Here I present a few more interesting sketches of paddle steamers from Central Africa.I tried to color something.I have read that this type of ship has an unusually raised bow, mainly for overcoming waves over the bar (at river mouths into the sea.)

Allesandro ,
Even our little Bečva can sometimes be big... even bigger...

Some pictures from the construction of my Lulonga model.
I found this plan on the internet.. I put it here as info( source unknown..) If anyone is interested in building this model, I recommend increasing the length of the model by at least 4"-8", due to the longitudinal balance of the model and directional stability.
I simply did the centering and alignment of the paddle wheels by pushing a long steel rod with a diameter of 4 mm through all 4 bearings, and only then glued the bearings in place. Then I could use split axles (Ø 4 mm) , for each wheel separately. I used a toothed rubber strap to transmit the movement from motors.
Due to the model speed, the paddle wheels (Ø140 mm) have a resulting speed of approximately 100 - 120 rpm.The hull has a simple box shape with a rounded bilges.

I found another modification of the ESC connection in a model with an external mix.
As I wrote, I normally have the rudder control on channel 4 on the Lulonga model, and I only control the direction with the motors. Even so, the model is unusually agile and can turn almost on the spot. But I think that for classic sidewheel steamers, this connection with the connection of the rudder servo into the mix can additionally increase the maneuverability of the model.

What do you think about the model >> John Fitch rowboat< ?

This American inventor invented this method of propulsion even before the invention of the ship's paddle wheel
You will find a number of interesting links on YouTube and the Internet.
An article about this model was published in the magazine > Marine Modeling International < , September 2013, under the title "The Beast". This America´s first power boat was a 34-foot craft,model is 5 feet long, about 1 foot wide and 6" deep.

​Look up details

something for paddlewheelers fan>a slightly different other steamer..

>

paddle propulsion steering complex by SEATECH

https://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6113.0
.............................
Unfortunately, the original article at the ru mentioned address
At your disposal is only my old translation.

kismet ...

Our town is located in a really nice countryside, there is not much space for ship modelers (I have the impression that I am left alone here...). You can only go to Bečva with small models, and although there is more water in the park, the wind here blows very little and sporadically...

Tom

https://img20.rajce.idnes.cz/d2003/7/7200/7200686_2372fd2ee5ca1f63da2da7161469f22b/images/lulongaobr14rcr222rc.jpg?ver=0

You have a beautiful place to sail and live tomarack. Hope it is as peacefull as it looks.

Beautiful places Tomarack.

Here are my contributions to the mentioned issue on the paddleducks site .links to paddleducks.co.uk have been down for a long time. They should be available again at this time...10/2024


https://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6228.0

photos from the construction of my Lulonga model
> http://tomarack.rajce.idnes.cz/RC_model_Lulonga

or >https://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6336.0
list of Articles:

http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6113.0
paddle propulsion steering complex by SEATECH
oct 13 2012

http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6228.0
another lulonga – drive system – model paddle wheel
feb 16 2013

http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6227.0
another lulonga - model building (hull building and some details)
feb 15 2013
http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6336.0
another lulonga model - model building and details
June 30 20132
http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6336.15
another Lulonga model - (drive system foto)
July 1 2013

The Article to be continued.. maybe autumn 2013..when the stars will be favorable


All the best.. Tom

Hi Allesandro,
it's too many questions at once.
So - Lulonga has a rudder (for me on channel 4) but it is placed under the inclined stern, and it has been tested that it works only with little efficiency, so I practically do not use it.
Location - I live in a small town Rožnov pod Radhoštěm, Czech Republic, Europe. The river Bečva flows through it. It is, as the experts say, a mountain-type river, for you it would be more like a stream.. We were here on the river with model Lulonga > 49.463001, 18.147153 The first photos - the lake in the park with my Capricorn model, the last photo - I think it's the place in Bečva where we were with model Lulonga.
I also run model boats on the small lake in the park, which is a little bit next to the footbridge. I have no other choice at present.
Angled Paddle Paddles - I covered this in detail on www.Paddleducks.co.uk which is mainly for paddle steamers. In the original, the inventors claim that wheels shaped in this way have better maneuverability.

Hi Tomarack.

Yes, it seems to me that they don't need a rudder to turn. I don't see the rudder, I think it's not there.
I have seen rudders on paddle steamers but probably only those that also had sails (like the Gulnara or the Sphinx) or those with a single wheel.

Where is this lake or river located?
I found the video on YouTube but I couldn't figure out where it is.
What beautiful places!

I was then noticing how the wheel blades are slanted and not straight. Why?
I tried to give myself some answers: perhaps to make the water slide better after the blade has produced its propulsive action?

Just a small sample of what a real boat looks like with a similar drive to my Lulonga model...




Tom

Exactly CommodoreH.

But that's what I don't do.

I should follow the advice of the proverb and instead I continue to put my hands on things that should be left as is.

You don't know how many times I've done damage to try to improve things that, all things considered, were already good. It's a mania.

In other words, "Don't let trying to make something perfect prevent it from being good."

Also "know when to quit while you're ahead"

Hello Tamarack,
Just wanted to let you know that I have been interested/curious about the Lulongo since I saw the picture on the MAP site. Bravo👍😊😉.
Lew
Florida, USA

HI Tomarack.

I really enjoyed watching your videos.

If I understand correctly, your model Lulonga has no rudder and turns thanks to independent blades.

I couldn't figure out the connections, from the videos.
But I agree with you. An Italian proverb said (perhaps attributed to Leonardo Da Vinci): "se una cosa va che la metà basta lasciala stare sennò si guasta" "if something is only half good, leave it alone otherwise it will go bad".
In English it's like this (but without rhyme): if something works even half of what it needs, leave it like that, otherwise it will be ruined.

Hi Allesandro,
it's been more than 10 years since I started building the Lulonga model. I won't tell you exactly how I finally solved the problem. Anyway, I had an external BEC in the model from the start. I don't know now if it's still there, I haven't had the model on the water for several years. I think I have this module now in spare parts, but the RC assembly works, so the connection from the ESC to the receiver via the mixer exists. I'm not sure if I disconnected the jumper from one BEC or not. Anyway, it works without problems. I have RC apparatus HKT6A, 6 channel. 2.4GHz.
I still adhere to the principle of > if it is not broken - don't repair It !
Tom
(Tug Boat) Lulonga quarterwheeler
Scratchbuilt,plywood, balsa, PSH/two ESC,two el motors GM37 - 150 rpm(snail instruments),two independent paddlewheels 140 mm dia,steam engine sound module, fog horn module,el. device siren 12V,
Tx/Rx six-channel HKT6X 2,4 GHz. (Motor: 12V geared 150 rpm) (ESC: DSYS 28 DCRS) (5/10),V-Tail mixer.

You can take a look on Youtube
RC model Lulonga C , steering with V-Tail mixer 1(











,

maybe you can find simply at Youtube > Tomas Tomarack, MVI 8182 - MVI 8184, MVI 8189,MVI 8196 - 8198
​
maybe some more

Hi Scott, RC aircraft modeling sites (I'm not one) are always ahead.

Hi Tomarack.

I read your very long post (fourth message) and intend to reread it more carefully.

Allow me to compliment you, I really liked it.
I like reading and I really like messages full of useful information like yours.

I like this article because you provided more than one solution.
Don't offend anyone, but it's better not to refer to just one solid diagram: battery-ESC/BEC-engine.

Furthermore, everyone has their own needs: those looking for lightness for speed, those looking for thrust power, those looking for moderate speed for realistic navigation, those who make life difficult and want to navigate by sail and motor (like me ahahahahaha), etc. etc.

On the part regarding the fuses I completely agree with you regarding their usefulness and their location.
Only on one thing I don't agree so much but I prefer to write to you privately.

To isolate the positive I do it this way: I never act on the original cables of a device (ESC/BEC, BEC, servo, winch etc. etc.) but I always use extensions (you can buy packs of them for a few euros). When I want to use the ESC BEC I insert the extension with all the cables intact (including the positive); when I want to use a separate power supply and isolate the ESC BEC, I use the extension cable with the positive cut. In this way the original cables are never damaged.

I didn't understand this part well:
"if you have no on board mixing on your radio and wish to make your twin screw boat perform like its real counterpart, you can do this by adding a V-tail mixer, this device normally found on aircraft links the two esc's, in this case BEC type such as Proboat tornado 50 or Viper15's with their bec wire removed from the servo plug because you are using a separate power source.
to do this, you are best having more than 4 channels on your radio set, both tx and rx, a typical set suitable for this is the Futaba 6EXA or Hitec Optic 6, or a Skysport 4, though you may have other preferences."
Certainly not your fault, you are very clear in your explanation, I'm the one who doesn't know all the functions of the radio controls well.

Thanks ToraDog, that cleared things up for me. I truly believe in KISS but sometimes I go astray😁 Len

Len,
A "V Tail" unit is a separate unit rather than a set of options on a transmitter. They were developed during Analog days for radios that did not have the mix capability, like many of the surface radios offered.
There are numerous options of the V tail mixers. Some have very sophisticated option built into them, like servo travel limits, servo speed, ect.
A wise gentleman once told me to stick with the KISS principle. It has taken me years to absorb the advise, but it still works.

Thanks Scott. My question was about the term "v tail mixer "UNIT" as shown in the post by tomarack in the first picture. My confusion is about the word UNIT as it makes me believe it is a separate unit and not a setting on the radio. LEN

Hi,
According to Figure 1, on my Lulonga quarterwheeler model, I use the wiring with a V-Tail mixer.
Even though I have the option of mixing in the transmitter, this connection seemed simpler to me. In addition, the options and method of mixing in the transmitter did not suit me.
In the V-tail mixer manual, you can see two servos, in my case, instead of servos, I have two ESCs connected to the motors. On the transmitter, I have a V-tail mixer connected to channels 1 3 (Ailerons Throttle) as I wrote earlier. Now I control the model with only one stick - Throttle (3. channel) forward and backward, by tilting the stick to the left or right, the mix of Aillerons is mixed in, so I use the motors to control the direction as well. If the model is standing, then using only AIL the model can turn around in place. Controlling the model is thus very easy. Of course, I can also steer the model using the rudder, but this has little effect on this model.

Tom

Hi Len1

A v-tail mixer is used on RC aircraft/gliders that have a v style tail rather than a conventional one. It allows me to have both servos attached to the tail move the same direction when I move my elevator stick up and down so in theory it would work with two esc's allowing fwd/bkd and differential steering too.

I get up down and yaw when flying

Here's a pic of one of my V-tail sailplanes for example

Regards
Scott

What is a V-tail mixer unit as shown in the first picture

Hi,
I am giving some examples here.

here (fig 1) you can control the model with only one stick too(e.g. put throttle to channel 3 , rudder to channel1(ailerons)
I really don't remember where I found this on the net
I finally managed to find a comment, probably from RC Groups
I found it interesting,but there were difficulties in placing the document on these pages.
Tom
Due to several people asking similar questions, some diagrams to help make things easy to understand.

image 2, having a BEC enabled ESC and a seperate battery pack,
you will notice here that the red wire in the tri-color servo lead falls short of the rx, this is to symbilize its removal from the plug. don't snip the wire carefully remove it and tape it back, that way you can still use it if you have to.

using a seperare battery on a bec esc can be used if your rx happens not to have BEC ability because its old, or you need to add a touch of ballast, why add lead when your ballast can be made to work for you.

Image 3, full BEC system one esc one motor.
BEC means Battery Eliminating Circuit, this means that the main battery that feeds your Electronic speed controller, (ESC), also feeds power to the rx though some in-built step-down regulator circuit. again this diagram depicts one propeller, this is usually used where space is an issue, such as in a converted lindberg trawler or other small model. Another issue is weight, such as racing boats where the additional weight of an rx pack may cost a second or two a lap because your boat is hauling a few more ounces than it needs to.

Image 4 Full BEC system with twin motors, one esc.
one esc and two motors, wired in parrallel, with a fuse off each motor. not everyone has multi channel boats, some people still have 2 channel AM systems but may want to run more than one motor in their boats, this is the easist way to do it. wiring in parrallel means that should one engine stop working because of binding and so blow the fuse, (fishing line wrapped around the propeller is a usual cause), the iother motor should still be able to bring the boat home, though the operator will probably suffer some handling issues. using series wired, where the electricity flows through one motor then through the other would have just one fuse, one stalled motor would pop that sole fuse and so leave the boat in need of rescue.

Image 5, twin escs with bec esc's and rx battery.
This sort of layout is often found where the transmitter has on-board mixing, and usually found on larger models where space isnt an issue, such as 1/35th scale tugs and bigger boats, up to something like a 1/96th scale tico or burke type warship. the single battery may be because you want the physical space inside for fitting of working features, gas powered bb guns for the RC combat people, or things like working sirens, or your battery may be quite large to start with anyway.

Image 6 is identical in laypout except it has two batteries in parrallel to double the run time or the main battery supply is also being used for lights etc

As with any BEC equipped ESC, if you are using a seperate battery pack remove the red wire to prevent damage to reciever

image 7, mechanical esc, one motor
yes mechanical type speed controllers, or relay type like those by Electronize may not have a BEC system, so need to have a seperate battery supply for the RX to work,
image 1, twin esc's with a mixer
if you have no on board mixing on your radio and wish to make your twin screw boat perform like its real counterpart, you can do this by adding a V-tail mixer, this device normally found on aircraft links the two esc's, in this case BEC type such as Proboat tornado 50 or Viper15's with their bec wire removed from the servo plug because you are using a seperate power source.
to do this, you are best having more than 4 channels on your radio set, both tx and rx, a typical set suitable for this is the Futaba 6EXA or Hitec Optic 6, or a Skysport 4, though you may have other preferences.

Fusing
You may notice on the diagrams, there are more than 1 fuse, the one on the motor side of the esc protects the electronics within the esc, so should your motor start to over-amp the esc, it will fail before the esc gets damaged. however should your esc develop a fault, the fuse between the esc and battery should pop, protecting the battery, especially useful if lithium polymer type batteries are your power source

Stephen, if you post pictures of the setup, we can hopefully explain how to rectify any problems.
Cheers Colin.

Stephan,
From what you describe,it sounds like you have two power sources to your receiver. Not a good set up. Eliminate one of the sources to the receiver and you should be fine. I would eliminate the separate battery (4.5 v) to the receiver.
As an aside, if the accessories are switched thru the receiver, I would connect the grounds of the two batteries as well.