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205 posts · Page 14 of 18- hutchinsonRecruitHiya mate ,I too gave up building while I waged war with cancer,but I'm back. I find its Impossible to stop boat building and sailing .That looks a superb model very well built.Ismail a 4 foot chemical tanker.took me 2 years.
This model has now been sold and replaced with a newly built Canadian Coastguard Griffon 2000TD built off a Mark Porter plan but using two Graupner Speed 600 motors, one powered by a 3000 Li-Po battery for thrust and the other on a 7.2v Ni-Cad for lift.
- Chris BLeading SeamanI have just got the plans to build this from MHA
Any info you have on your build, would be much Appreciated
good looking model by the way 😊Liked by Skydive130
Vic Smeed plan Thornycroft took about 20yrs (on and off) to complete and has an Electronize 43HX 24v 15A controller, 2x 400 sized 6-12v brushed motors 4cell 3000MAh LiPo for main power with seperate 3 cell LiPo running a computer fan for cooling (fan is linear and sucks air through the boat from the front hatches and blows it out through the rear hatches) There are also seperate 3 and 4 cell AA NmH packs for nav and interior lighting.
Boat runs 28mm 3 blade props and runs at a realistic scale speed and attitude. Radio gear is 2.4 and I have modified one TX for twin throttles and at present am running both these boats simultaniously on the one TX.
Have bought twin car ESCs, batts, RXs and BECs for the PT and the (36") British Power Boat 64ft HSL I am building (modelled on the RNZAFs 64ft HSL- the only one sold in the southern hemisphere - in 1940) Went on board as a teenager before she was ruined by being turned into a pleasure launch so it was a help with the building. Still remember the wonderful alloy 'Power Boat' stair treads down to the ward room. Will get some pics up of the HSL as well.
Full working red & white leds on deck and cabin , lynxs helicopter with working rotor blades with landing lights. Working radars, bofor gun , A ships whooping sound . Runs on two speed 700 motors off a 12volt gel sell battery which give a good 1hr sailling time . Controlled by a 50 amp speed controller with two brass propshafts behind good size rudders which give a excellant turn .
My model HMS Avenger is a copy from the real ship in which took part in the Falklands war in 1982. Painted in the same grey with a green deck . She looks great on display or on the water . Avenger gets a lot of interest from the general public . please enjoy looking at the photos shown at Sheringham & Eaton park Norwich Norfolk .
" thank you .. A Prestney
- rustypistonLeading SeamanOutstanding piece of model building. As a plus it's an unusual subject, not typical of what most folk build. it's too bad these pictures aren't larger, your detail work is exceptional.
- Dave MVice AdmiralNice to see a scale model of an actual ship. Detail work looks outstanding and I agree with the previous comment re more detailed pics. Seen on the water she looks very realistic. As you have working lights a night time shot would be good 😀
A build blog of your next model would certainly encourage others to get building.
Very well done 😀
The first photo shows the boat as it was bought from an E Bay auction in late February for the price of 14.50, for that price I had to bid on it, even thought I had a new kit of the same model on order from a model shop from the end of December, before VAT went up. The models turned out to be the 4 feet versions some 11 inch wide and now is about 19 inch high. This model turned up several days before the new kit turned up, and was a bit worse for ware than anticipated as the deck had started to part company from the hull. After stripping the deck of all remaining deck furniture the deck was re laminated to the hull, prop shafts and rudder tubes also refitted using plenty of resin and cloth. A rubbing strip was fitted around the deck hull line to tidy up the visible damage. When I was happy with repairs the hull and deck was rubbed down and sprayed. Using the information in the new kit and some photos of actual boats, MJB's (My junk boxes) supplied all the required parts to scratch build 90% of the models fittings as seen, this includes the figures on the deck. These being obtained off an EBay site as 1/24 unpainted train scene figures that required some or may be a lot of adjustments to their appearance. Several items have still to be made and fitted. As I'm working on her sister boat P147, will make extra parts in one go.
The boat has twin electric drives, the motors, MFA 919D series, are fitted with their own 2.5/1 gearboxes and they drive 40 mm three bladed conta rotating brass props. They have independent 15 amp Electonize speed controllers run from two 7.2 volt packs in series. The switching arrangements for lighting has still to be finished off. Don't know if I'll fit a sound system as the boat is for my grandson.
The boat has had several trips on the Society's water at Cwmbran with myself and my grandson at the helm. it seems to go fast enough for him. (The new boat P147 has been built with triple screws.) Can't wait to see both models on the water together.
Hope you have enjoyed the pictures and information.
Regards
GreyWolf
- wilsonAble Seamanhi
I have just bought a home made model just like this one of ebay it is home built and built to a very high standard it had a glow engine in a one stage but by the look of things I dint think it has seen the pond , I was wondering if you could help me out by sending me some detailed pic's of the deck and fittings please
my email is (Email Removed - PM Only)
thank you for eny help ho can give
wilson
- Dave MVice AdmiralHi
Nice to see your model. I built the US Coastguard model and use similar motors and ESC. Lipo's were not common when built so I used a 12v 1.2amp sla. Goes well on the water but duration is not very long. I have a pair of brushless motors and controllers and intend to fit with Lipo battery. it would be nice to see pics of your model on the water.
Dave - vaderswarLeading SeamanHI Dave, Sorry for delay in replying, taking boat out on water for trials today will let you know how got on. As to changing to brushless, good idea I use brushless in a lot of my models, but if you have MTroniks escs you can use a lipo upto 3series (11.1v), they say this on their own website, so you could still use same motors with 7.4v lipo but change the esc. the only downside to using lipos is having to add more ballast to get waterline which is what going to find out today. Regards Steve
- Bryan-the-pirateMidshipmanVery nice, you may have noticed my restoration of a 1950s-60s kit
Do you still have yours?