Thanks for your comment Ron. If I painted my model like that people would say that I'd bodged it and should strip it down and start again.

Sounds like he was a few years behind you.
Back to the thread.

I left the USS Connole in the spring of 1971 to go to Survival School for Vietnam service, and then to Vietnam so I would not have met Mr Spear.

See my post from four years ago:
“Getting the Sea Gray right “

Use the search to locate

PeeJay,
Did you know a David Spear on Connole? Not sure of the years. He was on her when she went to BIW for some work, maybe in the 80's.
Jonathan

My second ship was the USS Connole, DE 1056 of the Knox class. When I reported for duty, the ship was still under construction in New Orleans.

Once we had completed construction, it was only a couple of months before we went to Charleston Naval Shipyard where we had a list of Shipalts to be performed. So if we would be moored next to the USS Knox, you would be able to see differences.

The best you can do to be totally accurate is to get all the photos of a ship in the narrowest period of time in which you wish to model her. You can also look at pictures of sisters, but there will probably be differences. But who will have contrary information to prove yo wrong? 😄

😂😂😂😂 I love your reply! I sympathize with your plans issue. But, do remember that many ships were never built to the original plans. Change orders during contruction were/are the norm. Also, as was extremely common in the USN, ships would leave the builders, be commissioned and immediately report to a Navy Yard and undergo modifications. This was especially true during WW2. Plans are a great "intended" guide, photos don't lie.
And you are right. It is your build, do it your way. Have fun!

Many Thanks to Peejay and Toradog for your replies. What you suggest is what I suspected. I think i will take the attitude that if no-one knows then no-one can criticise me for not including them. I have the Caldercraft Sir Kay which is a nice starting point. I have replaced most of the white metal parts with resin ones to cut down on top weight. If you compare the model with the John Lambert plans it is wrong in many ways, however if you compare the John Lambert plans with the original shipyard plans they are wrong too. As a final problem, if you compare the shipyard plans with photos they too are wrong. So if any of you see me sailing her on my local pond and come to me saying my model is wrong , I will not be polite😠😠😠.
Best wishes and thanks Tim😊😊😊

First off, decks were painted acording to camoflage appicable to each navy. Most USN ships used Weathered Deck Blue, but there were variations. I would research the applicable instructions for the ship you are building.
as for lights, from what I have read, lights were not shown during wartime except, perhaps, in harbor, and even tha was questionable, ie Royal Oak. It was generally, ecept along the US coast in 41' and 42', considered to be asking for a torpedo, to be showing ANY kind of lights on a ship, even cigarette butt glows.
All that said, it is, again, a case of researching the applicable regulations relative to your Navy's ship. I woud suspect that the Imperial war Museum or peraps the RN's museum would have the answer for you.
Sorry to be round about, but sometimes it isn't really clear.

I served on three ships during my active duty in the US Navy from 1967 to 1977 and many more while in training as a midshipman.

Each of them had haze gray bulkheads (verticals) and darker blue gray decks. The darker color of the decks was to minimize the effects of human traffic on the decks, as well as equipment, such as mooring lines, replenishment gear, mooring lines and gear, ammunition and storage.

So paint your decks the darker color.

As for minesweeping lights, you can find images of your ship in World War II in Google. If that’s the period during which you wish to model her, the lights should show.