Hi Jumpugly.

Have you tried unscrewing the nuts?
You did it.
What system did you use?
If you can insert a photo, so I understand better.

Your silence makes us anxious, ahahahahah!
The advice is all right in my opinion but little by little, in the absence of your indications, we are considering increasingly drastic systems. It's a climax. a crescendo.

If you don't give us feedback the next suggestion will be the semtex or the c4, now there is hatred for those nuts, ahahahah. I'm joking of course.

Good idea but also consider a nut splitter. Used in auto work.may have problem getting size.

Austin

I don't know if anyone has suggested this yet, but if the cables really need to come off in one piece and the nuts/bolts can be sacrificed, use a Dremel and fine cutting disc and cut straight down into the top of the screw and on into the side of the nut. Eventually the nut and screw will split lengthways and can be removed!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cutting-Blades-Reinforced-Grinding-Mandrel/dp/B08BHWQW59/ref=sr_1_12?crid=ID3K2QB5JIXN&keywords=fine+dremel+discs&qid=1697058571&s=industrial&sprefix=fine+dremel+disk%2Cindustrial%2C66&sr=1-12
DG

These are mole grips, I think they have different names around the globe.
Cheers Colin.

Locking pliers......

In response to Lee’s query below: Yes, it’s an old rheostat speed control circa @ 1989. They are generally dependable and robust, but response is questionable for sure. I just thought for slow cruising it was a safe and inexpensive bet to recycle the parts as the previous owner obviously crashed the boat early in It’s life. The boat was pristine in every way except the jagged hull split from bow to stern. I am sure it was memorable! 😂

MouldBuilder, thankyou ! The North American term is ViseGrips. One of those proprietary names which has found its way into the English language as a generic term for pliers that hav a locking mechanism as your picture illustrates.
I learn at least one new thing everyday thanks to this website....RodC😀

Mole Grips Rod.

ColinH, what are "mole grips"? I'm unfamiliar with your term.....RodC in Canada😔

Hi Jumpugly.

Instead of cutting the cables you can desolder them on the motor.

Are those on the rheostat (resistor speed controller)? Just curious, but why keep it when the ESCs are much more efficent and work better. In recent discussions the advantages of good but reasonable priced ESCs came up.
Lew
Florida, USA

Well, I did my best with my mini heat-shoe. But, no luck, although I did get it to move a bit. I investigated my old "running" Viper and thought it best to back off on this one. I will go with Phil's suggestion and cut the wires. Thanks to all for the suggestions my friends.
-- Guy. 😉
p.s. The good news is that this motor is built for speed. I need a much more sedate "can" to push a yacht around.

Hello Jumpugly.

Do you have to remove those two nuts?

Be careful please if you use heat. It's difficult to concentrate it only where it's needed and not melt nearby things. So if you want to heat the nuts and bolts, don't overdo it.

To turn the nut, don't just rely on your strength, use a lever. Place a socket wrench on the nut and on the socket wrench insert a pin (to form a T) much longer than the one supplied (you can make an extension with a pipe). You will exert enormous force with little effort the longer the pipe is.
The difficult thing is to lock the base and the socket wrench onto the nut well.

If you can, before starting, remove everything that is not needed, that gets in the way of your work and that can be ruined.

Hi why just cut the cables about half way between the two, that way you can use both pieces without any damage 😜

These 2 nuts will have been sealed with threadlock.
If you have a good pair of mole grips it's possible to give them a squeeze, do this on the three opposite flats and it should stretch the nuts enough for you to release them with a little more wd40.
Hope this helps you, cheers Colin.

Good luck.. Don't melt what they are holding.....🤞🤞

DG

YOU GUYS RULE!!! Will give it a go with my heat shrink iron when I get back on the bench!😊

An educated guess.... They used some kind of anaerobic threadlocker, like Loctite's Threadlocker Blue 242. Applying enough torque may loose them. If not, usually applying some heath may help. Either with a solder iron, a heath gun, a hair dryer...

If the nuts are locked with any form of glue/thread lock, touch them with a soldering iron and undo them whilst they are still hot! 👍

DG..

I suspect it is Blue LOCTITE ( as opposed to red loctite). You will need to apply heat. I suggest a hot air gun intended for rework of surface mount components.