Mirium Moran build

Started by modeltugman

21 updates 0 likes 1 comment

Mirium Moran build

Once I was happy I the copied the lines to 9mm marine plywood and spent a happy few hours cutting it all out with a jig saw.

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MiriumMoran build

when I had all the frames and keel sanded and faired it was all assembled and screwed to the building board.

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Mirium moran build

The next job was to make patterns for the bottom skins from Card ,because of the length of the boat these had to be made in two pieces per side

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Mirium Moran Build

The shapes for the bottom skins were then transferred to 3mm ply and cut out, where there are compound curves in the hull the ply was under stress if I tried to pull it into shape so I soaked it in very hot water until it was plyable (excuse the pun ) the skins were the clamped in place and left to dry. once the clamps were removed the skins stayed in place with no stress at all, so they were then pinned and stuck in place, the same procedure was use for the side skins and the chine pieces.

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Mirium Moran

Once the glue had dried the hull and joins were sandedand filler added where required while it was still fixed to the base board.and the korts were trial fitted

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Mirium Moran Build

the next job was to remove the hull from the building board ,and now we can really see the shape of her.
1 comment
  1. Colin HSilver
    Fleet Admiral
    Well made so far, am enjoying your build description and looking forward to following the rest. Haven't had any experience with korts nozzles so not fully conversant with their operation. the size and shape look really good.

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Mirium Moran

the next little job was to align the propshafts and nozzles. the way that I do it is to loosley align the shafts with the motors and then make a disc to fit into the kort nozzle aand screw it onto the pouter end of the propshaft and align the disc with the rudder shaft centre line this is the turning point in the centre of the nozzle. once happy the shaft and kort bearers were bedded in with fibre glass paste.

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Mirium Moran

Now I could turn the hull up the right way and fit the deck and coamings, working out the position of the deck openings from the full scale drawings, the only thing that I had to do different from the real tug was to make extra opening for access to the steering gear and to make a large opening in the after deck to allow ballast to be put in and taken out for sailing she is going to need some heavy ballast this one.

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Mirium Maran

I though that I should post a couple of pictures of the real tug for you,and also of the funnel which is made from plywood and the two towing bits made from brass.

More to come later.

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