it with polystyrene packing foam. if its to late, do you know a builder? if he has used some spray sealing foam and has a bit left in the can, drill holes in the bulkhead and squirt the foam in. it will expand so don't seal the bulkhead again, let it settle, possibly 24 hours.

If you seal the inside of the bows with resin before putting the foam in, even better, this will double the sealing and give buoyancy as well.

Mark

Thanks for the suggestions.

Well, a bit more progress to report. I used the T pins I already had, they easily pushed through the plywood skin, but I used a big pair of pliers to push them further in to hold. Most of them were badly bent, but held whilst the Titebond 3 dried. Once I'd trimmed the plywood skins to fit, bending them wasn't as much of a problem as I'd expected.

Looking at the model now, I see that right at the front (the bow) , once I've fitted the top decking, there is going to be effectively a sealed compartment. So if it does leak slightly at the front, presumably that section fills with water and bad things happen??!! is it best to allow all parts to be easily drained, or try and seal it up as best as I can?

Ian

Thanks Mark, didn't know about the meths, could come in handy that tip 👍

Alan

HI Alan

The only problem with 5 min or 10 min epoxy is that it is brittle, compared with long set 1hour / 24 hour, the longer it takes to set the stronger the molecular bond. (what words for a saturday!!!!!)

That said so long as the epoxy is not subject to vibration, motor mount etc its good to go.

Just as an add-on, if you wand your epoxy to be runny, add a small amount of meths, it also slows the setting time, while the meths evaporates.

Mark

Pound shop, my favourite model shop 😁 😁 epoxy is really good, sets in 10 mins

Alan

You'll may see my Brother Dave, Yacht Secretary, there 3 times a week regularly. 😎

HI Pete

See you down at the lake sometime soon. Amsterdam is now in the water, next job is the referb of her sister ship Tenace

Mark

Didn't realise there was so many Ethrow boat club members on site, have had to curtail my visit this year due to family health issues, but keeping busy re-fitting and up dating my fleet of models, hope to hit those water again soon. See you there, Pete

HI Ian

This sounds like its a modern copy of the old kit, good, it means its got some decent ply in it. Pin pushers are used by the model railway boys for there track pins. if your model shop has them get the pusher and track pins, they are smaller than panel pins, but with a fairly large head, easy to remove when the glue is set, Peter47 has the right idea, pound shops have some epoxy in a syringe dispenser, they also have PVA and other useful tools etc.

Mark

A few ideas either use glue you have, or two part epoxy, or a good waterproof wood glue (used this method with a fair few models), but remember before placing it in the old h2o, seal joints and exterior well with a coat or three of varnish, possibly run some resin around inside of hull as well, but saying that I have a very old Vosper 72' MTB, 1/24 scratch built in balsa, tissue covered and doped, still going strong. On this I mainly left interior unsealed, just remove any moisture at end of session, if any then leave hatches off let it air dry, so far no rot or swelling. One more thing £ shops are a great source for good cheap adhesives, paints, crew (use your Imagination) and lubricants 😎

Mark and Peter,
Thanks very much for your suggestions. I bought the kit from a shop down in Poole, Dorset. Just came as a bag of lazer cut ply with some strips of balsa, a plan, plus some stapled together sheets of instructions. Maybe it was a poor choice for a first model, because I'm finding the instructions a bit tricky. it's probably just me being a bit thick.

I'll have a go at trying to push some pins through a ply offcut. I have some of the 'T' shaped pins left from my aeromodelling days of many moons ago, but I suspect they won't be 'man enough' for the job. Not come across a pin-pusher before, but I can see how a tool to guide the pins would be a good thing.

The shop recommended I glue the thing together with a product called Titebond 3, I've used it exclusively so far, but not sure its going to be suitable for the hull skins? On the side of the container it says -- not to be used below the waterline -- so don't know about that.

regards
Ian

Mark could be right with his suggestion especially if it is the original kit, in my skinning of my model of HMS Princess Beatrix I went with pre-soaking method, then clamping to frames to dry over night, only them glueing now shaped sides, did same for its funnel which is a virtually "U" shape.
Any way good luck with your model.
yours Peter

HI Ian

Is this an original aerokits sea scout? if so be careful that the ply doesn't split and delaminate.

First get some fine panel pins or strong dress making pins, you will need a pin pusher, also some small spring clamps, (if your brave nick the pegs from the washing line) dry fit the panels, when happy steam one panel and glue and clamp / pin that panel into place, leave it to set, preferably over night, carefully remove the clamps and pins this should give you one complete side fitted, repeat for the other side, warning, don't leave one side till next week etc as it will cause the hull to warp, do both sides quickly.
Practice before you commit to the fitting stage, have all the bits you need to hand.

Regards

Mark