The Keel on the Brooklyn.
Has a gap from where it meets the hull.
It's recommended to use Bondo.
Which is a auto mobile body filler!
There is a lot of sanding.
Required after you Bondo the hull.
When I built Serenity aka Jersey City by Dumas.
I remember having to do the same procedure!
The folks at Dumas. Say the Bondo won't crack.
Well mine did, it was a small crack.
which I used zap-a-gap on!
Note:
Mix the Bondo (P38) just right. So it doesn't crack later on!
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The Keel on the Brooklyn.
Has a gap from where it meets the hull.
It's recommended to use Bondo.
Which is a auto mobile body filler!
There is a lot of sanding.
Required after you Bondo the hull.
When I built Serenity aka Jersey City by Dumas.
I remember having to do the same procedure!
The folks at Dumas. Say the Bondo won't crack.
Well mine did, it was a small crack.
which I used zap-a-gap on!
Note:
Mix the Bondo (P38) just right. So it doesn't crack later on!
The Bulwark is reinforced using 1/8" ABS plastic.
It adds thickness and makes the boat more rigid!
Also you have to put 1/8" squared wood pieces!
This adds more thickness to the Bulwark.
Gives it more to grab on to when you go to glue the caprail on!
Note:
Before you put the piece of plastic on the the Bulwark.
Run a bead of glue down the bulwark and deck itself!
Then glue the other piece of plastic to the bulwark!
You'll see how strong the hull gets after words!
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The Bulwark is reinforced using 1/8" ABS plastic.
It adds thickness and makes the boat more rigid!
Also you have to put 1/8" squared wood pieces!
This adds more thickness to the Bulwark.
Gives it more to grab on to when you go to glue the caprail on!
Note:
Before you put the piece of plastic on the the Bulwark.
Run a bead of glue down the bulwark and deck itself!
Then glue the other piece of plastic to the bulwark!
You'll see how strong the hull gets after words!
I had to bondo (P38) the seam on her stern.
And around the rudder tube.
Sanded it down to make it look flush!
Also had to bondo her stern as well.
Her stern looks nice and even know!
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I had to bondo (P38) the seam on her stern.
And around the rudder tube.
Sanded it down to make it look flush!
Also had to bondo her stern as well.
Her stern looks nice and even know!
Bondo is just automotive body filler!
It's made by 3M corp.
The Folks at Dumas swear by the stuff.
It's ok smells a bit while it's drying though!
Also there's a lot of elbow grease needed as well. 😲
OK, what is it they say.
Measure trice cut once!
Well after making the markings for the frames.
Pieces of 1/8" squared spruce.
Used as simulated hull frames.
I noticed the marks were off.
So had to remark in black marker.
to tell where the new marks are going to be!
Luckily after the model is painted.
you won't see the marks.
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OK, what is it they say.
Measure trice cut once!
Well after making the markings for the frames.
Pieces of 1/8" squared spruce.
Used as simulated hull frames.
I noticed the marks were off.
So had to remark in black marker.
to tell where the new marks are going to be!
Luckily after the model is painted.
you won't see the marks.
32 pieces of 1/8" squared by about 1/2" high spruce.
Glued in place every 2" apart!
Next comes the caprail...
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I have glued the Caprail on.
Have to use the Bondo (p38)again!
There's quite a few seams.
from where the caprail joins together!
Rudder is in place as well.
I have temperarily placed the bollard on deck.
To see how they look!
In place is the dowel.
that will be used as the stem post at the bow.
Note:
The bollards are low to the caprail.
I didn't like that.
So, I put a piece of plastic under the bollards.
To raise them to the right height!
Also if the bollards are too low.
You won't have anything to put ropes onto!
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I have glued the Caprail on.
Have to use the Bondo (p38)again!
There's quite a few seams.
from where the caprail joins together!
Rudder is in place as well.
I have temperarily placed the bollard on deck.
To see how they look!
In place is the dowel.
that will be used as the stem post at the bow.
Note:
The bollards are low to the caprail.
I didn't like that.
So, I put a piece of plastic under the bollards.
To raise them to the right height!
Also if the bollards are too low.
You won't have anything to put ropes onto!
Before I forget!
The hull halfs of the Brooklyn are a bit off!
You must make sure they are symmetrical.
As they are not!
I sanded down the Starboard side to match the port side!
You can see the line I drew for the Rubrails line up.
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Before I forget!
The hull halfs of the Brooklyn are a bit off!
You must make sure they are symmetrical.
As they are not!
I sanded down the Starboard side to match the port side!
You can see the line I drew for the Rubrails line up.
The rubrails are know in place!
1/8" square plastic rods are glued.
on to the rubrail padding.
On the fiberglass hull this was molded on the hull!
The hull becomes very rigged.
After you put the rubrail padding.
Then put the rubrail on.
Makes the hull quite sound!👍
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The rubrails are know in place!
1/8" square plastic rods are glued.
on to the rubrail padding.
On the fiberglass hull this was molded on the hull!
The hull becomes very rigged.
After you put the rubrail padding.
Then put the rubrail on.
Makes the hull quite sound!👍
Fantail is now completed.
It's actually removable.
To gain access to the rudder post and linkage!
Note:
Take your time with this step.
And it will come out the same way!
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