Russian K100D waterjet work boat project

Started by jbkiwi

86 updates 627 likes 331 comments
jbkiwi #41 of 87

Russian K100D waterjet work boat project

A bit more progress between other jobs. Reinforcing ribs and edge trim fitted to rear engine/jet hatches, folding mast, gunwale rubbing strip and a start on the wheelhouse interior. There is a 'roof rack' bar to go across the back of the wheelhouse which holds the siren and a spotlight still to be done.

The rubbing strips were pre bent, using boiling water run down them, wiped off, pinned to a board, bent around giant thumb tacks, and left for a few days to set, (can be done quicker by using boiling water, pinning them to shape and using a hot air gun to dry them ) - sometimes requires bending in stages if they are tight bends.

A few more improvements to the jet diversion valve system with a clever mixing idea from Graham, which now makes single stick control possible.
Liked by Martin555 and stevedownunder and
3 comments
  1. jbkiwi
    Fleet Admiral
    Hi Trev, not a lot of detail on these boats, very basic and just made for a job, like a small tow truck, but they have quite a bit going on with all the air operated systems inside. A modern jet unit would be far more efficient, but would probably be damaged where these boats work (amongst logs usually), whereas these have very little protruding from the hull to get knocked off,- a bit of a marine stock car😁

    JB
    Liked by Martin555 and pressonreguardless and
  2. pressonreguardlessSilver
    Rear Admiral
    Hi JB
    Thanks for the background.
    I always had a soft spot for work boats.
    At one of the Marinas that I managed I rehabbed a Steel Craft 25' that we used for ice breaking.
    It was powered with a 440 ci Chrysler engine. With Keel Coolers and Dry Stack.
    Trev
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jbkiwi #42 of 87

Russian K100D waterjet work boat project

Started on the cabin paint,- 2 coats of Zinsser 1.2.3 water based primer sealer, and 3 coats of auto primer . If it stops raining long enough, I might get the bottom half of the cabin painted, (grey,- same as the hull, white on top) Started on the doorway between the wheelhouse and crew cabin, and a dash area as well. I've also cut the window templates .

Bought some more cheap LEDs, -just xmas string lights in blue, green , yellow and red, - Ideal for nav lights etc and will run on 3v from a cheap VR. (only $6 for 50 with the 3 cell battery box and 3 AA batteries) - battery box can be used for other things. LEDs are can type flat top 4mm x 7mm, and just need the wiring trimmed and new smaller wires soldered onto the terminals. I could buy bags of them cheaply on line, but don't want to wait 2 months.

To store them, I just light them up in the string, mark the colours with a code, then cut them off and bag them ready for later.
Liked by Martin555 and MouldBuilder and
12 comments
  1. Ronald
    Fleet Admiral
    Push rods, check out a second hand store for aluminum knitting needles. Also wooden knitting needles make nice sailboat components.
    Liked by pressonreguardless
  2. MouldBuilder
    Admiral
    Coming along really nicely JB.
    There are no real hobby shops here in Hungary that deal in boats. A very nice shop in Budapest mainly specialises in cars and static plastic models. I tried to buy glue there. They don’t sell it. Another I found also dealt mainly in cars. This one was like entering a slightly large phone box with stock all over the place. I wanted brass rod which, to my surprise, her managed to retrieve from somewhere under the pile. So far I am just about managing as I am not too good at scratch building.
    Super project. A lot of research must have been required.😀
    Liked by Martin555 and Colin H

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jbkiwi #43 of 87

Russian K100D waterjet work boat project

Cabin exterior mostly painted, (grey and white) and grab and tie-down rails added to the wheelhouse front. Not sure if the wheelhouse roof is supposed to be grey, so will have to hunt through some more vids for the std colour. I have also cut another accessory battery slot for a second 2s to run pumps, lights, smoke or whatever.
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5 comments
  1. jbkiwi
    Fleet Admiral
    Hi Peter, not too far away, just fitting a few bits and pieces, (windows, lights etc) Still have to do the interior as well. Like you, trying to fit it in amongst all the other jobs.

    JB
    Liked by Martin555

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jbkiwi #44 of 87

Russian K100D waterjet work boat project

Decided to make a start on the lights, so did the mast and nav lights. Mast has a 1mm brass rod in a slot in the back, which all the neg legs on the LEDs are bent round in horizontal slots in the mast and soldered to. A strip of masking tape insulates that, and another rod for the pos legs is placed on top of that and the pos legs bent round and soldered to it. Another strip of tape insulates that, and the mast painted with a thick acrylic.

Leads were soldered to the bottom of the rods and another LED soldered on behind the mast at the bottom for the stern light (there is provision for a riding light to be added to the top of the mast as well) The LEDs then had a 1/2 section of black heatshrink glued to the back, and the tops painted black, to create the light sectors. The wires are run through the cabin back for the mast lights, and roof for the nav lights. 4 more lights to go on top of the light boards yet.

Also fitted the rear and side cabin windows, (front screens being painted).
Liked by Martin555 and Len1 and
4 comments
  1. jbkiwi
    Fleet Admiral
    Thanks guys, not sure if the mast lights are the correct colours, as I have no idea of the Russian system. I'm going to try and find out through YT from some Russian guys who restored one about 4 yrs ago (big job) and were using it for a towing business. They may have been conscripted and in Ukraine by now,- hopefully not, seemed like decent guys.

    JB
    Liked by Martin555 and pressonreguardless and

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jbkiwi #45 of 87

Russian K100D waterjet work boat project

Finally got round to hinging the wheelhouse door, (used cut down DuBro aircraft hinges ), - still have the door stops and handle to do. Added the cabin center rub rail and engine hatch stays. Bolted the mast base down using a 3mm machine screw through a ply reinforcing plate under the balsa cabin top.
Also added the chimney for the wood burning crew cabin heater, and attached the front screens. I've painted most of the inside of the cabin with grey Reeves artists acrylic as a base coat for a final colour (have to check vids for the most commonly used colour).

I have made up some double T plug extension leads from the power distribution board which is now in the cut-out under the main tray. This is to get the tray height down so I can make the wheelhouse and crew cabin a bit deeper. The leads are for any extras which may be added later, (ESC fan is on one plug)

Magnetic catches were also added to the engine hatches.
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9 comments
  1. jbkiwi
    Fleet Admiral
    Hi Steve, same here, mainly just doing a few bits at night after all the other jobs, and sometimes you just need a break from models as well. Have to try and get out real sailing this summer before the boats rot away.

    JB
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jbkiwi #46 of 87

Russian K100D waterjet work boat project

I've made a working door handle and a firewood box for the cabin heater, (might need a bigger one I think), and am in the process of making some combination lifting eyes and bollards/cleats (3mm brass rod and 6mmx.5mm strip.) Took some pics outside, (first sun in a while) - looking more like a boat,- more bits to go on and in yet.
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2 comments

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jbkiwi #47 of 87

Russian K100D waterjet work boat project

I've made another firewood box, as 'someone' 😉 mentioned there might not be enough wood. Should be enough now 😁 Fitted the combination lifting eyes and have started on the covers for the twin top light set-up, (made from notched ally tube and black card for the 'kick-outs' on the sides. I'll dome the tops with epoxy for a better shape. Not attached yet.
Liked by Martin555 and Colin H and
3 comments
  1. Graham93
    Vice Admiral
    Hi JB,

    I can't think who it might have been who suggested your crew probably needed more firewood 🙄 but I didn't want them to get cold 🤣😂🤣

    The more details you add, the better it gets 👍

    Graham93
    Liked by Martin555 and jbkiwi and

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jbkiwi #48 of 87

Russian KC100D waterjet work boat project

A bit more internal work done, - dash made, steering wheel, helm seat and wheelhouse 'carpet'.
Outside,- bow bollard, brass 'roof rack' bar on rear of cabin (for spotlight, radar, siren) and spotlight (from plastic tube and PVC with brass support). More lights wiring and internal floors etc to go, but getting closer to launching. Haven't had a reply (re the dual light colours) from the Russian guys, - maybe they are 'visiting' Ukraine on a compulsory holiday.😐
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10 comments

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jbkiwi #49 of 87

Russian KC100D waterjet work boat project

Fitted a linked pair of yellow Xmas LEDs behind the dash (has a slot cut in the bulkhead behind it for the light to come through) and the gauges light up quite well. Cabin lights next.
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jbkiwi #50 of 87

Russian KC100D waterjet work boat project

I received a reply to my YT question to the Russian guys about the twin top lights, but it was from an ex owner of another of the boats. He said they were white strobe lights, so that was another challenge. I've found Russians to be good at replying to comments/questions on YT about various things. Had some good replies one time, from a guy who rebuilds/ restores outboards (Jap, US and Russian,- which are sent to him from all over Russia) Interesting chap.

I've made up a strobe device of sorts from an old Acoms servo which had a snapped off output shaft. I removed the pot and put it outside, and cut the stop tab off the output gear so it gets continuous rotation, but can still be run fwds or backwards. I've hot-melted a mini micro-switch on each side and set them up to flash side to side. Not perfect but will do the job. There are 2 lights facing forwards and 2 backwards, so should look ok at night.

Power for the LEDs comes through a small Voltage regulator (3v) from an aux battery in the bow, (will power all the boats' LEDs,) and the power for the servo will come from a UBEC (5v) to avoid overloading the RX. Mounting these LEDs is going to be fun,- they will be wired in pairs to reduce the wiring.
Liked by Martin555 and philcaretaker and
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