Windows, stoopid question.

Started by Westquay
60 replies 44 likes 0 followers Last activity: 8 years ago
#11

Windows, stoopid question.

Oh, PS, the last one. With the shape of your windows I wouldn't think uprights would be in there. That shape window is more likely to be a drop in type, where the top of the window can drop inside by a couple of inches at the top in triangular guides at the side, so you wouldn't really see it on the model.

Cheers,
Martin
#10

Windows, stoopid question.

Haha, I bet you're better equipped than that, but you really need a piercing saw and a selection of blades.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YNR-Adjustable-Piercing-Fret-Saw-Frame-Jewellers-to-fit-Blades-50mm-to-125mm/331184149177?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20151005190540%26meid%3D34f33063c43f4320b8605afc038ff24e%26pid%3D100505%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D331184149177&_trksid=p2045573.c100505.m3226
Here's a f'rinstance. Others are available. I'm sure Conrad will have them. They cut the finest curves and although with a vee block you can do what silversmiths do, I have always used the vice jaws as a guide, which is why I'm on my 7th vice or so. I have completely worn them away! I use them for my junior hacksaw cuts too. You really must make some smooth jaw covers or get a smooth jawed vice. Less than perfect, but good enough ones can be had from ebay too.
I even put the 1mm styrene in the vice to file the radiussed corners, once I've cut the straight lines. I then make a straight cut across the corners and then file them while the styrene is in the vice.
Here's the framed windows I did yesterday. Haven't done much today as I had to MoT test the car, which failed, alas. So that's in tomorrow for the work to be done as my son-in-law no longer mends cars, even family ones.
Also here are the brass gutters over the cabin windows, some of which need the apertures to be cleaned up, before final painting.

Cheers,
Martin
Liked by Ronald and Donnieboy and
#8

Windows, stoopid question.

I had so much trouble with windows my new computer is a Mac...
Liked by Fred and figtree7nts and
#7

Windows, stoopid question.

Many thanks Martin, some good tips there 👍
Didn't quite get the dummy screws with a sharpened tube bit though?
I'm only a dumb 'lecktrickerer' 😲
Thought I might use some short 0.5mm stainless steel planking pins. Wodja fink?
Only thing is, I ain't got no piercing saw, and my vice jaws always leave marks. Guess I better make some ally jaws for it first 🤔 Got some 2.5mm ally I could use for that.
Anyway, so I was thinking of using my mini milling machine to cut the frames. Can do the outer edge on the scroll saw😊
Got some decent 1mm ally from Conrad (or was it Krick?)
Last question 😉 Should I put a vertical in the middle of the frames or just go round the edge? Cheers,Doug 😎
PS all my Swiss files got big 'oles😁 in 'em!
Young at heart 😉 Slightly older in other places.😊 Cheers Doug
#6

Windows, stoopid question.

Doug, I could indeed and should have splooshed the frames over in one hit, but I didn't have the spray gear out and it's just so hot I don't want to be outside, but I could get the frames cut out indoors in the cool, so being impatient I did that. OK they're all done, but I will have to brush paint them. I am now going to get the spray gear out to have a crack at the main spray jobs. Good job my neighbours are half deaf.
If I were you, I would do ally frames for that sweet little Jessica. Desrves it. Dummy screws put on with a bit of sharpened up fine tube. A sheet of K&S Metal Centre ally, which is bloody good stuff, cut out with a piercing saw used in a vice and you'll have some seriously nice frames. Make a styrene pattern for the outside shape first. Cheap, easy and quick. Transfer to the ally and draw a line about 2-3mm inside it. That's your cut line. Keep it close to the vice jaws and you shouldn't suffer any distortion. Clean up with Swiss files and polish.

Cheers,
Martin
Liked by Donnieboy and RNinMunich
#5

Windows, stoopid question.

PS to 'windows'. The roof on my Sea Scout ain't stuck down cos I need access to the 'engine room'. it's held on with 5mm diameter neodymium magnets. Hasn't 'gone independent' while underway yet 😊
Ciao, Doug 😎
Young at heart 😉 Slightly older in other places.😊 Cheers Doug
Liked by Donnieboy
#4

Windows, stoopid question.

Thanks Martin, was time consuming and fiddly but; if a job's worth doing ....
Good idea with the styrene, got lots o that as well in various grades.
Will watch with interest how yours turn out👍
I had wondered though what polished alu would look like; either 'reet neece' 😉 or cheapo 🤔! May in the end still go for mahogany, more fiddly but I like a challenge 😊
Still looking for suitable crew for 'Jessica'.
Cheers, Doug 😎
BTW: you could always spray all the frames in one swoosh before you fit the glass 😉
Young at heart 😉 Slightly older in other places.😊 Cheers Doug
#3

Windows, stoopid question.

Very neat job, Doug.
On the front windows of the Crash Tender the material is 1/16th Perspex and I've done pretty much what you have, mark, saw and file to fit, but of course the missing window frames have to be made up, so I did them in 1mm styrene, of which I have a huge stock, thanks to the generosity of Ivan at IP Engineering when he was starting the Vintage Model Boat Company and I was designing kits for him.
What I've then done is glue the glazing to the frame material and will have to hand paint the frames with the same paint as the superstructure. Not ideal, but I can't see any other way. At least the unit just pops into the hole. On the 3mm ply cabin windows I will have to do what you have when I can find some 3mm Perspex. I have some somewhere. There are no visible frames on those, contrary to what the fittings companies might say, only gutters over the tops which I can do with brass wire.

Thanks for the confirmation of DON'T DO IT!

Cheers,
Martin
Liked by RNinMunich
#2

Windows, stoopid question.

Evenink Martin,
On ABSOLUTE NO ACCOUNT fit windows before prepping and painting 😡
I did all the painting and lacquering first (see 'Sea Scout' Build Blog). Then used the windows 'oles to mark templates for the windows. Which I then transferred to 3mm tinted perspex / acrylglass and cut out on the table scroll saw. Also answers your second question, only mine were green tinted not grey. Despite careful marking and cutting still had to fiddle about with filing to get 'em to fit right 😡
Pics 1 to 3 show fitted windows still with protective film.
Pics 4 to 6 film removed but still to be polished.
7th pic; Les pièces,
8th pic; ze glue 😉
I chose 3mm 'glass' a) to match the 3mm ply of the cabin walls - makes it easier to get a flush fit, b) could get it in green tint 😊 Think there was also grey and red !!!! Red for a 'Fun' Boat perhaps 😲
Glue used; Deluxe Materials Canopy Glue; "Thick, flexible glue. High grip.
Dries clear. Fills gaps." Here endeth the advert😉
Last pic shows final result after polishing. Maybe sometime, when I haven't got more interesting things to solve and build, I'll make some alu or mahogany frames! 😉
Happy glazing 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎
Young at heart 😉 Slightly older in other places.😊 Cheers Doug
Liked by East-RN and Ronald
#1

Windows, stoopid question.

Hi, because it's too damned hot to move, I'm gonna sit here and ask as really dumb question.
How do people get windows into things like cruisers or Crash tenders, MTBs, etc?

Do you stick em behind the panels before the roof goes on, risking all the grubby muck and bullets of rubbing down, filling and painting? Do you stick them to the window frames, then stick the whole assembly in? But what about when the frames are painted with the panels? What about making them dark grey so you don't see through them?
I can only think of painting the model first then cutting the windows very accurately and sticking them in somehow so the glue don't show. I dunnow....never had to do it before!

What do you inveterate builders of glazed box structures do?

Martin

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