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574 posts · Page 2 of 48- LewZAdmiralChum444, is your "stuffing box" the size of the large diameter tube under the large filler and the rest of the shaft slips into the shaft tube? If so, the sealing area seems kind of small.Chum444, is your "stuffing box" the size of the large diameter tube under the large filler and the rest of the shaft slips into the shaft tube? If so, the sealing area seems kind of small. My preference is to have a fairly large sealing area. For example, using the attached drawing, the two ends where the shaft slip fits into are each about 5/8 inch long leaving a long void between the shaft OD and the tube's ID. [EDITED: this area is filled with the sealant lube.] Thus I have no problem with leakage when the entire shaft is below the waterline. Lew Florida ⛱️, USA 🇺🇸[{"id":"172383497353","name":"172383497353","caption":"","url":"https:\/\/beta.model-boats.com\/media\/172383497353\/l","thumbUrl":"https:\/\/beta.model-boats.com\/media\/172383497353\/s","isImage":false,"ext":"file"},{"id":"172383497273","name":"172383497273","caption":"","url":"https:\/\/beta.model-boats.com\/media\/172383497273\/l","thumbUrl":"https:\/\/beta.model-boats.com\/media\/172383497273\/s","isImage":false,"ext":"file"}]
My preference is to have a fairly large sealing area. For example, using the attached drawing, the two ends where the shaft slip fits into are each about 5/8 inch long leaving a long void between the shaft OD and the tube's ID. [EDITED: this area is filled with the sealant lube.] Thus I have no problem with leakage when the entire shaft is below the waterline.
Lew
Florida ⛱️, USA 🇺🇸 - LewZAdmiralAlso... as you can see in the photo, the prop shaft is horizontal and sits about 2 inches (50mm) below the waterline. No leaks if you make the stuffing box long enough and use the right sealant lube.Also... as you can see in the photo, the prop shaft is horizontal and sits about 2 inches (50mm) below the waterline. No leaks if you make the stuffing box long enough and use the right sealant lube. Lew Florida ⛱️, USA 🇺🇸[{"id":"172384910426","name":"172384910426","caption":"","url":"https:\/\/beta.model-boats.com\/media\/172384910426\/l","thumbUrl":"https:\/\/beta.model-boats.com\/media\/172384910426\/s","isImage":false,"ext":"file"}]
Lew
Florida ⛱️, USA 🇺🇸Liked by SimpleSailor and Razor1955 and
The boat at 1:54 and 3:12 does not have the usual V8 as you would expect, but has a 4 cyl Mercruiser motor, not as the drive motor, but as a generator running 3 high output alternators powering an electrical system for twin electric motors, (round black objects seen in pic, in front of petrol motor). Shafts run each side of petrol motor, Has large control boards on each side for each motor. Boat and laminated wooden trailer designed and built by the owner, Took 2000hrs to build,- absolutely immaculate workmanship.
Also a short vid on an Auckland ferry trip I took while waiting for the liner Queen Victoria to
depart
JB
- DRN001Able SeamanLooks great with some fantastic boats, hope the weather holds out as I arrive on the 27th, to late for the show but my mates will be there for sureLooks great with some fantastic boats, hope the weather holds out as I arrive on the 27th, to late for the show but my mates will be there for sureLiked by jbkiwi and stevedownunder and
- philcaretakerCommodoreWhat a fantastic event at one of the best harbours in the world !.What a fantastic event at one of the best harbours in the world !. Looking forward to seeing the SailGP down in CHCH (Lyttleton) 23-24March😊😀😁 Stay safe JP 😎
Looking forward to seeing the SailGP down in CHCH (Lyttleton) 23-24March😊😀😁
Stay safe JP 😎
- roycvFleet AdmiralHi good idea, have you been out on the water yet?Hi good idea, have you been out on the water yet? I have several 12 -18 volt motors the size of a 550 and run them on 6 -7.2 volts and they will turn over a big prop 45 - 50 mm. This looks good on a cargo ship where you can almost watch the prop turn over. They do not get hot and have a low current drain. Bonus is they are often cheap! Also I can use slightly cheaper NiMh batteries of about 3300mAhs. I have a few Pittman motors originally scrounged out of computer tape decks 40 years ago. They are almost silent and work really well. I always check for hot batteries or motors as I do not want current diverted from the motor to heating up the drive train. Following a friend I have also found a cheap and effective and silent U/J. It is plastic flexible tubing about 3/8ths inch diameter in less than 2 inch lengths. You can use it in place of the Huco U/J, keeping the brass inserts on which it is a tight fit. Or if you have a threaded shaft a largish pair of nuts locked together with the tubing forced over them. They need to be in a straight line and a few fast forward and reverses settles the tubing into position. The drive is silent and efficient and good for up to 20 watts or so. regards Roy
I have several 12 -18 volt motors the size of a 550 and run them on 6 -7.2 volts and they will turn over a big prop 45 - 50 mm.
This looks good on a cargo ship where you can almost watch the prop turn over. They do not get hot and have a low current drain. Bonus is they are often cheap! Also I can use slightly cheaper NiMh batteries of about 3300mAhs.
I have a few Pittman motors originally scrounged out of computer tape decks 40 years ago. They are almost silent and work really well.
I always check for hot batteries or motors as I do not want current diverted from the motor to heating up the drive train.
Following a friend I have also found a cheap and effective and silent U/J. It is plastic flexible tubing about 3/8ths inch diameter in less than 2 inch lengths.
You can use it in place of the Huco U/J, keeping the brass inserts on which it is a tight fit. Or if you have a threaded shaft a largish pair of nuts locked together with the tubing forced over them.
They need to be in a straight line and a few fast forward and reverses settles the tubing into position. The drive is silent and efficient and good for up to 20 watts or so.
regards
Roy - flaxbybuckCaptainI would agree with others, viz. use a smaller prop. When a motor gets hot it normally indicates too high a resistance from the prop, so try a couple of smaller sizes and monitor its performance.I would agree with others, viz. use a smaller prop. When a motor gets hot it normally indicates too high a resistance from the prop, so try a couple of smaller sizes and monitor its performance. Good luck😉
Good luck😉
Very pleased with how well it performed. It is very sea worthy even riding the swells left by passing full-size runabouts.
The only issue was the motor was extremely hot to the touch. This could be caused from the wrong prop.
- RodCLieutenant CommanderRonald, the prop is actually 1-3/4" ... in the photo you hav indexed the left blade to the end of your ruler, not the "0" point on the ruler. My 33" PT109 calls for a single 1" plastic prop to reach scale speed. I think you need a smaller diameter & much less pitch to alleviate your motor heating issue. Heatsinking, & watercooling or a fan will not fix your issue.Ronald, the prop is actually 1-3/4" ... in the photo you hav indexed the left blade to the end of your ruler, not the "0" point on the ruler. My 33" PT109 calls for a single 1" plastic prop to reach scale speed. I think you need a smaller diameter & much less pitch to alleviate your motor heating issue. Heatsinking, & watercooling or a fan will not fix your issue.Liked by Homdadream67 and RonBMK2 and
- BarrySWarrant OfficerShe certainly handles well in the water. That would be a nice one to enjoy cruising around with. From the video it looks like the velocity is more of a speed boat rather than a dory.She certainly handles well in the water. That would be a nice one to enjoy cruising around with. From the video it looks like the velocity is more of a speed boat rather than a dory. Nice job! Barry
Nice job!
BarryLiked by RodC
Here is the real Miss Katherine as you will find her today should you visit Mahone Bay, Nova Scotia. She has been in the boat yard for over 15 years.
It was from these photos that the model was created by me.
Ron Bauer
Great for when the pond is full of weed - Also if no wind , stick a motor on the front or back !.
Just have fun !
- CashrcAdmiralLike your sub!! We have several sub guys in our club, at least one of them uses 2.4. He runs an extension for his antenna up the sail (conning tower) and hides it in either the periscope or antenna. His boats are static divers, but he stays at periscope depth when he submerges. The boats set up to blow ballast and full up planes if he loses contact. Not trying to criticize anything you’re doing, just letting you know 2.4 is doable with restrictions. Most of the ponds here in North Texas are too murky for much below periscope depth anyway.Like your sub!! We have several sub guys in our club, at least one of them uses 2.4. He runs an extension for his antenna up the sail (conning tower) and hides it in either the periscope or antenna. His boats are static divers, but he stays at periscope depth when he submerges. The boats set up to blow ballast and full up planes if he loses contact. Not trying to criticize anything you’re doing, just letting you know 2.4 is doable with restrictions. Most of the ponds here in North Texas are too murky for much below periscope depth anyway. Anyway, good luck with your sub! Let me know how it turns out. Cash
Anyway, good luck with your sub! Let me know how it turns out.
Cash - Hhager2LieutenantI had thought of a float with antenna but in he end use a MHz transmitter was easier. I had sold all mine so I picked up one from eBay. Actually I wound up with two one AM one FM. FM worked better. The dc motor controller was from a car as it had reverse capability plus switchable micas or LiPo. The Ghz band gets water attenuation so it won’t work under water well. Bathtub test showed at least a few feet under was ok. Only thing o don’t like is you seal electronics so it has to be really tested. Battery is on a plastic box like that can open fir access but I put a soda bottle cap structure to access charge connector anyway it’s funI had thought of a float with antenna but in he end use a MHz transmitter was easier. I had sold all mine so I picked up one from eBay. Actually I wound up with two one AM one FM. FM worked better. The dc motor controller was from a car as it had reverse capability plus switchable micas or LiPo. The Ghz band gets water attenuation so it won’t work under water well. Bathtub test showed at least a few feet under was ok. Only thing o don’t like is you seal electronics so it has to be really tested. Battery is on a plastic box like that can open fir access but I put a soda bottle cap structure to access charge connector anyway it’s funLiked by HappyHaggis and taffy
rotating motor and fan unit with rudder which was added later. Gopro was mounted on rotating servo which gives 360vision.
Camera operated with phone using Gopro App.
Regarding filming techniques etc. - Still plenty of issues to improve and overcome along the learning curve !.
Mni Tnx Graham for being there with "Bill & Ben" and Jon G7NFK for all your previous help and support since my stroke.
#rccameraboats
#rcsailing #rcboats #bmbc
- jbkiwiFleet AdmiralGetting pretty flash now Phil 👍👍👍 a big improvement on No 1!Getting pretty flash now Phil 👍👍👍 a big improvement on No 1! JB
JBLiked by Dumaspittman
- DumaspittmanPetty Officer 1st ClassThanks for the motor advice! I appreciate it!👍Thanks for the motor advice! I appreciate it!👍
- BrightworkCommodoreComingComing[{"id":"166198200670","name":"166198200670","caption":"","url":"https:\/\/beta.model-boats.com\/media\/166198200670\/l","thumbUrl":"https:\/\/beta.model-boats.com\/media\/166198200670\/s","isImage":false,"ext":"file"}]Liked by Dumaspittman and pressonreguardless and
In the 1940s and 50s, many traditional Thames Sailing barges were converted into motor barges. This is a model, based on photos and my memory of the 'Nellie'. The sailing barge 'Nellie' was built by Cremers at Hollowshore, Faversham in 1901,. She traded under sail carrying about 90 tons of cargo around the Thames, Medway and Swale until about 1952 and then had the gear taken out, a Chrysler Crown petrol/paraffin motor installed and carried on trading for some years owned by R.Lapthorne & Co of Hoo on the River Medway.. She was eventually sold out of trade and is now privately owned. She has been rerigged with a reduced sailing barge rig without a topsail. My model is based on a 30" barge hull from Dave Watts Mastman.
NOTE More information from Nerys - read on ........
Hi Phil,
I'll just add a little more information to that. I was Nellie's skipper in the mid 50's for a few years. We were based at Hoo on the Medway and carried cargoes around the Medway, Swale, Thames and Colne. Regular trips were such as ballast from Fingringhoe on the Colne to Hoo, sand from Upnor on the Medway to the Ford works at Dagenham, fertilizers from London to Faversham and Queenborough, wheat from London docks to Whitstable and more or less anything that could be carried between ships in the London docks to anywhere in the Estuary. We were paid by the freight. Half the value of the carriage charges going to the owners and the other half to the crew, shared 2/3 for the skipper, 1/3 for the mate, Then fuel and other expenses were divided up similarly.
Nellie, of all the barges I served on was the one I liked best. She was the smallest, but there was just something about her. However as a footnote, in the 1970's I built a forty three foot schooner rigged barge yacht in the same yard as Nellie was built.
- NerysFleet AdmiralYes, Nellie visited Buxton. We had been on holiday in the Lake District and on the way home, made a diversion into Buxton. We were made most welcome by the members we met and particularly by Phil and Graham. Enjoyed a nice little sail with Nellie. Made a pleasant interlude in an otherwise long 300 mile drive.Yes, Nellie visited Buxton. We had been on holiday in the Lake District and on the way home, made a diversion into Buxton. We were made most welcome by the members we met and particularly by Phil and Graham. Enjoyed a nice little sail with Nellie. Made a pleasant interlude in an otherwise long 300 mile drive. Cheers, Nerys
Cheers, Nerys - NerysFleet AdmiralThank you, Phil, for making the video of my little Nellie. Thought she looked really good.Thank you, Phil, for making the video of my little Nellie. Thought she looked really good. Nerys
NerysLiked by Dumaspittman
Still getting used to the new editor so the vid's a bit scrappy. Almost impossible on a weekend to find the right space with no people, but there is not a lot of choice without going for miles. Fun trying to drive 2 vehicles,- truck doesn't have a handbrake like the jeep, so a bit tricky backing down the ramp. Whole outfit is 1.5m long, and weighs around 12kg.
- pressonreguardlessRear AdmiralGreat Job, JB.Great Job, JB. I can't imagine handling all facets at once! Trev
I can't imagine handling all facets at once!
TrevLiked by jbkiwi and stevedownunder - Graham93Vice AdmiralHi JB,Hi JB, I’d be happy to come and be your assistant, provided you could afford my airfare 😂 It would be possible, I think, to operate both models from one Tx by adding some custom electronics to each model. This would need to operate like an RC switch controlled from a spare channel. One one model, the ‘switch’ would connect the servos and ESC to the Rx whilst at the same time on the other model, a switch would disconnect the servos and ESC. Operating the spare channel would reverse the state of the switches to allow the other model to be controlled. Graham93
I’d be happy to come and be your assistant, provided you could afford my airfare 😂
It would be possible, I think, to operate both models from one Tx by adding some custom electronics to each model. This would need to operate like an RC switch controlled from a spare channel. One one model, the ‘switch’ would connect the servos and ESC to the Rx whilst at the same time on the other model, a switch would disconnect the servos and ESC. Operating the spare channel would reverse the state of the switches to allow the other model to be controlled.
Graham93Liked by Dumaspittman and stevedownunder and