hI davidjt 😊

many thanks.
I have built a brede class 1/12 scale from Waverley models very fast with brushless motors.
I have plans from r.n.l.i. plus from Waverley models ,I will scale them down.
my brede is in the harbour
thank you.

dennis

hI dennis,

I don't have any plans, I drew some from measurements that I have then built from them, with help from picteurs.
the resin I use is davids fastglass resin and glass tissue, cost £4.00 250 ml tin

hI
davidjt
great looking boat have you any plans.
What resin do you use.
Dennis 👍

lost pictuers again trying again

try again, this one is the finished boat of a brede class life boat, all card and no water ingress problems as some people say it is a no brainer. this has sailed all this summer and is brilliant on the water

david

this is my boat

hi,
when ever I use cereal boxes I rub down the printed side, then coat with pva glue, this is also if you want to make thicker card, so you get a good key to what you want it to stick to. I have used card a lot in boat building but coat it with resin I fined it better, heat it up in the tin, in boiling water to thin it then it goes in all the places you cant see. this boat I built is from some card I was given just plain card with shinney finish on one side

Thanks Dave,
I think I'll give it a go like you suggest and take photos along the way. On this model it's only for superstructure and some detail bits, like simulated hull plating. Time for me to man up me thinks, : )

HI Dessie
The printed side may not take all glues and the joint may therefore lack any real strength. That said I know of several models that have used card and balsa without problem so I suggest you try a small sample and see how strong the joint is, once the glue has set. Any dampness will cause the card to de-laminate so you should coat both sides with dope after glueing in place. if you are using balsa cement to glue the card then dope sparingly as it may melt the cement.
You will still need to determine how your chosen finish will take to the card so you may have to compromise to get the desired result.

Good luck with this method and it would be very helpful to forum members if you were to document your progress in a build blog, including all you attempts as this may save others avoid the pitfalls. 😀

HI Dave,
Sorry, I didn't describe any particular boat, but I was talking about the simple models of say Glynn Guest or Hal Harrison design, where card is used as a hull side or super-structure. These would then receive several coats of dope to seal. I was wondering which side of the card to glue to the balsa, or does it make a difference.
Thanks in advance,
Dessie

HI DessieB
Can't see the previous post that describes the model you are presumably referring to so will have to just generalise.

Cereal packets are a cheap and useful source of card for model making. To prevent the printed ink from soaking into the card it is treated before being printed to provide a flat and non absorbent surface. I have never tried painting onto either side as I usually use card as quick templates for rough outlines when building superstructures before making in wood or plasticard.

I suggest you try putting a primer coat on each side and see if you can then achieve the required finish. I seem to remember that cellulose dope was sometimes used on card to seal the surface before painting.

If the card is for a hull structure then a coat of dope and tissue would certainly be a good idea to keep it watertight with a coat of dope on the inside again to protect the card from damp. 😀