Hey guys, I finally got a good start on my Dumas Typhoon in 1/10 scale. This kit builds up in 2 halves which is kind of different. Although I had my doubts about alignment it came together nicely. I will update when I can, I am going to take my time on this one. I plan to use a 3660 2200KV brushless motor and 60A esc (I have on the shelf). Is water cooling absolutely necessary? I have a fan for the esc and a heat sink for the motor. Any input is helpful. 👍👍👍 Thanks RR
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Hey guys, I finally got a good start on my Dumas Typhoon in 1/10 scale. This kit builds up in 2 halves which is kind of different. Although I had my doubts about alignment it came together nicely. I will update when I can, I am going to take my time on this one. I plan to use a 3660 2200KV brushless motor and 60A esc (I have on the shelf). Is water cooling absolutely necessary? I have a fan for the esc and a heat sink for the motor. Any input is helpful. 👍👍👍 Thanks RR
I have three 30-36 inch models powered by a motor of that size with 3 S LiPo batteries. All really go like stink and I strongly suspect that your Typhoon will do likewise.
None of those models have water cooling but all rely on a car type ESC with a tiny electric fan. Hence I would suggest that you will not need water cooling - that is unless you run flat-out all the time on huge lake, or things get mighty hot in Loiseville!
Cut cut, sand sand, rub rub, file file, fit fit, now a bourbon bourbon, tomorrow will be here soon...more of the same I am sure 😁
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Thanks Dave.
I really never did a build in progress.
I saw her and had to have her. So, I built her, and later discovered Model Boats Website,
and posted the pics.
I was never big on double enders, but she is the exception!
What I love best about her was the Curtis Concore 600 Hp Aircraft engine she had for power😍😍
This is a link to build that i looked at before I built my Typhoon.
All being said, I Wiil Give it a Go! As my dear Old Mum used to say
Trev
While finishing the dash board, I realized that I have the steering column on the right side...Wrong 😞. All pics I can find of the real boat are left side drive. Except the one on the box! Did they make this boat both ways? Hopefully someone can shed some light on this for me. Thanks, RR
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While finishing the dash board, I realized that I have the steering column on the right side...Wrong 😞. All pics I can find of the real boat are left side drive. Except the one on the box! Did they make this boat both ways? Hopefully someone can shed some light on this for me. Thanks, RR
Hi Dave, probably depended on which rotation direction the final drive was. Drivers usually sit on the side opposite the torque roll tendency (outboard- usually sit on the RH side) more so in smaller boats. Doesn't matter in larger boats so much,- could be the customers preference also,- or which side of the road you drive on (to match your car😁) Here's a vid showing boats with steering on either side, including Chris Craft.
Quite so JB.
I just added the Coriolis nonsense as a 'bamboozler' for the rivet counters.
Of course engine size also has an effect; larger engine --> more torque.
Cheers, Doug😎
Good days work, finished up the interior, added a little extra detail on the rumble seat area you will probably never see. Now... On to the rudder set up... going to have to be careful with this as it's not accessible after planking. RR
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Good days work, finished up the interior, added a little extra detail on the rumble seat area you will probably never see. Now... On to the rudder set up... going to have to be careful with this as it's not accessible after planking. RR
Hey Trev, yes the panel will be removable. But it's pretty tight in there. Not sure you can access it easily. I also wonder about being water tight. 🤔 RR
Not much to report today, spent all day making the engine hatch. Now it's on to planking, My favorite part, Not! 😜 RR
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Fiddled around with the dash today. All kit supplied parts, Dumas does put together a complete kit. I supplied the 1.2mm nuts for the switches and I used UV resin to recreate gauge lenses. Happy with the results....now on to the bourbon, Cheers !
RR
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Fiddled around with the dash today. All kit supplied parts, Dumas does put together a complete kit. I supplied the 1.2mm nuts for the switches and I used UV resin to recreate gauge lenses. Happy with the results....now on to the bourbon, Cheers !
RR
Hey Duncan, those were supplied in a kit. These pictures show another way that is fairly easy to do. This bezel was drilled out, make a small styrene backing, 3v led lights, I cut the gauges from a car magazine Ad, glue them over the white styrene, UV resin for lenses, 👍 I like these better, much more detailed...
RR
Spot On, Dave!!
Here is a shot of my hatches.
I'm sorry I haven't had the opportunity to post more pics as I am trying to play catch up with my house painting before winter.
Trev
I have the sub planking on the hull. This part of the build has always been the hardest part for me. However I think I'm getting better, this one is coming out very well so far. After fairing I am going to put a coat of total boat epoxy resin on the inside and outside to stiffen up the balsa planks and seal the wood. Moving on to the mahogany planks next...lots of tapering on length and edges 😔. I will update asap
RR
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I have the sub planking on the hull. This part of the build has always been the hardest part for me. However I think I'm getting better, this one is coming out very well so far. After fairing I am going to put a coat of total boat epoxy resin on the inside and outside to stiffen up the balsa planks and seal the wood. Moving on to the mahogany planks next...lots of tapering on length and edges 😔. I will update asap
RR
Hey Dave,
Thats exactly what I used. It was the only glue that could give me the progress that I wanted.
Any other glue would have taken me forever to plank the hull.
Trev
Before I attach the deck I started out with a plywood floor for the motor mounts and electronics. Added side boards for 2s batteries, I have trays with Velcro straps for each side. Installing 2 but only using one at a time. I have an engine sound module, I drilled holes in the rumble seat dash pockets to let the sound out. I cut up an old speaker grill and covered the holes. Should not be noticed by all the "pickers". I will epoxy the deck skins on tomorrow. I will update soon. RR
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Before I attach the deck I started out with a plywood floor for the motor mounts and electronics. Added side boards for 2s batteries, I have trays with Velcro straps for each side. Installing 2 but only using one at a time. I have an engine sound module, I drilled holes in the rumble seat dash pockets to let the sound out. I cut up an old speaker grill and covered the holes. Should not be noticed by all the "pickers". I will epoxy the deck skins on tomorrow. I will update soon. RR
Hey guys, I have a question about ballast. I am fairly new at building these boats, should I install all the running hardware with 2 batteries now and do a float check and ballast adjustment before I attach the sub deck? You can't add it afterwards, just thinking 🤔 any suggestions would be great! RR
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Hey guys, I have a question about ballast. I am fairly new at building these boats, should I install all the running hardware with 2 batteries now and do a float check and ballast adjustment before I attach the sub deck? You can't add it afterwards, just thinking 🤔 any suggestions would be great! RR
Hi Dave,
I did not find additional ballast necessary on my Typhoon.
All of my hardware was installed midships. With 2 batteries forward flanking the motor.
Trev
After a good sanding I put a skim coat of Bondo to smooth and fair everything. The mahogany that was supplied is twisted and bowed but it's amazing if you select a strip carefully it kind of follows the hull. The 2 sheets aft are epoxyed on with the help of magazines and weight. All the strips will be attached with CA. So far everything is laying down nicely, this will take some time. I will update asap, Thanks RR
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After a good sanding I put a skim coat of Bondo to smooth and fair everything. The mahogany that was supplied is twisted and bowed but it's amazing if you select a strip carefully it kind of follows the hull. The 2 sheets aft are epoxyed on with the help of magazines and weight. All the strips will be attached with CA. So far everything is laying down nicely, this will take some time. I will update asap, Thanks RR
Hi Dave,
Good idea with the Bondo, it is important that the hull be fair, as the Mahogany strips are only 1/16th thick, too thin to allow much sanding.
Trev
JB
I have three 30-36 inch models powered by a motor of that size with 3 S LiPo batteries. All really go like stink and I strongly suspect that your Typhoon will do likewise.
None of those models have water cooling but all rely on a car type ESC with a tiny electric fan. Hence I would suggest that you will not need water cooling - that is unless you run flat-out all the time on huge lake, or things get mighty hot in Loiseville!
Good luck and please let us know how you get on.
Dr John F. Leeds and Bradford MBC😊😊😊