Threw a dart at a bunch of free plans and came up with this one (old MM plan) No matter what I chose, I would always see something else and wish I'd built that instead, but this has possibilities for a few improvements to the hull and a bit of room for extra 'stuff'. I had it printed originally to A-O size, but it came out a tad large, so I scaled it back to 33" x 10" which should make a good sized model. If I'd gone with the original print size (48") it would have required a weed-eater motor, my own forest, and a trailer😁. At 33" it will suit 3ft balsa sheets.

Went up to the print place and got it done yesterday, came home and did the bulkhead tracings, then transferred those to some 4mm light ply and cut them roughly to size. Later today I might give them a haircut to the final shape with my small bandsaw. Next job will be to find some spruce for the framing, which could be a challenge, as the main (almost only) model shop in Auckland, is a bit light on for most modelling wood at present.

I'll build it my usual way, - upside down with a central square hardwood spine screwed to the board, with the tops of the bulkheads notched to fit over it and all blocked in place. Once planked and glassed, the spine can be cut out in the required areas. This model could take a while, as I have a dozen other jobs which need doing.

I've now trimmed and made a few adjustments to the bulkheads, and lined up and glued Nos 2,3,5,6 as I am reasonably happy with them. A few of the bulkheads were not equal side to side on the plan and have been shimmed to correct this. The shape is not too bad, but I think it could have been a bit fuller in the bow at the chine. I might add a bit on frame BH2 later, as I was thinking of building a slight flare in (from BH3 forward), rather than have the bow planked flat sided.

I was initially hoping to build it upside down, but due to the fact it is all compound curves and the way it has been drawn, it would have required a board full of support blocks for the different heights of the bulkheads, (sort of like tying to build a 3 dimensional banana) I ended up installing a partial half thickness rear thick keel (originally for a shaft and rudder support I think) and used that to screw the rear end down on the board. I added a couple of blocks at the front to keep the keel straight as well.

I'll be off to the hardware tomorrow to buy a couple of right angle shelf brackets to hold the stem steady for framing, and some more small wood blocks from the Chinese $2 shop for assembly props. I'll have to find some 10x3 balsa strip (or cut some sheet down) to laminate the framing,- especially the gunwale as it looks like it is moulded over and may need building up for sanding to shape.

Done a bit more work on getting the lines looking right today and it's starting to look better. I bought a couple of shelf brackets today, and used them to hold the front structure firmly in place, as with the amount of 'rocker' in the keel, the front half of it was off the board and very flexible and impossible to work on.

Bought a marking gauge as well to mark the 3mm sheet I bought to use for the strips to laminate the gunwale frames. These have to be laminated, as scaling the boat up to 33" from 18", meant that the timber scaled as well, (obviously), and the now 10mmx10mm framing would have been impossible to bend. A bit of packing will be involved but will not be seen once the deck is on etc.

I am going to try and modify the marking gauge into a balsa slitter (there were some made for plane work years ago, not sure if they still do them) as it would be handy to be able to slit your own balsa (they charge near double the whole sheet price for strips )

I've just re-re modified bulkhead 4 to give a bit more room to play with in the 'engine room'. Might be able to fit everything in one compartment as it's quite roomy. The pics show a brushed 550 motor for scale (probably fitting 2 of these, running on 3s LiPos and HV ESCs.

Been doing a bit more chine and gunwale laminating (4-3mmx10mm laminations each) looks a bit rough, but most will be sanded to shape later before sheeting). I've also had a play with the new shape for the transom, which as mentioned has to be built up due to its' new scaled up size. It will be a different shape to the plan, but it should allow me to bend thin ply round it for varnishing. Just 'chain-sawing on the fly' as I usually tend to do😁.

Off the rack now and found a few adjustments had to be made, as things had moved a bit. I had to cut and slide bulkhead 5 over about 4mm, as it had moved on the keel slot, (probably should have put another shelf bracket there). Patient's well (and in recovery) now I think. Took the big machinery -Emco star (which I do most of my bandsawing and disk sanding on) and belt sander) to the over laminations on the gunwale and chine rails to speed things up, and finished them off with a block to the correct angles. Also belt sanded the rear keel pine blocks to match the bottom angles, (my Einhell belt sander has a flip up front guard which lets you see what you are doing,- very handy)

I have glued in most of the sheet support pieces to the bulkheads, and the large sheet supports at the stern, as it will require an extra piece added to the main sheet, due to the larger scale. Also added extra bulking out pieces here and there, which will also be sanded down for sheet supports (extra gluing area and easy to push modelling pins into) Looks reasonably straight now, (using eyeometry) and any small corrections can be made by over sheeting and sanding straight.

Not the easiest hull to do framing wise as mentioned, due to all the compound curves, ie the gunwale starts at one angle, Right- through another angle and rolls the other way-left to the transom,- lots of sanding re laminating and more sanding, (like twisting a square rod and bending it inwards and downwards at the same time. Lots of fun😐 Getting there slowly.

The Austrian Emcostar is one of the handiest tools you could have for modelling,- has a 1/4"bandsaw, belt sander, disc sander, bench saw and jigsaw, and scroll saw plus you could get other attachments such as a wood lathe to go on the back end. Unfortunately not produced any more, but would be rather expensive these days if they were. Still have a big following round the world, as they have lasted well due to the beautiful and clever engineering.

Didn't like the look of the bow curves, so it was out with the chainsaw and hacking the offending bits off. I have now made a ply sub deck which is a much better shape (should have made solid forms at the bow anyway,- due to the tight curve). The different density of the balsa had given one side a better curve than the other. Added some more sheet supports to the bulkheads and reshaped the transom slightly. Almost ready to start sheeting.

I was thinking of veneering the hull sides, but veneer is hard to find in the right size (enough to do the sides in one piece) and the bits I have found are over $100 for an 800x250 piece. I found some Midwest and Bud Nosen Models (US) veneer pieces in a local art supplies at $15 a sheet which I will use for the transom and trims. I bought 1 maple and 1 mahogany, but not sure which I'll use yet. I got the last piece of mahogany, but there are still a number of maple sheets there if I need them.

Unfortunately they are not long enough or wide enough to cover the sides, so I would have to make 3 pieces each side to cover them. Worked out it would cost around $70 to do, but I don't want to spend that much, just for covering. I have ordered 2- 300mm shafts from Ali Expr which should arrive in a month or so. Unfortunately we don't have any model boat stuff sold in NZ any more, so everything has to come from CMB, Ali Expr etc which is at least a month + per order. You have to try and think what you might need 4-6 weeks into the future, which is a pain, especially if things go missing.

Decided to have a crack at some planking today, as everything was looking good in the frame department. I usually run a long piece of strip balsa over the entire frame of a model to check if the sheeting is going to lay down smoothly, then dry fit the pre-cut balsa pieces to double check before applying the sticky stuff, (I think everyone does this). Looks to be shaping up pretty well, so should be finished the sides, and maybe the bottom tomorrow.

After that it will be on to the transom. I'll sheet the transom first, then lay the veneer over the top of that to give it some strength. Frame/bulkhead No 4 is still not glued in but will be after I have decided where to mount the motors and made the mounts etc. I have made it so it can be tilted back and removed. The laminated gunwale and chine rails don't move at all, so it's not a problem removing it.

Where the sheets join horizontally, they are edge glued with Elmers multi purpose glue (basically a fancy PVA) and held tightly together, - small 10 mm wide strips are placed across these joins on the inside using thick Cyano to hold them together.

Mostly finished sheeting the sides now and have cut the slots in bulkhead 5 for the twin shafts. Easier to do this before the bottom sheets go on. I'll be making slotted ply plates to fit on the floor of the motor space for the shafts to eventually be epoxied to . Transom is now sheeted and will be veneered once the hull is glassed, to avoid any glue or resin spoiling it.

Deck ply (1.5mm) has been rough cut but will need slitting at the bow I think, as it will not go round the compound curve. Might have to build the sub foredeck up to ease it a bit also. I won't fit the deck till all the internals and glassing is done, as it will need trimming to the outside edge of the glass. All the cut-outs will be done first, along with the deck 'plank' marking etc. Extra support framing will no doubt be needed round the hatch and cockpit areas.

Found a pic of a boat similar to what this is modelled off, Chris Craft by the looks of it.

Been waiting for the deck ply to form itself over the compound curve at the bow, The deck was clamped and taped and a sponge with boiling water was allowed to sit on the foredeck until cool, then repeated 3 more times and left for a few days to mould and dry. Seems to have worked quite well as about 80% of the tension has been removed and the ply is easier to pull down now.

I cut out the cockpit and engine bay hatch last night and drew up some of the 'planking' . I used a modified rounded pin in my marking gauge to scribe the line around the outer edges of the deck and measured and 'scribed' the straight lines with a fine pointed black ball pen. The deck will be stained and varnished eventually. The engine hatches will be hinged using aircraft hinges and open from the centre (still to cut it in half)

Been busy with other jobs, so going a bit slowly.

Just to give and idea of scale, plenty of room for 'bits' (std sized 6 ch shown)