Sent an email to the folks at Dumas.
I just hope they put insurance on my package!
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Thanks, guess what?
Great news it's not a total loss.
My package was still at the post office!
Don't know how that happened.
It's scheduled for redelivery in tomorrows mail!
My build can then continue!
Prop shaft and stuffing box came in the mail!
Now back to working on my build of the Brooklyn!
Temperedly misplaced at the post office!
Note:
I used the gearing that is sent by Dumas!
See the motor mount deck. is too high above the keel!
And the Dumas gearing system almost aligns to the main shaft!
You just have to play with it a bit to get it to align!
If you want to use something like A MFA Combo Drill.
You will have to cut down. The supports that goes underneath.
The motor mount deck! I figure a little over a 1/4"!
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Prop shaft and stuffing box came in the mail!
Now back to working on my build of the Brooklyn!
Temperedly misplaced at the post office!
Note:
I used the gearing that is sent by Dumas!
See the motor mount deck. is too high above the keel!
And the Dumas gearing system almost aligns to the main shaft!
You just have to play with it a bit to get it to align!
If you want to use something like A MFA Combo Drill.
You will have to cut down. The supports that goes underneath.
The motor mount deck! I figure a little over a 1/4"!
Funny coincidence! Last night I watched the Kevin Costner film 'The Postman' on German TV. Thought about you and your missing package! 😉
Good film (OK - movie to you😉) Cheers and Goodnight from Munich.
Doug😎
Well now that my prop stuff arrived.
I fent like working on the seam.
That goes far and aft in the hull!
Had to place a 1" wide fiberglass ribbon.
Along the middle of the hull!
Reinforcing the hulls inner keel!👍
Note:
Make sure to put the Fiberglass ribbon!
It helps to strengthen the keel!
Also if while grinding down the flange to the keel.
If you go too far into the flange.
You'll hit the fiberglass ribbon!
If you see the ribbon STOP!
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Well now that my prop stuff arrived.
I fent like working on the seam.
That goes far and aft in the hull!
Had to place a 1" wide fiberglass ribbon.
Along the middle of the hull!
Reinforcing the hulls inner keel!👍
Note:
Make sure to put the Fiberglass ribbon!
It helps to strengthen the keel!
Also if while grinding down the flange to the keel.
If you go too far into the flange.
You'll hit the fiberglass ribbon!
If you see the ribbon STOP!
Unlike the fiberglass hull.
that use to come with the Brooklyn.
The ABS hull has to be trimmed down (Flange) to the hull!
After this you'll put a 3/8" x 1/4" piece of plastic on the hull!
This will then become the keel!
Be careful not to go into the hull.
While your trimming the hull!
Note:
Try to be as neat as possible!
Cutting the flange down to the keel!
Make sure the keel is flush against the keel!
Then after that glue the 3/8" plastic to the keel!
Be neat so you don't have to use.
That much Bondo (P38)!
Also while putting the Bondo (P38).
Be neat with too!
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Unlike the fiberglass hull.
that use to come with the Brooklyn.
The ABS hull has to be trimmed down (Flange) to the hull!
After this you'll put a 3/8" x 1/4" piece of plastic on the hull!
This will then become the keel!
Be careful not to go into the hull.
While your trimming the hull!
Note:
Try to be as neat as possible!
Cutting the flange down to the keel!
Make sure the keel is flush against the keel!
Then after that glue the 3/8" plastic to the keel!
Be neat so you don't have to use.
That much Bondo (P38)!
Also while putting the Bondo (P38).
Be neat with too!
After grinding the flange that's 1/4" high.
Took all day long! grind here, sand there!
False keel is now in place. A bit of bondo to fill the gaps!
Lots of sanding to do! there's a big difference between the fiberglass and the ABS. Lots more work to do on the ABS hull!
Note:
Make sure to mix the Bondo (p38) correctly!👍
I find if it's not mixed correctly. it will crack after a while!😱😲😤
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After grinding the flange that's 1/4" high.
Took all day long! grind here, sand there!
False keel is now in place. A bit of bondo to fill the gaps!
Lots of sanding to do! there's a big difference between the fiberglass and the ABS. Lots more work to do on the ABS hull!
Note:
Make sure to mix the Bondo (p38) correctly!👍
I find if it's not mixed correctly. it will crack after a while!😱😲😤
Decided to Work on the rudder.
Bit of soldering nothing major!
Gluing the outer shell of the rudder is the challenge!
Not exactly a neat soldering job, but it's not going to be seen!
Note:
You should have a good working torch.
For this part of the build! I used a pencil torch for this.
Thats all I had at the time! Now, I have the right torch!
The rudder halves fit one to one. So you will have to force one half on to the other then glue it together!
Their are two plastic bearings. You have to put one on the top. And one on the bottom of the rudder! Glue them nicely to the rudder! This should keep water out of the rudder!
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Decided to Work on the rudder.
Bit of soldering nothing major!
Gluing the outer shell of the rudder is the challenge!
Not exactly a neat soldering job, but it's not going to be seen!
Note:
You should have a good working torch.
For this part of the build! I used a pencil torch for this.
Thats all I had at the time! Now, I have the right torch!
The rudder halves fit one to one. So you will have to force one half on to the other then glue it together!
Their are two plastic bearings. You have to put one on the top. And one on the bottom of the rudder! Glue them nicely to the rudder! This should keep water out of the rudder!
Hi Ed, on the next you could try to slit the rudder stem and do it in one piece I've done this a few times in the past and especially good when not able to solder I've riveted instead, using 1.2 mm brass rod as rivets. Hope this helps, Colin.
Hi Colin H.
I would have rivets, But did have enough copper wire!
Then the soldering iron I had was a torch!
So couldn't create enough heat!
I plan on redoing the rudder at a later date👍
So, the rudder is completed!
It's made up of thin ABS plastic with a brass core.
The rudder has to be cut out of a sheet of ABS plastic
You are suppose to laminate the rudder.
I found this task a bit difficult.
Because both halfs are the same size!
What the folks at Dumas recommend.
Is to overlay one half over the other!
Then glue the seam, with out gluing your fingers!
It's mentioned that the pilot house has a thin film.
You must remove prier to assembly
Well, I found out the hard way so does the Rudder!
Dave M, I will be ordering a new rudder and rudder post.
once I have a better torch.
I will do a better job at soldering the rudder together!😉
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So, the rudder is completed!
It's made up of thin ABS plastic with a brass core.
The rudder has to be cut out of a sheet of ABS plastic
You are suppose to laminate the rudder.
I found this task a bit difficult.
Because both halfs are the same size!
What the folks at Dumas recommend.
Is to overlay one half over the other!
Then glue the seam, with out gluing your fingers!
It's mentioned that the pilot house has a thin film.
You must remove prier to assembly
Well, I found out the hard way so does the Rudder!
Dave M, I will be ordering a new rudder and rudder post.
once I have a better torch.
I will do a better job at soldering the rudder together!😉
If you don't knock the rudder on something it may be good for some time.
I have used plastic padding (car body repair) to join two plastic mouldings together in the past. I used a shaft and drilled two 1mm holes within the rudder area, put some 1mm brass rod in the holes sticking out each side then placed the two mouldings either side with plenty of plastic padding in between. Leave to dry overnight then clean up the edges the next day.
Might save you having to solder!
The pond I go to is quite clear of debris!
I shouldn't run in to anything I hope!
Thanks for the idea! about the padding and brass rods!
I just wish Dumas would have made the rudder already made!
But, like I said I'll order the rudder parts. and give it another go.👍
The rudder is in place!
I saw where Dumas used a cast skeg for the rudder!
I think they should have kept using the cast skeg!
Now they give a strip of brass. that you must bend to shape.
And drill into the keel! I don't like this at all. should be ok I hope!
Note:
When drilling into the keel also the skeg.
Be careful use a 3/16" drill! No bigger than that!
The kit comes with two screws. That are used just for that!
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The rudder is in place!
I saw where Dumas used a cast skeg for the rudder!
I think they should have kept using the cast skeg!
Now they give a strip of brass. that you must bend to shape.
And drill into the keel! I don't like this at all. should be ok I hope!
Note:
When drilling into the keel also the skeg.
Be careful use a 3/16" drill! No bigger than that!
The kit comes with two screws. That are used just for that!
Mornin' All,
Hi Dave, yep, I thought about that as well but wondered if the prop tips might then get too close to the sweep of the keel to the hull!
My experience with brass washers on rotating parts is that they wear much faster, and if you file them they can themselves end up working like files🤔 I would go for stainless.
Rowen: basically agree about the nylon, although we are not talking power boat here so it shouldn't be too stressed.😉
Happy shopping Ed.
Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Dave
I know what my problem is.
I was suppose to place the prop shaft.
1/4 out of the hull, I have accidently placed it
5 1/6th of an inch!
So the shaft is a 1/16th to far out!
There is no way I can correct this at this point....
I placed 2oz of resin towards the stern.
To hold the prop shaft in place.
And made sure no water gets in the hull!
From know on I will measure everything twice!
It's said necessity is the mother of invention.
Well, I looked at the top of zap-a-gap bottle top.
Saw it was shaped like a 1/6" nylon washer.
Drilled through the center and presto!
One nylon thrust washer, made up!
As soon as I have a chance.
I'll go to the local Hardware store.
And I will get some stainless steal washers!
Thank you, all for your valuable in put.
It is well appreciated!
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It's said necessity is the mother of invention.
Well, I looked at the top of zap-a-gap bottle top.
Saw it was shaped like a 1/6" nylon washer.
Drilled through the center and presto!
One nylon thrust washer, made up!
As soon as I have a chance.
I'll go to the local Hardware store.
And I will get some stainless steal washers!
Thank you, all for your valuable in put.
It is well appreciated!
HI Ed, Just looked closely at your propshaft, if you can knock out the bearing cut a little of the end of the tube and refit the bearing, that will increase the clearance to the rudder without removing the shaft tube, good luck, carefully protect the hull from saw cuts.
First I had to draw lines from.
One corner to the next.
This was done to get the center of the block!
But as I don't have a drill press.
The hole I drilled is a fraction off!
The tube that goes through the block.
Comes out of the hull in the right location! 😁
I then glued it in place.
And ran some polyester resin to hold the block in position.
Note:
Try to make sure that the rudder block and post. Are truly centered to the keel! I had the rudder and skeg in place!
While the polyester resin dried over night!👍
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First I had to draw lines from.
One corner to the next.
This was done to get the center of the block!
But as I don't have a drill press.
The hole I drilled is a fraction off!
The tube that goes through the block.
Comes out of the hull in the right location! 😁
I then glued it in place.
And ran some polyester resin to hold the block in position.
Note:
Try to make sure that the rudder block and post. Are truly centered to the keel! I had the rudder and skeg in place!
While the polyester resin dried over night!👍
Great news it's not a total loss.
My package was still at the post office!
Don't know how that happened.
It's scheduled for redelivery in tomorrows mail!
My build can then continue!