Ha ha that's the one!

Prop Shop.

Chris

Yes I experimented with a load of props, x, s two blade, 3 blade, and so on. Using data logging by eagle tree I was able to compare actual results, run time, amp draw, speed and so on. The x 2 blades where very good, I think the best size was 52mm, but that cleaver prop was specially commissioned by Simon, gosh cannot remember the company name! But he makes brass props. At the time he had some props in development and used me to try a few. The design of the blades gives it more push and less cavitation, and it looks nice! I sent him all the data. I can also change the gear ratio as its belt driven to suit the lake I was running on, fast acceleration and lower top speed on a small lake, a d better top speed on a big lake. I love the meddling and testing. A single screw v shape very heavy hull single screw will reach a point that it's reached its maximum speed, I got there with this boat!👍

Do you only use the three bladded props? Your brass prop does look a little aggressive with it's pitch. I found using two bladded props and taking several different size props and swapping until I got the response that I wanted. I took the standard props as well as the ones marked with the s on them as they used to give a better response and speed as they are the sport props. I liked to play about with different props just for the fun of it. I have a bag of assorted different sized ones. This once again is just a suggestion NOT a criticism.

I see you say that the boat want's to roll over. I used t0 get that on my Huntsman and my Spearfish. Someone told me that if I trimmed the rudder front leading edge off up to the down shaft and then round the bottom of the leading edge, that this would stop it from digging on the turns and wanting to roll over. I tried it and it did work. From then on I have done it on every model boat I have built. This is just a tip you could try. I am not criticizing your build at all so I hope that you do NOT take offence to my suggestion. Happy modelling and boating 👍

Hi,

I don't come here very often these days, picking this thread up a bit cold, attached is a pic of my prop, its called a cleaver. I tried many props, I like meddling, better than just sailing. I had an onboard data logger that measured amp draw and gps speed. Propguy helped me a lot and is worth a call if he still trades, I always said I would convert this boat to twin screw but never got round to it. When reaching max speed which was 25mph, the hull gets very unstable, as it want to roll over! Its a veron Huntsman 28, 4 foot long

Yes, thanks Alessandro.

As is often the case there is no right or wrong answer just choices. For sports cruisers a 3 blade prop is ideal as it gives plenty of shove and enough speed for planing boats. As I said 2 blade props are used but as alluded to they tend to be better suited to high speed and racing boats but sometimes they do use 3!

I've never heard or seen anyone using a 4 blade in a Fairey.

Hi Wez, not having experience with fast speedboats I would also have taken ChrisF's opinion into consideration.
I have seen how his opinions and advice are always thoughtful and well-reasoned, but above all based on direct experiences.
Often practice in RC naval modeling is more useful than theory, because in scale models some effects are greater and others diminish, you don't get the responses you expect.

Without prejudice to your choice, just for a chat, I'll tell you that (all other parameters being equal: diameter, pitch, shape of the blades, materials) the more the number of blades increases, the more the speed decreases, but there is more stability (less vibrations), the more the number of blades decreases and the faster but more unstable the propeller.

If you are interested in the propeller, we talked about it in the following topics:
https://model-boats.com/forum/1353777
https://model-boats.com/wiki/137058

Thanks everyone was going to get 3 bladed prop anyway as the Vosper had 4 bladed prop and was a little smaller than the 47 huntsman I know a few have put 4 bladed but was making sure I was choosing the right prop and 3 it is from howes models as need to get the 18 in shaft and coupling as well so I can get that fixed I place to get the bottom re painted

Maybe this picture would be of help?

As Boatshed says 4 bladed props aren't generally used on fast planing boats and infact I've heard of serious cavitation occurring if used with them.

2 and 3 bladed are used (my 47" Huntsman came with a 2 bladed plastic one) but I much prefer 3 bladed brass/bronze ones as they just look so good!

Also, and whilst most of us don't build our Faireys to true scale in that we only have one prop shaft instead of two the full-sized boats have 3 bladed props so its a no-brainer for me! The only one of my Faireys with a 2 bladed prop is my Huntress fitted with a stern-drive and that prop is plastic.

As regards your mention of LiPo batteries earlier, yes, they can get very expensive! Especially the higher voltage and capacity ones. There's a few quids worth in a model if you add up the cost of the brushless motor, ESC and LiPo battery.

Chris

I cannot see that up to now you haven't had any replies about what type of propellor to use?
I may be wrong and I would think that someone will put me correct. Four bladded propellors I would think would be used on Navy ships like Destroyers. Aircraft Carriers and Tugs and Ocean Cruisers. I have a Aerokit's Huntsman and I have used a three bladded brass propellor but I had better performance with two bladded props but the sport type like 45s and 50s,
I all way's used to take a few prop's and take a few runs swapping props to see which one I got better performance with, by just going up and down in seizes.
I hope this explanation might just be a little bit of help or someone else might help you out.
Happy boating with your fab looking Huntsman.

Thanks Mike I’m doing the best I can without being too picky as I know a few like to make everything but my arthritis in my hands make it very hard so not everything is perfect but I’m happy so far

Yep on the left it is

The enclosed picture is from the official brochure. The position of the helm is rather clear, isn't it?
Cheers, nice built!

Hello Wez!
What a great job, I'm always amazed at the intricate work you all do!
Sometimes I get a bit envious, but if I pinch myself I'll soon be able to keep up!!!
well done,
Michel-C

Just my only dilemma if it is one is here we go 3 or 4 blade prop I’ve got a good idea which will be picked but unsure it’s just when you get different ideas off different sites it gets a bit confusing on it being the best for my boat I know 3 blade prop from howes models I’ve had before and was going to get the same my Vosper had as it did a good job of cruising and not warp speed like most of my club members like think I’ve found the motor Chris thunder tiger on Pegasus models gives a list of what other people bought with the 47 kit I saw the batteries and nearly passed out but if it does the old girl justice after 2 years resto on and off then that would be a good choice

Don’t think I’m doing too bad after getting most of my inspiration off 3 different boats and combining a few tweaks of my own and a couple of ideas off here did try to find out who actually owned these boats in the beginning but never got answers off model boat mayhem

Hmmm. I’ve owned/skippered many boats in the US. Helms have been to port, center, & starboard. As far as I know there is no convention for the helm location at least on this side of the pond.
Apparently up to the builder.

I stand corrected by a gentleman who skippers many pleasure craft by delivering them to customers. Captain Rick says “ It can be on both sides Ron but generally center or starboard. I think it depends a lot on the lay out of the boat as many are on the port too.”

In conclusion. it is you the model builder who will make the decision. Forgive me for my ignorance.

Cheers

Haven't done any research so may be wrong but in the UK we navigate rivers on the RHS, so opposite to the side that we drive, and therefore the helm is on the left-hand side. We had a cruiser and I've hired them on the Norfolk Broads and that's how they were. Smaller boats like speedboats have the steering on the RHS.

I thought for cruiser type boats in the US and Canada the opposite is the case?

My 47" Huntsman which I bought built had the wheel on the right which I considered wrong for the UK.

Wez- good shout on the console. I have a Huntress 23 that was built by Dave Milbourn and I copied the console from that for my other builds and yours is very similar. No right or wrong anyway as many in the full-sized boats have been modified or replaced anyway.

Chris

I just did a bit of research on what is preferred? Helm on Port Or Starboard ? Conclusion is varied depending if you’re controls are mounted on the right-side of the operator or if placed in the centre of the shelf. Most said visibility, especially when passing other vessels and docking. If the vessel was fitted with a flying bridge the helm would be centered and on the Port side down below.

Conclusion…. Your choice!