I built a cart for taking the boats from the truck to the pool.

Now that we’re contributing to the subject, I have another question related to transporting and launching our models.

In my case—and I hope some of you are in the same situation—I have a beautiful lake within walking distance of my home where I can launch my model. The problem is that I don't belong to a club nearby, so I don't have access to the nice launching docks and platforms that many clubs have.

I have a stern-wheeler, and because of the way the paddle wheel is arranged, I would need to put her into the water stern first. I can walk the model down to the lake, but I'm trying to figure out the safest and easiest way to actually get her from the shore into the water.

I know some of you use launching pads, docks, slings, cradles, or launching trolleys. I've also seen some very clever homemade solutions.
So, what do you guys use to launch your models from the shore?

I'm particularly interested in ideas that would work for a larger, heavier model like Juanita, where I can launch her stern first without putting the paddle wheel or other delicate details at risk.

I'd love to see pictures of your launching setups if you have them. I'm sure there are some very clever solutions out there!

@ColRay
You have the best post about this subject. 100 Point for you.
I can see you now caring your model to the pond under your arm.
That is so cool.

@AustinG I have one with Lead acid batteries total wieght of boat 40 pounds plus 15 pounds of ballist I hate moving it. Colin Acher sailboat and takes up my whole car it has to be layed on its side and it has one motor in it with operating sails.

@bruce1946 I have similar problem its 48 by 12 by 15 with 12volt battery weighs about ten pounds.

Thank You Dodgy for the information.
I will check it out

@chugalone100 If you work for a display company then twinflute should be easy to obtain. They use it for all sorts of signs - estate agents boards are often made of it. It's quite structural on its own, but equally you could make a wooden frame and cover it with the plastic...

My biggest box is 42"x12"X12" - but I don't think I would have a problem up to, say, 48"x18"x18" with Correx. It's strong, and very light, which is useful if the boat is heavy. If it's really heavy - uses a car battery, for instance - you might want a wooden framework, and it's always useful to be able to take down any tall masts or radio aerials. Much bigger than 48" and you are really looking at a coffin...

Theses are all over 36 inches and 18 inches tall. 12-16 inches wide. Boxes are not doable, due to the hieght of the masts.

@Fishercat that's what my car looks like I do have a cargo net across the front in case of hard stops And use bugee cords over them but they get damage from the cords.

@DodgyGeezer

In my case, my model measures 42” long × 10” wide × 21” high, so it’s a bit of a beast to transport! 😄

My Juanita currently rests on a custom-made plastic cart, and I’m planning to build a box/crate with a handle and a flip-down door. The idea is to roll the cart with the model right into the box and then pull it back out when I get to the lake.

At the moment, I’m still making drawings and working out what will be the best way to carry this huge model safely and conveniently.
After all, I work for a display company, and I have plenty of samples and materials around that I can adapt to the model.

I’ll post all the details once I have the design worked out. Hopefully, I’ll come up with something that doesn’t require a forklift! 😂

@Fishercat
WOW Fishercat, you got a Truck load of models there. Many ways to have fun.

In general, I just place them in the back of the car and drive very gently. I DO insist they be lengthways in case I have to brake hard.

BUT - one day recently, I had to drive for well over an hour with a 120cm model (Mountfleet Ben Ain). I put a triangular pillow either side of the boat, keeping it pointed straight forward. I had a medical emergency and crashed - the boat shot straight forward and suffered astonishingly minor damage. Mostly, I just to repair details on the side of the cabin from when it bounced off and repair the foremast rigging where the shrouds all popped loose. The fiberglass hull was undamaged and all was repaired by the end of the week. Now, all I need is a new car.

My boxes are all made from Correx - often called 'Twinflute'. Cheap, robust, simple to make for a variety of sizes. Full instructions and a build log here: http://eezebilt.uk/box1.html With flat handles they stack well, can be thrown around (to a limited extent!) without internal breakage, and can even be stored in the damp if necessary...

I have a trolley I made myself that fit the boot of my last but one car. I used ex-wheelchair wheels about 12 inches dia. on 5 pounds pressure to act as suspension. Large diameter wheels give a smooth ride, I once converted a shopping trolley and it shook everything up so that some bottleneck attachments got lost.

In the car it is seats down and a few cushions and make sure there are no hard bits that can move and hit anything inside. Difficult making it all idiot driver proof but so far, no problems. Photo is 20 years back when I had a straight back and no worries and dark brown hair.
Roy

Bruce My pond okay it really is the harbour is about a couple of minutes walk away, so I tuck the boat under my arm * Col

* that will be once the puffer is finished