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74 posts · Page 2 of 7You can barely see it!
But, there's actually steam coming out of the Smoke Stack!
Simulated of course! LOL!
- figtree7ntsAdmiralHi Steve,
All is well Thanks!
Also thanks for the model and sound!
Cheers, EdLiked by GeoffJStreeter and Martin555
Smoke, water and air are ready to go,- just waiting for some V regs to come via sampan.
- jbkiwiFleet AdmiralHi Pete, the throttle is mode 1 on the 9x. I usually use a 6ch HK6DF which I've converted to twin throttles for the MTB, HSL and ST (was bought as mode 2 but converted to mode 1 and modified to twin throttles). I bought 2 of those a few years back before they changed to inside aerial and digital trims, (basic 6ch, - one for small planes and one for boats) I think they were also a Fly sky with HK stickers, but they have been 100% reliable. I needed a bit of programming ability with the jet unit (end points ) for the bucket and a few more switches for lights etc, and with only one motor in this boat the 9x was perfect. I use it for planes as well and have about 6 models on it.
Left stick rudder is used for arming the smoke/water/air timer which Graham built.
JBLiked by Martin555
I Need to waterproof the pushrod holes in the transom but the bellows I bought are too stiff and compress too much, so I'll have to come up with another method, (probably some deflectors for a start. Only a problem when in reverse with a bit of throttle on. Plenty of power with the 2s I was using, but motor is rated 12-24v so it would scream, -even with a 3s. I'll start with 2s and see how it goes. Might have an initial blast on the lake this week if all goes well, although I'd like to finish the deck bits first.
Just waiting for some Voltage regs to come so I can complete the electrical side with the fancy bits.. The mechanical and electrical sides are as good as done, Grahams timer is working perfectly, with the water pump and air pumps hooked up (going to install a VReg on each one plus the smoker).
I'll be using the small 5A voltage regulating bucks in the models (the ones shown are just for testing) with one 2s LiPo running 2 regs,- one for pump, and one through the timer for the smoke pen. You can see the timer working with no input from the TX in the vid, When fitted, both will be switched on/off simultaneously with the solenoid 'latching' power on/off, circuit (thanks to Graham for the layout) using the left stick.
JB
Having done press setting in my early days, I remembered that a big press we used to set had a hydraulic capacitor which helped get the ram moving (pretty much what electrical capacitors do for motors etc) I started with a common party balloon with no container and knew Graham would be interested, and it progressed from there. As usual, Graham has done a fancy bit of electronic control on his, with solenoid and timing and has it working nicely.
(just received my new solenoid which I will be adding in due course)
Balloon is stopped from filling by a micro switch to the air pump and air is released by solenoid at whatever timing you need (depending on how well your smoker can keep up). If the system has no leaks, the 'capacitor' can hold air indefinitely, ready for use, and will re-fill automatically, (pump only runs to re-fill) This idea can be modified to suit anything (guns, exhaust startup and run, steam to simulate steam whistle etc) Balloons of all shapes can be used eg -(long thin sausage balloons could be fitted inside a tube if space is an issue).
With a good air pump, the 'capacitor' will fill quite quickly and some good pressure can be achieved.
JB
- jbkiwiFleet AdmiralAlways thinking of improvements and new gadgets Martin, which might be useful for new model builds. At least Graham and I have got it pretty much sorted, so people can do modifications to suit their particular models. Main thing is that these devices are cheap and simple to make (in basic form) which is the whole idea, and can give your model that little bit extra. Most bits can be easily sourced from Ali Express/ Ebay etc.
JBLiked by Martin555 - Martin555Fleet AdmiralHi Jb,
"these devices are cheap and simple to make (in basic form) which is the whole idea".
I fully agree thanks to you and Graham and your fantastic experiment.
Martin555.Liked by GeoffJStreeter and jbkiwi
JB
- Martin555Fleet AdmiralHi Jb,
Ref:- "liquid duck poop is pretty corrosive"
That did make me smile.
I used to always take a large bottle of fresh water with me for washing down my boats lake side and other members used to laugh at me but at least i knew that my boat was nice and clean ready to be put away ready for next time.
Martin555.Liked by jbkiwi - jbkiwiFleet AdmiralHi Martin, certainly necessary if using small brass or copper cooling pipes etc as they tend to get a bit of corrosion after a few years. Always wsh my boats down with mild detergent in a spray bottle and paper towels after running them (surprising how pond water stains if you don't). I wish I'd just wrapped the HSL inrunners with copper coils instead of fitting the fancy cooling jackets, as you are never sure what's happening to the painted steel motor casings inside, (hence the penetrating oil)! The motor end cap screws are probably welded in by now😀.
JBLiked by Martin555
Air, and a small amount of the cooling water are mixed by venturis just short of the exits (the air pushing the smoke and blowing the water clear of the smoke tubes). I've fitted the same system into my ST but am still waiting for the air pump from China (postal system problem there, then Chinese new year holidays with new rules apparently) Get the odd bubble at rest but with the low exhaust you can't have everything.
Latest vid with boat in the tank.
JB
JB
- mturpin013AdmiralHi JB this looks good , what pumps did you use and where did you pipe them into the systemLiked by Martin555
- jbkiwiFleet AdmiralHi Mike. I used 2 mini air pumps (3v) same as the one you are using, (1 per side) Drawing is of method used but without the smoke (as mentioned,- no room) and just running an extra line from the cooling pump instead to the smoke/air exit. The larger 12v pump I tried (see latest smoker attached to exhaust pipes vid) works a lot better and is quieter if you have the room.
JohnLiked by Martin555
JB
Don't need any more smoke than this for most applications I would think, but it's there if you need Mt Etna. Might see if I can get some lower wattage coils to drop the amps. I've ordered a few different 5A regulators to try, but I think fans are going to be needed to cool them. I think this is about as small as you can make these, using this method and easy to find bits and pieces, as you have to leave a reasonable air gap so as not to melt the housing, (also to pack the cotton around the coil)
There are the pre-wound coils to try next which might be able to be fitted in a smaller metal housing, but that's for later. I'm sure everyone has the idea by now and it will be interesting to see what others come up with for their particular models.
JB
- jbkiwiFleet AdmiralHi G6, yes, I removed the whole device. It was cooked due to a short/over voltage when the voltage buck threw a rod. Wired it up direct with another buck turned down to 2v. I'm going to try some other coils to drop the amps and have fitted a 12v fan to this buck to help cool it.
JBLiked by Martin555