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292 posts · Page 9 of 2528XX brushless 11.1v 2200 Lipo 35mm three blade brass prop.
Uses 30 amp cars ESC with small fan.
Tx set to 55% on throttle otherwise it takes off. Rudder throw at 50% for same reason. Switchable to 100% for slow speed manouvers.
Great fun.
Dave
Lifeboat crewe had been on a night out so not quite vertical. Aplogies for the shaky video, it's difficult to sail and video at the same time.
- lesliebreameChief Petty Officer 1st Classvery nice boat and yes it is difficult to video and sail at the same time ! try to get someone else to steer while you video !! using a tripod is best. Les BreameLiked by Dave M
- mactinChief Petty Officer 2nd ClassHi Edward, its a fine balancing act of electrolysis to hydroide gas, compression then ignition but utillising vacuum formation as an assisting force to the power stroke so effectively making it a one stroke which sounds odd.still in development ive tried turbine,oscillator pistons and hydraulic recoil as end movers but the best seems to be the straight reciprocator. its scary,how the hell can they tax water??? cheers Neil.
I did find a lot of images though.
I bought most if not all of the fittings and since have decided that the way to go is to make what you can from what I can get hold of.
So all other model boats are and will be scratch made.
I have two on the burner at the moment.
Anyway some of the Ayton Cross looks right some of it does not.
But I can always do it again as I hopefully get a little better.
This one again is awaiting Ballast and it will be ready to go.
I fitted two Engel 12 volt motors and made the mounts in grp then Laminated them into position..
Everything has been hand painted and slightly aged .
The bow thruster was made using some household plumbing pipe a small propshaft Again home made and it works very well.
Something to play with as I build hopefully better.
- Dave MVice AdmiralMobile Marine produce a kit and Model Boats did an article http://www.modelboats.co.uk/news/article/ayton-cross/473/.
The model looks authentic. Any chance of on water shots
Dave - buglerAble SeamanIf you research who the original builders were, then the plans would be most likely be available from the archives of the builders. in most cases where vessels were built in Scotland for instance, the plans, if available would be held either by the Glasgow University Archives or the Scottish Archives. Although there are costs involved in obtaining copies of the originals, it is well worth it in the long run so that the details is correct. The model looks great.
- philpjukMaster Seamanyes still clockwork,The best improvements have been made by lightening the motor, drilling holes in everything and replacing a side plate with one made of alloy.It is just a nut on the sponson, they are adjustable for incidence.It will now plane on the sponsons "unsticking" the hull.The original was built when I was 13/14,the motor came from the family gramophone when my dad converted it to autochanger/amplifier,the wood came from the woodshed but I was short of plywood and realised the back of my wardrobe was plywood and was hidden behind clothes so when my parents were out I cut the bits I needed from it!,my mates christened it "the wardrobe".Performance is down to propeller choice and is a compromise between speed and runtime.I took it to a boating pond in a nearby town when my wife needed to visit it and a council "jobsworth" told me I was not allowed to sail it,"only yachts and electric boats on here sir"no amount of reasoning would make him change his mind and he escorted me out of the park!.Liked by AllenA and RNinMunich
Length: 905 mm
Width: 145 mm
Material: poplar plywood 3mm, balsa standard 1 mm, 1 mm linden wood, laminate fabric 120gr and 43gr.
Engine: Mig 480 7.2V
bidirectional DC 7.4V regulator
Propeller 35 mm Graupner
spruce strips 2x6mm
It's a racing prop and will use lots of power hence the heat.
As you have a cabin cruiser it does not need such a coarse pitch prop and changing to a prop with a lesser pitch will improve your running time and produce less heat. Performance will depend on the chosen prop but should not be much different from what you already experience.
As you already have a water cooler inlet and outlet you could just wrap some copper tube round the motor and connect with silicon tubing to keep the heat down
Dave
Ian