Plus Xanax and a healthy amount of antacids!!!😂😂😂😂😂

Make sure you have done the necessary weights training to be able to get her to the water!!😁😁

Fantastic!

Slow Progress, but sweating the details...for now. Hating white metal, but DeStefan 3D will make me 16 ape winches in 1:100 scale. Bless him!
Tub test tomorrow, sans superstructure and boom works of course.
Shaking in my boots either way.
🤞😉

Toradog, thanks for the link.

Hi Jumpugly, you're right to do all the tests in the water before fixing the superstructures.
You're doing a great job but I really don't envy you now.
Placing many small parts is a very repetitive and patient job. These are my least favorite jobs in modeling.

Roy, she’s a shade over 50 inches long (127cm). It’s been like building a surfboard; although fun all the same.
I am going to run a 35t motor with 7.2 nicad 6 cell. I suspect she’ll be faster than what I need , but considering the immense amount of ballast I’ll need (anywhere from 6 to 9 pounds?!) am hoping for a decent trade off in order to cruise.

TD, I missed my chance to load the keel void with lead shot. Although I could feed it through the bottom. I want to avoid that as the bottom to the water line is fiber glassed. So, a properly shaped piece of sheet metal attached to the flat bottom may be the direction I go…or maybe a lead flashing tape. Not sure yet, but the float test in the tub should answer some concerns. BTW the Missouri is still a dream kit for me.

Until this stuff is sorted all deck work from now on will have to be put on hold or at least not secured in place. Fortunately, non of it is secured. Whew!

Onwards! 😉

Jump,
Lead flashing works really well too. If I remember correctly, I fill the keel void with lead shot. That worked well too, although it may have been Missouri that i did that way.
I remember the Matson Line. Classics!
I had a GW model too, for Germany, I could not get her to work, but others did.
You are taking me back....😊😊😊😊

Hi Jump, I am enjoying this thread and you are building a great model. Have you already said how long your model is?
She looks a good deal longer than my offering.

One of the things I like to watch is the slow running propeller as she goes along. Brushed motor and a 4 bladed 45mm dia. brass prop. Current is very low and she runs for ages on just 4.8 volts 2Ahr sub-C cells.
These were recovered cells from other duff battery packs.
I have recently bought a spot welder for doing a better job of making fresh battery packs. It runs on 2 LiPo batteries but yet to be tested but recommended by an electronics professional.
Regards
Roy

Amen Roy! It's a constant source of terror at this point.

Tub tests next week, but a shaped piece of sheet steel or lengths of bar stock on the flat bottom may be what saves me, not far off from your cure (albeit minus some very brave cutting by you!!!) and Alessandro's suggestion too.
More gingerbread below.
😉

Hi Jump make sure she will sail upright! The small freighter in my previous post was originally a Glynn Guest model of Noggsund at 24 inches loa.
I ignored building with balsa and used a lot of available obechi / bass wood I had.
The result was top heavy and would only float on one corner or the other. I went through the options and eventually decided to saw her in 2 and extend the hull length by one third, which looked about right.

This gave me an increased displacement and I cemented a sheet of lead in to the base and she now floats upright.
The sailing version is from Internet, the other is my sawn up one.

Roy

And we're off. Railings and details...oh brother, gonna take some time. And heavy box of about 150 white metal parts arrived from St Lukes Hospice Thrift Store in Essex. The rest of this heavy winter will be spent sorting all of these bits. That's if my eyes and arthritic fingers can make it happen.
🤞😉

Love the Navsource stuff. Thanks TD!

When I was a kid we lived in Hawaii for three years while my dad was in Vietnam. When he was in between tours we’d go hang around Pearl Harbor. The Matson Line, that operated out of Honolulu, owned a C-2 (built as the USS Sea Pegasus) they first named her the "Hawaiian Planter" and then Matson renamed her again as the“Pacific Trader” before conversion to a container ship. I am going to name my C-2 that.

In a side note: I also saw our first SSBN the George Washington motor in. Scared the shit out of me. It was a huge Black Sea monster looking thing.

But, my Matson fascination was more borne out of the fact that after my father’s second tour he was discharged and we took the Matson Lurine Ocean Liner back to the mainland.

Pix below.

😉

Sorry, try this:
https://www.navsource.org/archives/10/02/02idx.htm
😁😁😁

Jump,
You may enjoy looking here: C-2's start around AKA 89 or so. Many pages have close-up images that may help you with your rigging. Just ignore all the boring grey paint.😊

Roy!!! This is a huge help as the instructions are not as intense as I'd like them to be. I have already gotten a bag of DuBro micro hinges that will fit the bill; at your suggestion I might add! Many thanks!
👍😊

Hi Jump I found this picture of an individual crane on its King post. Articulates at the base using tiny aileron hinges in a tube. With various blocks and hook, I think the uprights were old telescopic aerial pieces, abraded and sprayed. It is about 4 inches high.
regards
Roy

Jump, yer a freaking artist. She’s looking very nice. You did a good job below decks too!! You’ll have fun with this one.
Cash

Hi Jump,

internals look pretty tidy to me, if you want to see the opposite, check out some of the spaghetti in some of my models😊 Re magnets, I've found they are ok if you can keep them away from the RX a reasonable distance, just to be sure, and use the minimum size you can manage. I have a number of 6-8mm magnets on some models (including planes for hatches), and they haven't been a problem, even as close as 100mm to the RX, and I tend to fly miles away from myself for some reason. Ship's looking great so far. 👍

JB

Gentlemen! Thank you!
More testing will occur from variable distances and I will report back on this. The tub test for ballast adjustment will be the next major test for me. Hopefully the hurdles will not be too tall.
😉

I agree with Toradog.
However, if you think that the magnetic field always has consequences on electric charges, inductances and ferromagnetic materials, you also have to consider whether these effects are so mild as to be totally irrelevant.
At a certain distance the magnetic field of a permanent magnet is practically zero.
Let's also consider that your magnets are not moving.
However, when we can't think of anything we can always do some tests before fixing everything.
Jumpugly, see if your radio receives all the commands without problems. I think so but trying doesn't cost anything.

Ah Jumpugly, I forgot. I like your electrical setup so tidy and clean.

Jump,
God\od question. No I do not believe that you are over reacting, just thinking ahead. I have not heard of magnets, even rare earth ones, cause radio issues. They are used frequently in airplanes and I have never heard of an issue there.
That said, I would not mount a receiver using REM's. I prefer Velcro. I think you will be fine.
My sub is beginning to drool!😁😁😁

Mechanicals...about as neat as I can do them. The rear and poop decks that cover all of this are held in place with cabinet magnets.
Yet, I had to supplement the poop deck with two strong 1/4" rare earth magnets in addition to the cabinet ones. But then I had a panic attack...will these small magnets interfere with my receiver and/or transmitter, or am I overreacting?
Opinions appreciated.
🤔🤔🤔

Commodore all good on our end. Just hate to loose a great 2017 Toyota RAV4, 209,000 miles and perfectly maintained. But, we found another with 50k miles.

I love HO scale trains, but no longer run a track. But really enjoy building dioramas in that scale. But, I’m really liking your layout!!!! Wow!!! You may have motivated me to change my hobby tactics!

Sorry to hear about the car, Get her a nice new one. Those thing happen all the time, no one was hurt.
Did you say you have HO trains? So do I.

Hi Jumpugly, damn I'm sorry your car is damaged but I'm glad no one is hurt.
Congratulations on the progress, accuracy and speed.

Railings ordered and trial fitting continues…still miles away, especially with booms, winches, and rigging.

Cars for me have to be big enough for a rigged yacht, comfortable and light on the petrol.
Sorry to here of the loss of your Rav 4 nice car, I had a Honda CRV for 16 years until it crumbled underneath, nice and comfy.
Thanks for the kind words for the cargo boat, it is very simple just looks nice on the water.
Roy

🤑😁🤑😁🤑😁

OK T.G. don't start me off with fishnet stockings!!! Plain tights donated by my wife.

But the memories linger, suspenders.......
Off to sea for a few days so that will b****r up my Q o D stats.
Roy

Roycv,
Did you use fishnet stockings for your hatches, and were they knee highs or the other?
I suppose that you could have used garters to keep the stocking on your hatches...😁😁😁😁
Oh, this is going no where....

ROY!
I am sorry for the radio silence.
Some stoned young lady drove her car over an embankment and it landed on the hood of my wife's RAV4. Thankfully my wife had parked the car and was not in it. But, our car is a total loss and I have spent the last three days sorting the claim, rental, and a new (used) car search. Fortunately, all have been settled and...

I promise to tread lightly on the lingerie requests! 😉
But honestly, the hatch work you did is spot on, I love it.
What a beautiful build! Thanks for sharing it with me.

Hi I cover my hatches with nylon stocking stretched in place. I then thin some varnish down and this holdes the nylon in place. Paint as you want and then stick on thin darkened wood hatch coverings.
Best ask nicely for the discarded nylons!

(joke) Ever since my wife found some lady's panties in the glove compartment I have had to wear nylon underwear!

You can just make out the 2 hatch covers.

regards
Roy

impressive.👍👍👍

Thank you TD!
What I didn't know is that 1930's C-2 freighters had canvas stretched hatches over oak frames that folded up like closet accordion doors. A cost and weight saving idea that worked.
A little weathering when the time comes and hopefully they'll look a bit more scale down the road.
😉👍

She is coming along really nicely. Styrene was a good choice for the super. I really like what you did with the deck hatches. 😛😛

More and more beautiful!
Jumpugly=the styrene wizard. It's a skill I would like to have too.

Trial fitting the superstructure. Starting to look like a real ship!
👍😉

Thank you for your kind words Commodore!
I am rifling through my HO train stash for a couple of packages of old steps and ladders. We think alike!
The HO railing search is underway as I type this.

The balsa bits I've actually used have to be primed and sanded twice to make them even a little bit useful! The styrene save me despite the work involved.
😉

You doing a beautiful job. Keep up the good work.
Good decision not to use the dried up balsa wood. That stuff wasn't even too good when it was new. It is difficult to get a good paint finish on balsa wood.
I am not good at all with plastic and prefer to use plywood.

The railings contribute greatly to the overall appearance of a model. I would look a HO trains and see what you can get.

😋

Plastic, plastic, plastic:
I cut about 45 pieces of plastic to match the die cut balsa bits in order to rebuild the superstructure. A pain in the ass, but with more shaping, trimming, hole filling, and detail sanding I think I will be able to get this work sorted enough to make it look nice.

The biggest problem was adapting the plans that were originally set up for 1/8th balsa and retro fitting it with 1mm styrene. I ran from the 60 year balsa because it was hairy (excessive grain lifting), dry, and splitting and would have required more priming and sanding than I wanted to deal with right now.

I was skeptical that I would be able to make this work, but for getting the basic structure laid down I think it's ok and I can save this pass. I'll then tweak it to hopefully satisfy myself. I don't know...maybe. We'll see.

🤞😉

Hi Roy! Believe it or not I still have a bunch of old Dubro and Williams Brothers hinges laying about from the old days…a capital idea! Let me see what I can do with the myriad of crane booms that will have to get sorted.
👍

Hi Jump, a few years back I used tiny aileron hinges about a cm. long as the base of a crane mast. The hinge sat in a close fitting tube which enabled the crane to revolve and angle up and down. They are about 2mm. diameter and very strong.

Your boat /ship is coming along very nicely.
Roy

A weekend of struggles, but I made some headway. All electronics working well was a huge relief. The trial-fitting of the three crane masts is ok for now or until I decide to scrap them. I was quite happy with reproducing the 1930's style canvas hatch covers with #18 embroidery string, finishing resin, and very fine fiberglass overlays. The die cutting is decent as evidenced in the second picture, but styrene sheets are on order to replace these hundred or so mini bits! However, I did preserve the superstructure decks and primed and painted them.
Onwards!
😉

Thanks Jumpugly you are very friendly.

No worries at all Alessandro. I consider everything a free-for-all and always a place to share and learn. I learn something new everyday and that’s what makes this site great.
😊👍

Jumpugly excuse me because this digression on engines is diverting attention from your topic which is the construction of your beautiful naval model. It was not my intention.
Now, to overcome this problem, I will move the whole topic to a new one.
In this way, whoever wants, can write comments, corrections, additions on that topic without bothering this one.

Hi Chum444, thank you for the kind words you said.
I am very happy that the text I wrote is appreciated.
If the appreciation comes from a qualified person like an engineer I am doubly satisfied.
I also did the little experiment of the coil that rotates in the magnetic field (in fact it is quite easy to reproduce) when I wanted to explain this topic to my son years ago.
The practical demonstrations and animations (thanks to dedicated software) make understanding much easier.
Perhaps my merit (if I can have one) is to identify with those who have very little knowledge of electronics and look for an explanation (among the many existing ones) that is as easy as possible.
Certainly wanting to delve deeper into the Lorentz force with mathematical demonstrations and physics lessons requires a different degree of learning and a higher level of knowledge.
However, for our purposes I do not think it is at all necessary.

Hi CommodoreH, I'm very glad you enjoyed the content of the text.
Your opinion always means a lot to me; thank you very much.

Hi Roy, thanks for the appreciation.
Your posts always contain useful content and a lot of information. It's a shame that they get lost over time.
I often think: "this topic was covered by Tizio and this other Caio" but I can't always find them and when I do, it's with great difficulty.
With all your ideas, suggestions, tricks and memories of past experiences (if collected) we could make a nice little manual, very useful.
If you don't mind, I'll include your method (which seems like a really good suggestion) in my text.
Of course, I'll write that it's your idea.