Hi Guys,
Due to a few personal problems i have not been able to do much but here is a little update.
I knocked up a Samson post and a few deck cleats.
The Deck cleats were made the same way as the cabin top hand rails.
Martin555.
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Hi Guys,
Well there is not a lot i can say about this as i covers most of this in a How-To.
However i connected the radar to a receiver position that is controlled by a potentiometer on the Transmitter so that it slowed it down a little more.
I have it rotating the in the opposite direction to what i planed but i can always change that latter.
Martin555.
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Martin, I haven’t seen the whole blog yet, but what I’ve seen/read so far looks good! You’re getting to be a regular plastic fabricator!!
She’ll be a keeper once you’re done I’m sure of it.
Cash
Hi guys,
Today i had a little tinker in my little workshop and decided to strip down another damaged servo to use as the Navigation light control switch.
After removing the PCB, Motor, and Potentiometer from the servo casing i then unsoldered the motor leaving just the potentiometer and PCB.
I then joined the Port, Starbd, and Masthead lights together (Cathode to Cathode Anode to Anode, + to - ) then connected them to the two wires that controlled the motor.
I also fitted a 12R resister in line to dim down the LED's.
The LED controller was then glued in place using Hot Melt glue.
Then i centred the Potentiometer.
Connected the controller to the receiver and now i just flick the switch on the Transmitter and the Navigation lights come on.
You can also use this system to operate two LED Circuits by Connection another set of LED's but reversing the polarity of the LED's
The beeping sound in the video i the Transmitter battery getting low.
Martin555.
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Hi guys,
Today i had a little tinker in my little workshop and decided to strip down another damaged servo to use as the Navigation light control switch.
After removing the PCB, Motor, and Potentiometer from the servo casing i then unsoldered the motor leaving just the potentiometer and PCB.
I then joined the Port, Starbd, and Masthead lights together (Cathode to Cathode Anode to Anode, + to - ) then connected them to the two wires that controlled the motor.
I also fitted a 12R resister in line to dim down the LED's.
The LED controller was then glued in place using Hot Melt glue.
Then i centred the Potentiometer.
Connected the controller to the receiver and now i just flick the switch on the Transmitter and the Navigation lights come on.
You can also use this system to operate two LED Circuits by Connection another set of LED's but reversing the polarity of the LED's
The beeping sound in the video i the Transmitter battery getting low.
Hi Martin.
Brilliant explanation and you are quite correct.
Good use of redundant parts.
Your post was simple and to the point,explained exactly what you meant in simple terms.
Just what the members want….don’t over complicate it 👍👍
Rest easy.
Regards Bill
Hi Guys,
Quick update,
Made and fitted a couple Fairleads.
Fitted Life Rings.
Made and fitted a couple of mane boards.
I may have a go at the windows next.
Martin555.
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Hi Guys,
The windows in this model kit was a little bit disappointing, the window frames are 3D printed plastic and the gazing part is 0.25mm clear plastic sheet.
I first removed the frames from the template sheet.
Then placing the clear plastic sheet over the appropriate window template and then cut the four state edges first then with the aid if some nail clippers i then nipped the corner radius.
Care must be taken to get the clear plastic to fit in the frames as you only have a few mm of lip for the clear plastic to clue to.
I then used UHU clear glue to glue the clear plastic to the frame’s
I used CA glue to glue the frame’s to the superstructure.
Again you only have a few mm of lip on the window frame’s to glue to the superstructure.
It is almost imposable to do this stage without getting light scratches and marks on the clear plastic.
My next stage will be to paint the window frames white.
Martin555.
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The windows in this model kit was a little bit disappointing, the window frames are 3D printed plastic and the gazing part is 0.25mm clear plastic sheet.
I first removed the frames from the template sheet.
Then placing the clear plastic sheet over the appropriate window template and then cut the four state edges first then with the aid if some nail clippers i then nipped the corner radius.
Care must be taken to get the clear plastic to fit in the frames as you only have a few mm of lip for the clear plastic to clue to.
I then used UHU clear glue to glue the clear plastic to the frame’s
I used CA glue to glue the frame’s to the superstructure.
Again you only have a few mm of lip on the window frame’s to glue to the superstructure.
It is almost imposable to do this stage without getting light scratches and marks on the clear plastic.
My next stage will be to paint the window frames white.
Hi Red,
I decided to hand paint the windows frames.
I took a change and painted without masking off.
Just keep holding my breath at each stroke of the brush.
By the time i finished i was blue in the face and seeing stars LOL!!
Hi Guys,
Well i think i will call that it for this one.
Just need to ballast and test in Big Blue.
I think i have achieved the original request.
(The plan is just to make something that is functional and pleasing to the eye, something that will not be complicated and not have lots of bits that could brake off )
Altho i did not stick to the instruction as such i have tried to build this in a way that showed the kit and it’s assembly.
For the price the kit it is good value and goes together well, hopefully i have shown the good and slightly not so good bits of the construction.
The small errors that were found had been forwarded to the kit manufacturer and hopefully these will be addressed.
As you guys know i have not made a boat using wood for many many years, so i am quite pleased with the final outcome.
I hope you enjoyed this build and that it will encourage others into this great hobby.
Martin555.
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Hi Guys,
Well i think i will call that it for this one.
Just need to ballast and test in Big Blue.
I think i have achieved the original request.
(The plan is just to make something that is functional and pleasing to the eye, something that will not be complicated and not have lots of bits that could brake off )
Altho i did not stick to the instruction as such i have tried to build this in a way that showed the kit and it’s assembly.
For the price the kit it is good value and goes together well, hopefully i have shown the good and slightly not so good bits of the construction.
The small errors that were found had been forwarded to the kit manufacturer and hopefully these will be addressed.
As you guys know i have not made a boat using wood for many many years, so i am quite pleased with the final outcome.
I hope you enjoyed this build and that it will encourage others into this great hobby.
Hi Guys,
Just a little modification.
A good friend and member pointed out something that could end up being a problem later.
He suggested that a support is fitted to the outer prop shaft tube.
So this was knocked up and fitted and a quick flick of paint and you would not know i cocked it up in the first place LOL!!
Martin555.
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Just a little modification.
A good friend and member pointed out something that could end up being a problem later.
He suggested that a support is fitted to the outer prop shaft tube.
So this was knocked up and fitted and a quick flick of paint and you would not know i cocked it up in the first place LOL!!
I still have more to do but the end is now in site.
Martin555.