Please forgive me if I am starting to sound like an 'anorak', but the more this build goes on the more excited I get!
Having resolved (excuse the pun) the problem with the oversized dowel, I have now (almost) completed both masts.
The tapering of the upper parts was a bit hit and miss but the id's of the various mast rings was a good guide. Once again, there was a lot of white metal, but I was able to file most of it down to get a reasonable finish.
The rigging diagrams were okay, but it would have been most helpful if the lengths of thread could have been indicated on the plan, particularly where things like double blocks were used. I have ended up ordering more thread to be on the safe side. However, it was good to be able to use the blocks and belaying pins in the way in which they were intended!
During my many visits to youtube and other build blogs of Resolve, I found a noticeable lack of cross trees on the foremasts. I had almost decided not to go ahead with the crosstrees when I realised that all the other boats were built as civilian vessels. They had not the same requirements for signal halyards and flags as my RN version? (RNinMunich - what do you think Doug?)
There are a total of eight lamps on both masts , which I intend to electrify and will be including in a separate block for lighting.
There are ratlines on both masts which I thought would be quite easy to make. The plan says to fix the ratlines to the shrouds using clove hitch knots. As the ratlines are no thicker than cotton thread, no messing with knots fo me, I would use superglue! The vertical shrouds would be laid on A4 lined paper and the lines would indicate where to glue the ratlines. When finished any surplus glue and paper would be tweezered off leaving a perfect finished item. What a load of b******s ! Glue and surplus paper everywhere - in the bin!
I built a wooden frame on top of A4 lined paper and being careful to keep the shrouds and ratlines away from the frame and paper ended up with a reasonable result. I propose to source some 'climbing' figures to attract the eye to them and not the ratlines.
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Please forgive me if I am starting to sound like an 'anorak', but the more this build goes on the more excited I get!
Having resolved (excuse the pun) the problem with the oversized dowel, I have now (almost) completed both masts.
The tapering of the upper parts was a bit hit and miss but the id's of the various mast rings was a good guide. Once again, there was a lot of white metal, but I was able to file most of it down to get a reasonable finish.
The rigging diagrams were okay, but it would have been most helpful if the lengths of thread could have been indicated on the plan, particularly where things like double blocks were used. I have ended up ordering more thread to be on the safe side. However, it was good to be able to use the blocks and belaying pins in the way in which they were intended!
During my many visits to youtube and other build blogs of Resolve, I found a noticeable lack of cross trees on the foremasts. I had almost decided not to go ahead with the crosstrees when I realised that all the other boats were built as civilian vessels. They had not the same requirements for signal halyards and flags as my RN version? (RNinMunich - what do you think Doug?)
There are a total of eight lamps on both masts , which I intend to electrify and will be including in a separate block for lighting.
There are ratlines on both masts which I thought would be quite easy to make. The plan says to fix the ratlines to the shrouds using clove hitch knots. As the ratlines are no thicker than cotton thread, no messing with knots fo me, I would use superglue! The vertical shrouds would be laid on A4 lined paper and the lines would indicate where to glue the ratlines. When finished any surplus glue and paper would be tweezered off leaving a perfect finished item. What a load of b******s ! Glue and surplus paper everywhere - in the bin!
I built a wooden frame on top of A4 lined paper and being careful to keep the shrouds and ratlines away from the frame and paper ended up with a reasonable result. I propose to source some 'climbing' figures to attract the eye to them and not the ratlines.
Dear redpmg
Yes, I find the fumes from glooper sue quite irritating and it does stiffen the joint as you say. I did try water resistant pva in my initial experimentations, but it did not dry quickly enough for my patience.
I do find pva extremely useful for rivet heads and the like, once again using a cocktail stick to apply and painting the appropriate colour when dry.
Please don't apologise for teaching grandma again - all tips and tricks gratefully received!
Steve
Thanks for posting the detailed photos of the mast and rigging, I am starting to scratch build some mast and boom details, your photos are of great help.
The build is coming to an end, sad in a way, but so looking forward to seeing her on the water.
Fitting and rigging the funnels was pretty straightforward, but once again with an eye for detail, even a lever to operate the steam whistle. This will be attached to the flying bridge once in place.
Using 0.7mm steel wire, painted matt black, makes it so much easier to get the tension right in the rigging wires.
Though not on the plan, I propose to add wire 'grids' (is that what they are called Doug?), to the tops of the funnels to finish them off.
I found the awning an interesting build. The first problem was that I had not been accurate enough when drilling the holes for the brass rod supports - I needed to re drill one or two to get them in line. However, once aligned correctly, fitting the wood strips for the roof was quite straightforward.
The 'canvas' cover is kitchen paper stiffened with diluted pva, rolled up and painted with acrylic.
The fixings on the apex are drops of pva, allowed to dry and painted matt black.
(Sorry if I'm "teaching granny.....", but I hope it will help some in future builds).
Once the lifeboats had been glued in place they were rigged with double blocks and tied off to one davit by a toggle (which was a tiny separate part). Again, an eye for detail.
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The build is coming to an end, sad in a way, but so looking forward to seeing her on the water.
Fitting and rigging the funnels was pretty straightforward, but once again with an eye for detail, even a lever to operate the steam whistle. This will be attached to the flying bridge once in place.
Using 0.7mm steel wire, painted matt black, makes it so much easier to get the tension right in the rigging wires.
Though not on the plan, I propose to add wire 'grids' (is that what they are called Doug?), to the tops of the funnels to finish them off.
I found the awning an interesting build. The first problem was that I had not been accurate enough when drilling the holes for the brass rod supports - I needed to re drill one or two to get them in line. However, once aligned correctly, fitting the wood strips for the roof was quite straightforward.
The 'canvas' cover is kitchen paper stiffened with diluted pva, rolled up and painted with acrylic.
The fixings on the apex are drops of pva, allowed to dry and painted matt black.
(Sorry if I'm "teaching granny.....", but I hope it will help some in future builds).
Once the lifeboats had been glued in place they were rigged with double blocks and tied off to one davit by a toggle (which was a tiny separate part). Again, an eye for detail.
That's about it chaps, apart from wiring the lights and smokers, and painting and fixing the crew in place.
I have electrified the mast lights (five in all), navigation lights, searchlights, and illuminated the inside of the wireless room, bridge, flying bridge and a hatchway.
There are two fixed lights on the foremast and three oil lamps on a halyard. These indicate what kind of operation the tug is carrying out - towing etc.
The lights supplied in the kit are all in white metal, so I decided to drill them out and use micro led's to illuminate. I simulated the halyard for the oil lamps with brass rod and the connecting wires.
I finished rigging the masts with ratlines, which, after a disastrous first attempt, I made on a jig.
Using the five foot rule for both lights and ratlines, I am reasonably happy with the effect.
The antenna between the two masts is made from .45 nickel silver rod which gives both rigidity and a 'sag'.
The problem with attaching the antenna to the wireless room roof is that the masts are attached to the boat and the centre deck, containing the wireless room, is removable to access batteries etc.
This problem also affects the signal halyards on the foremast, the ends of which should be attached to the flying bridge.
I'm working on a solution, but I don't hold out much hope.
Once I have completed the build (shouldn't be too long) and carried out a 'snagging' tour, I will finish the blog with a video of the boat with lights and smoke.
We are all going to have to wait to see her afloat of course, but I will make a video of that and include it when I put her in the harbour.
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That's about it chaps, apart from wiring the lights and smokers, and painting and fixing the crew in place.
I have electrified the mast lights (five in all), navigation lights, searchlights, and illuminated the inside of the wireless room, bridge, flying bridge and a hatchway.
There are two fixed lights on the foremast and three oil lamps on a halyard. These indicate what kind of operation the tug is carrying out - towing etc.
The lights supplied in the kit are all in white metal, so I decided to drill them out and use micro led's to illuminate. I simulated the halyard for the oil lamps with brass rod and the connecting wires.
I finished rigging the masts with ratlines, which, after a disastrous first attempt, I made on a jig.
Using the five foot rule for both lights and ratlines, I am reasonably happy with the effect.
The antenna between the two masts is made from .45 nickel silver rod which gives both rigidity and a 'sag'.
The problem with attaching the antenna to the wireless room roof is that the masts are attached to the boat and the centre deck, containing the wireless room, is removable to access batteries etc.
This problem also affects the signal halyards on the foremast, the ends of which should be attached to the flying bridge.
I'm working on a solution, but I don't hold out much hope.
Once I have completed the build (shouldn't be too long) and carried out a 'snagging' tour, I will finish the blog with a video of the boat with lights and smoke.
We are all going to have to wait to see her afloat of course, but I will make a video of that and include it when I put her in the harbour.
Still experimenting with Martin 555's idea re antenna and signal halyards (thinking about magnets), and a few more crew members to fit (yours is on the stern, Scratchbuilder)
In all other aspects, she is ready for sea.
The closest she has got to the water so far was in her sea trials - the cardboard box contains all the white metal fittings and it was good to see that she requires little if no extra ballast.
Can all you tug specialists disregard the blue/red flashing light on the foremast - bit of artistic license there.
Thank you all for your help and kind remarks during this most enjoyable and satisfying build.
I am now about to move over to the dark side into the mysterious world of submarines. Watch this space.......
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Still experimenting with Martin 555's idea re antenna and signal halyards (thinking about magnets), and a few more crew members to fit (yours is on the stern, Scratchbuilder)
In all other aspects, she is ready for sea.
The closest she has got to the water so far was in her sea trials - the cardboard box contains all the white metal fittings and it was good to see that she requires little if no extra ballast.
Can all you tug specialists disregard the blue/red flashing light on the foremast - bit of artistic license there.
Thank you all for your help and kind remarks during this most enjoyable and satisfying build.
I am now about to move over to the dark side into the mysterious world of submarines. Watch this space.......
Hi Steve,
Don't try to put two Utube URLs in the box on the right of the edit window.
I haven't ever tried to but I don't think it will work.
I might experiment with various separator characters sometime.
Instead-
Just copy the URLs (from the address box on the relevant Utube pages) into the text of your post.
Keep them on separate lines with no other characters on the same line.
That's how I managed to get 3 vids of my Sea Scout trials into one post some time ago.
Cheers, Doug 😎
Yes, I find the fumes from glooper sue quite irritating and it does stiffen the joint as you say. I did try water resistant pva in my initial experimentations, but it did not dry quickly enough for my patience.
I do find pva extremely useful for rivet heads and the like, once again using a cocktail stick to apply and painting the appropriate colour when dry.
Please don't apologise for teaching grandma again - all tips and tricks gratefully received!
Steve