Hi chaps thanks for the replies on the prop angle. I need to raise the motor by about 5mm to get the prop and motor shaft as straight as possible doing this l will have to realign the prop shaft. originally the motor shaft and prop shaft were at an angle to one another.
Cheers Bill for the prop idea having it just close enough to the rudder post so that if it does unscrew you don,t lose it. Brilliant.
Cheers guys stay safe regards, Jim.

Hi Jim.
Re your prop and it’s angle!
I agree with Martin…..motor and shaft in my experience should always be in line and as straight as possible.
Whatever type of coupling you use the more you increase the angle in relation to motor and shaft the more you increase the friction/drag and potential noise from the coupling.It also drains the battery with the heavier load
I attach a picture of an example that is in build by me at the moment.(Starting a blog soon)it shows the shaft and motor in as good a line as possible.
The greater the angle of the shaft will also push the bow down at higher speeds.You can compensate with counter weight at the stern,but that will make the boat sit deeper in the water when stationary and again adds more weight.

If your rudder is too close to the prop and you are running at high speed then you risk cavitation from the prop(Air bubbles) which could affect the rudder efficiency.
All my boats run at relatively slow speeds so not a problem for me.
I also try the keep the rudder post close enough to the prop so that if the prop unscrews(which it shouldn’t if you use opposite tread to shaft rotation) then the post stops it falling off.

We are away at the moment on holiday and if the wife catches me on here too long I’ll be in the soup,so more when I get home.😂
Hope it helps.
Regards Bill.

Hi Jim,
I am no expert but if you change the angle at the prop end you will also need to change the angle of the motor.

If the prop is to be angled down then it might want to push the Bow down more when underway.

I am sure there are more knowledgable members here that could help.

Martin555.

Hi chaps, l new you would,nt let me down your suggestions for removing the prop shaft worked a treat. I cut the shaft down inside the hull as much as possible then then heated the tube on the outside of the hull. A quick twist with a pair of grips and Hey presto it was out.
I want to throw in another question, is there a set distance between the rudder post and the prop or is it " if it looks right then it is right.
Also l would like to change the angle of the tube downwards at the prop end by 5mm do you think that will that change the handling of the boat.

Cheers mouldbuilder best advice so far. Didnt think about cutting the shaft internally then useing a soldering iron tip internally in the shaft to heat up it up.
cheers stay safe. jim

I have recently removed a shaft from my 35 year old PTB. It was well fixed in with epoxy.
I cut the internal side with my Dremel fairly close to the glue. I left the other end long to take some heat away and something to hold to twist it. I placed a 60w soldering iron tip inside the inner part of the shaft and then twisted it holding on the outside of the shaft and it soon released allowing me to remove the heat source and quickly twisting it around until all of the way out. Just twist around avoiding lateral forces which are more likely to crack the hull.

Just be careful working inside a corded dremel it has mains voltage running in it. Use a RCD, which stands for Residual Current Device.

Thanks for that most helpful and I would agree that applying some heat should affect the glues adhesion, so gentle heat and rotation should work

Hi chaps thanks for the suggestions. I am lucky that the hull is built up with wood so if l heat up the shaft it wont transfer or absorb the heat like a fiber glass or plastic one will.
Still, l am not really looking forward to wrenching my chris craft about,
elderly ladies do not like being mucked about with.
Cheers chaps stay safe. Jim.
PS dont mind the thread moving on as long as it informs and learns.

One more about the switch. This video didn't download with the other two on the previous reply. Remember to remove the brushes before removing the main body. Watch when ordering spares I've order a switch and a field with two different companies. There struggling to gets the parts, that 4 weeks now. Aye but the took the money and never said Out of Stock on their site.
Sorry about high jacking your thread jimdogge

mturpin13 Here is 2 videos on YouTube should explain it better than me.

Hi Jim
Are we talking about the actual inner shaft or the whole assembly?
If its the inner shaft I would cut off the bent bit and just pull the rest out. You may need to remove the rudder. Should be easy to fit a new replacement.
If it's the whole assembly then I agree with the previous posts, but heat and fibreglass are not a good match so tread carefully.
Molegrips can work if you can manage to get a good grip. The secret is to break the seal between the brass shaft and whatever was used to fix it in place. In my experience a tap with a heavy hammer on each end of the shaft will often break this seal as brass does not glue that easily. If that doesn't work you may have to get the dremel out and cut away the fixing from around the shaft. I usually start inside to try and preserve the hull. Makes a mess and wear a mask and glasses for protection.
Dave

HI Seaspray, I note with interest your comment "Strip down and multi meter test revealed the field was open circuit" I and I suspect many others have Dead Dremel's, would you care to elaborate on the test procedure. I do have the test equipment but being a mechanical engineer with limited knowledge of testing the appropriate parts of a Dremel and what to expect as results.
Maybe a "How To" ?

Just an addition to the previous reply the Dremel job the shaft came out of the model at an angle and had a support piece of ply between the shaft and model and was plastered with epoxy. Hard work for the Dremel which packed up. Strip down and multi meter test revealed the field was open circuit. Have ordered a new one which will take a month to come. Most of the hull has been filled in with P38 leaving a little hole for the new shaft.

I removed mine from the Scotia by using the soldering iron. It was fitted horizontally into the fiberglass hull Try and get the centre drive shaft out the way then slowly apply heat to and around the outshaft and glue.
Last week I had to use the Dremel to cut and grid away loads of epoxy from the angled shaft on the outside of the hull, Also inside the hull where the shaft enters the model again remove the centre out of the way.drive

That has worked for me.
Might also suggest some heat might soften the adhesive holding the shaft in.
Good luck.