I have only just seen this build blog.
My Uncle had an International Dragon and my Father a National Swallow, both of which have fairly similar hull lines, so this build appeals greatly to me.

Will

Hi there Ron

At the moment one of the only things I can think of, apart from using pulleys and springs, is a 2 gear set up - meaning the gears are of equal diameter and teeth - one mounted on the rudder shaft and the other would be mounted on the servo. I was thinking of using maybe mini-servos - the ones that aeroplane guys use - when controlling the flaps in the wings. This setup I was thinking would be the servo to the side of the shaft, mounted at the same angle,. I have been googling the web to see if I can find anyone else who has actually fitted a radio into this model and see how they have done it - and also what size the model is. Its very hard to tell from the photographs.

Here is a scribble I have done - you may be able to follow it.

John

Someone posted how they used pulleys and line to solve this problem but I do not know who did. Do you recall?

I know about them, seen in the hobby store. Just never used. Are they a stiff rod? Do they come with a connector which attaches to the control horn at both ends?

hi there Ron

I have only ever used these once on a standoff model of the Virgin Atlantic Challenger. It was a pretty short run from servo to rudder. I would say about 70mm.

As far as I recall, without climbing into the loft and getting the model out. Its a very stiff nylon inner and a hard plastic outer but it can be bent quite easily. I think there is only one connector on one end because you have to cut the other end to length as you require and obviously fit your own connections onto that. It works pretty good, I was quite sceptical at first about using them, but, as long as you support the outer casing pretty secure to stop it moving it works really well.

Here are a couple of pics - its just to show you the set up that I have in my model.

John

Doug,
Progress with the deck. Now after scoring do I use a #2 pencil to highlight the groove? Then give the clear coat?

I plan to fibreglass the deck after the coaming is made this will insure a water tight hull.

Hi Ron,
Nice going so far 👍
I prefer to use a graphic artists Fine Liner (0.5mm) rather than pencil.
It gives a finer, darker line without smudging. 😉
When I get around 🙄 to continuing with my ancient Billing Boats Gina 2 fish cutter restoration / RC conversion that's a job I will have to do.
The original printed deck was tinder dry, paper thin and fell apart in my hand! 😭
I'll then seal the new deck (probably 1mm marine ply) with EzeKote. Gives a nice gloss as well.
I may tint the deck with Lord Nelson varnish to give a bit of colour.
I also recently bought a LifeColor deck weathering set. Not tried it yet though.
Cheers, Doug 😎

"the ink bled"
Oh dear! Very sorry about that Ron.🤔
Mia culpa! 😔
I should have mentioned that I don't use the Fineliner on raw wood, only after sanding sealer, e.g. diluted EzeKote, treatment!
Anyway, as long as you are happy with how it eventually turned out 👍
You might be able to 'wash' some of the ink off with something like cellulose thinners.
Or it might make the whole deck go grey, like weathered wood!
Cheers, Doug 😎

I do like the way you have linked the servo to the tiller, Nice build all round . Looking forward to seeing her under sail.

Nerys

"Looking forward to seeing her under sail."
Me 2 Nerys 👍
But I think I would have preferred to have the tiller as one with the rudder and the control linkage under deck. With the Canadian cousin of Graham's rowing Bionic Bill up top with his hand on the tiller.
😎