I've used everything from humbrol enamel and acrylic to rattle cans from halfords, even cellulose without any issues, but whatever paint I have used I only use that type from start to finish.
Cheers Colin.
I've used everything from humbrol enamel and acrylic to rattle cans from halfords, even cellulose without any issues, but whatever paint I have used I only use that type from start to finish.
Cheers Colin.
Hi Jordan,
Yes, should be OK for most paints. but always test the paint on a scrap piece of the sealed wood first to be on the safe side.
Regards Roy
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Skippy, I have always used Ezekote to seal all my wooden models prior to painting, plus you can add a layer of glass cloth to give a hard shell. If you want to save the cost of glass cloth ask your wife for an old pair of tights as the material stretches easily round hull shape.
Hope that this will help you, cheers Colin.
Skippy, I have always used Ezekote to seal all my wooden models prior to painting, plus you can add a layer of glass cloth to give a hard shell. If you want to save the cost of glass cloth ask your wife for an old pair of tights as the material stretches easily round hull shape.
Hope that this will help you, cheers Colin.
Thanks Roy, is this stuff okay to paint over once dry?
Regards
Jordan
JDrew
Hi Skippydrew,
You can buy special balsa sealers but they are quite expensive, I plan to use a acrylic sealer, which is soft (acrylic is softer than polyurethane) and cheap.
Rustins MDFS250 250ml Quick Dry MDF Sealer - Clear, around £5 a tin
But I'm no expert
Regards Roy
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Hi Skippydrew,
You can buy special balsa sealers but they are quite expensive, I plan to use a acrylic sealer, which is soft (acrylic is softer than polyurethane) and cheap.
Rustins MDFS250 250ml Quick Dry MDF Sealer - Clear, around £5 a tin
Good morning gentlemen. I have come to the stage in my build if the US army tug boat from model boats magazine where he done an early
Float test, he sealed the hull using dope and tissue however I have none of this to hand and am doing this build on a budget as it’s for my youngest son. The float test was done before the prop tube was fitted and sealed over with adhesive tape to prevent leakages as stated in his article. I was wondering if a layer of clear varnish would work to seal the hull allowing a brief test to sort ballasting? Allowing me to sand back when it’s finally time for paint.
Regards
Jordan.
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Good morning gentlemen. I have come to the stage in my build if the US army tug boat from model boats magazine where he done an early
Float test, he sealed the hull using dope and tissue however I have none of this to hand and am doing this build on a budget as it’s for my youngest son. The float test was done before the prop tube was fitted and sealed over with adhesive tape to prevent leakages as stated in his article. I was wondering if a layer of clear varnish would work to seal the hull allowing a brief test to sort ballasting? Allowing me to sand back when it’s finally time for paint.