Its correct in every respect and its the correct texture too.
Every single part of the kit was drawn in 3D cad (123D Design) and produced on a Forms2 3D printer. Then everything was scaled down to 1/16th scale and thse are now available from Tony Bakewell, the new owner of Speedline Models. See facebook👍
That planked hull is a work of art, and can be appreciated for what it is and the work that went into it. Painting is for hiding mistakes and filler. Regards.
I've replaced the old 6v sealed wet battery with a lipo 3s,11.1 volt 2200mhz, 100c spectrum smart battery. so the 1st run was cautious i just fired up the centre prop to see how she performed, well i was surprised at the turn of speed she had on just 1 prop, and how well she planed, it was a little awkward filming and controlling the boat by myself as i was the only one pond side. this was not without mishaps though, see 2nd video
After checking the boat over she was found to be unmarked and no bits missing, not bad to say she hit the pontoon at full speed, took off and plunged back in at the other side.
So the second run i started on the centre prop and then opened her up on the outer 2, she shot forward and immediately stalled, dead in the water. luckily i could reach her with the ponds barge pole to pull her to the side. i found the fuse had blown , i had fitted a 20amp mini flat fuse, i didn't have a 30amp only another 20amp which blew just as quick, upon opening up the outer props.
any ideas anyone or will a 30amp do the job, or a 2s battery? help any suggestions considered.
Roger
Hi Ronan
Thanks for your input.
Its starting to make sense now.
I bit the bullitt and bought a lipo battery and charger. I ended with a spectrum smart 2200mhz,3s, 11.1v,100c.i had a choice of a 30c but thought it may not be man enough for 3 motors so looked at the 50c, but was out of stock, so i ended with the 100c it was the same price as the 50c anyway. The charger was a spectrum smart type to. This monitors the battery and hopefully does everything automatically.
Once again thanks for your help and encouragement
Roger
Hi Roger,
You are learning well! A similar road to the one I travelled a couple of years ago.
Hard to see the fuse block on my Brave now, but here is one am assembling for my next project. Got my fuse blocks off Banggood, they offer both 4 and 6 fuse ones.
Used a 6 on the Brave as wanted a fuse per motor, currently using 30 A capacity. Should protect the 50 A ESCs. Bigger fuses and even re-settable ones can be fitted into the block if warranted.
The home made buss bar and battery connector are visible.
Hope this helps.
Rowen
100C should be more that adequate, mine is 30C. You should be able to drive a welder with it too!
Part 1. ideal conditions; nearly 30°C, cool Bier at hand😜
Sea Scout built by Dad in the early sixties with a Taycol Target and 6V lead acid wet cells (very wet😡). Renovated and dragged into the 21st century over the last several months 😉
See Build Blog 'Sea Scout 'Jessica'' for details!
Motor: Propdrive 2830, 1000kV, 30mm 3 blade Raboesch prop. Quicrun 16BL30 (30A) ESC with BEC.
Tested with 3 battery types, all started with 99% measured capacity-
1. NiMh 4.2Ah 7.2V, nom. 408gm.
Result: Speed sedate (OK 😉scale river cruising!) No planing.
Max current: 3.6A
End status V / capacity left: At end of short run ca 3 mins. 7.78V 99%.
2. 2S LiPo 4.0Ah 7.4V nom. 257gm.
Result: Speed still sedate but due to lower batt weight at least the forefoot came out of the wet stuff! Max current: 4.1A
End status V / capacity left: At end of short run ca 3 mins. 8.25V 93%.
3. 3S LiPo 4.0Ah 11.1V nom. 315gm.
Result: Now we're getting somewhere!!😁
Good speed, manoeuvrability and planing 😊 Max current: 7.5A
End status: 11.95V 74% after several long runs, ca 20 mins total.
Estimated (extrapolated) endurance on a 4Ah LiPo around one hour - mostly 'full bore' - 'Pedal to the metal man' 😊
See also:
The competition!
Final run. (Beer was getting warm😁)
Cap'ns log entry:
Boat dead-weight w/o battery: 1.8kg.
Spray rails to be added!😲
Slight list to port to be trimmed.
Rudder servo to be reversed!!😲
Keel protection to be added: some scratches and flaking from stony sloping shore 🤔
Summary: much as expected👍 Forget anything less than 3S.
Anyone want to buy a batch (4) of new 2S 4Ah 45C Lipos? 'One careful owner'!
Happy boating people, Cheers Doug 😎
PS Many thanks to Camera girl Gisela 👍
Recorded in 1080p HD.
Hi Will,
The videos were all taken at stage 3. 'Now we're getting somewhere' with the 3S LiPo.
As depicted in the report there wasn't anything worth filming on either the 7.2V NiMh or the 7.4V 2S LiPo. Plod plod boring! I wasn't really surprised. I just wanted to know 😉
Cheers, Doug 😎
I built this model during four long years. my Lulonga is nearly whole scratchbuilt model (about 75 cm long) except the steering wheel and position lamps.
The model has a plywood and balsa hull construction ,plywood decks,from hard polystyrene sheets made superstructure,laminated with veneer. Sidewheels with skew paddles, two DC 12V independent electric motors with gearboxes controlled by ESC. Electric LED lights, steam sound module, sirene and horn.Tx/Rx 6 channel HK 2,4GHz.
completion expected in spring 2014
More infos about building you find at > www.paddleducks.co.uk <
Martin, the bumper sticker says, "if you can read this, I've lost the boat"😁, It was lots of fun
playing and an excuse to get outside after the rain..😁
I wanted to try the driveshaft brake I'd recently fitted and thought I might as well do it on an actual ramp. This ramp has around a 30deg slope so it was a good spot for a test. Tried it with just the trailer first, (don't want my boat model disappearing down the ramp at high speed) and it worked well. I've done another vid where I but a 3kg water bottle on the trailer to simulate the weight of the boat, and that also worked well (although it's a bit scary when 13lbs starts rolling down the ramp backwards.
Lost the trailer a few times going over a big join in the ramp ( forgot the tow ball lock nut) so had a few goes to get it right. I was surprised how well a piece of string round the driveshaft could hold that weight so easily. Only negative is that it's not as good in forward, (would need another wound the opposite hand on the shaft) but that's not as important as reverse control. Still waiting for the weather and tides so I can try another launch. This ramp's not bad, but a little rough !
RC Sailing No.118 - Out of Lockdown ! . 4th April 2021
RC Sailing No.118 - Out of Lockdown ! . 4th April 2021
Forgot my gloves ! - Forgot to charge the boat ! - Forgot how to set Gopro ! - at least we got a few clips of video - out of lockdown al last !.
Nice to see Bill & Ben back sculling on the Pavilion Gardens in Buxton !.
We've all done that sort of thing, Ian, 😁, I've got to the flying field or pond on numerous occasions, only to find I've brought the wrong battery, (or forgotten it) wrong TX (have 2 almost identical HK TXs) forgotten spanners, screw drivers, -you name it.
Well, it's been 6 months since the last video at SMBC... but we're back at the lake tomorrow with Scale & Sail (if it's windy) and socially distanced on the lakeside... so hopefully we will have some footage to share of the boats, maybe even some new boats? in the meantime here's a link to the last video I did. Enjoy
Finally got a good day to try the new brushless motor. Boat goes 100% better now (if a bit noisier) 3s 25c 2200mAh liPo got a bit too hot, so probably need to up the C rate to 40 to keep it cooler (maybe install a fan as it's closed under the seat) It's pushing a 6lb boat with a 26mm jet with a 3000kV brushless so it has an excuse to get hot, (only got down to 3.7V/cell after that run, so not too bad). Runs with a more scale look now which is what I wanted. Took a bit of experimenting, but got there in the end. Thermostatic cooling fans for the motor worked well, and within 10 mins the motor was cool. Only used around 2/3 throttle so as not to stress the coupling too much (you can hear it protest a few times, - silicone tube slips slightly making it squeal)- automatic rev limiter😁
Sorry, vid is blurry again ☹️ (original's fine -HD) but something happens when it goes through my movie editor then to YT. Keep procrastinating about getting a better camera (or maybe it's just the editor. - More experimenting, this is getting tedious😐
Hi Ron, haven't spent a huge amount due to the fact that all the electrical bits are very cheap ($1 ea for a voltage reg, $8-12 for a pump, $30 ea for a motor (bought 2 as the first was not fast enough) and jet unit, $15 for the ESC, a few JST plugs and wire, $3 smoke pen, few lengths of silicone tube etc, plus balsa and f/glass, -probably not a lot more than NZ $200. A lot of things you buy of course like resin and paint, usually have to be bought in bigger quantities than you would use on one model, and may be used on other projects, so it's hard to work out an exact cost. I think the hull was the most expensive part, due to the cost of balsa and resin.
Mostly a lot of time, (hate to work out the labour cost on any model at going rates,- probably in the thousands)!
Set the new Surpass 3000KV 36 diam finned in-runner up in the boat, and did a tank test. Lots more power than the HV brushed 1200kv 550, but with higher idle. Re-did the reinforced silicone coupling and fitted a small collar to the inner end of the motor shaft to hold the tube from moving forward against the motor, as with the extra torque of the in-runner, it was trying to twist the tube off the shafts. Seems to be hanging in there static which is a promising sign. Once running, the load will come off which should help.
Runs full at around 4A and the battery holds at around 3.8v/ cell )alarm is set at 3.6 for safety, (as a sort of rev limiter) performance should improve a bit now. Have to wait till tomorrow as the restrictions end at 6am Sunday, (then have to hope for good weather for the test) The prop in the jet is a 28mm 3 blade racing prop which I modified to fit. Don't think I'm going to get much more out of the jet unit without it exploding😁, (it's only plastic I think, not GRP), - might have to buy a back-up and fit it with better quality bearings etc. If the jet was in the usual 'plastic' 24" toys it would be a rocket, but it's pushing 6lbs which is a challenge😀
Note the police chase outside in the background😁- always action around here, lots of hoons in cars😁
More changes, (not again you say😐) this time the original nozzle was re fitted, as I found that the very clever improvement I made, (a flasher, smaller, better fitting brass one), wasn't so clever after all (can't be brilliant all the time😁) and was restricting the flow. The performance was quite a bit better today (still not startling) and it seems obvious now that MORE POWER will be the next step (have a higher KV, 35 sized brushless coming on the sampan to try).
Had a chat with a long time expat UKer (ex British army) at the pond today, and he mentioned that he has an Aerokits fireboat 'kit' still in the box he hasn't started, (you might be able to hear the conversation) and that he was modelling in the 60s in the UK, running diesels in his boats. He was sailing a Kyosho Seawind today (as was the other guy),- and they look like a nice little yacht, and sail well.
Every single part of the kit was drawn in 3D cad (123D Design) and produced on a Forms2 3D printer. Then everything was scaled down to 1/16th scale and thse are now available from Tony Bakewell, the new owner of Speedline Models. See facebook👍