So here we go again! I have decided to give other projects a rest for a time in favour of this little gem. Pick up off eBay for less than £100 NIB posted, couldnt resist!
Its the Dumas (kit no:1203) 44' Coast Guard Lifeboat. I dont know if this kit is still produced by Dumas and having looked at the Die cutting of the parts, certainly seems like an old kit? However, I love my building and the challenges, so I am sure it will turn out nice at the end. Finished length 33".
I shall be converting this to a RNLI Waveney Class Lifeboat and will possibly go with 44-003 named "Khami" which was based in Great Yarmouth and Gorleston, which is local to me here in Suffolk. Sadly very little turns up on this boat via Google, but at some stage may pop out to the Great Yarmouth Lifeboat station and see if I can hunt anymore info on her.
I shall not be using the recommended Dumas running gear for 2 reasons, 1st its a geared set-up (I am going with MFA540 brushed direct drive) and the cost of over £150!
Photos show the box artwork, plans and the included wood. Last photo shows my electrics less propshafts and props that are on order. Note the Star Wars 3.75" figures that with poetic licence could be painted to represent crew. However, at this point the model is approx 1;16 scale and the figures would be 1:18 scale so maybe too small. There are 1:16 scale lifeboat figures available but pricey?
My one issue at this point is going to battery choice? do I go with a small 6v lead acid or perhaps 2 Tamiya type 7.2v NIMH in series. anyone who has built anything like this may want to advise. LIPO not an option as the Mtroniks ESC do not support LIPO. Space inside the hull may also be an issue?
Another issue is going to be fabricating some propshaft struts for the rear next to the props. There is quite a bit of prop shaft exposed outside the hull, so these would be integral to support and strength of the propshafts. is there anything available off the shelf (they are included in the running gear set, but dont seem to be available on there own) of do I need to fabricate from brass tube and sheet/strip brass?
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So here we go again! I have decided to give other projects a rest for a time in favour of this little gem. Pick up off eBay for less than £100 NIB posted, couldnt resist!
Its the Dumas (kit no:1203) 44' Coast Guard Lifeboat. I dont know if this kit is still produced by Dumas and having looked at the Die cutting of the parts, certainly seems like an old kit? However, I love my building and the challenges, so I am sure it will turn out nice at the end. Finished length 33".
I shall be converting this to a RNLI Waveney Class Lifeboat and will possibly go with 44-003 named "Khami" which was based in Great Yarmouth and Gorleston, which is local to me here in Suffolk. Sadly very little turns up on this boat via Google, but at some stage may pop out to the Great Yarmouth Lifeboat station and see if I can hunt anymore info on her.
I shall not be using the recommended Dumas running gear for 2 reasons, 1st its a geared set-up (I am going with MFA540 brushed direct drive) and the cost of over £150!
Photos show the box artwork, plans and the included wood. Last photo shows my electrics less propshafts and props that are on order. Note the Star Wars 3.75" figures that with poetic licence could be painted to represent crew. However, at this point the model is approx 1;16 scale and the figures would be 1:18 scale so maybe too small. There are 1:16 scale lifeboat figures available but pricey?
My one issue at this point is going to battery choice? do I go with a small 6v lead acid or perhaps 2 Tamiya type 7.2v NIMH in series. anyone who has built anything like this may want to advise. LIPO not an option as the Mtroniks ESC do not support LIPO. Space inside the hull may also be an issue?
Another issue is going to be fabricating some propshaft struts for the rear next to the props. There is quite a bit of prop shaft exposed outside the hull, so these would be integral to support and strength of the propshafts. is there anything available off the shelf (they are included in the running gear set, but dont seem to be available on there own) of do I need to fabricate from brass tube and sheet/strip brass?
I’ve decided to go brushless instead of brushed with a view to adding brushless at a later date. I had a turnigy motor and Hobbyking ESC sat in the spares box and have ordered another pair. Will run this on 2S lipo to start with and go 3s if needed, depending on the watt meter results?
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I’ve decided to go brushless instead of brushed with a view to adding brushless at a later date. I had a turnigy motor and Hobbyking ESC sat in the spares box and have ordered another pair. Will run this on 2S lipo to start with and go 3s if needed, depending on the watt meter results?
I use two Turnigy 2830 750kv brushless 35amp car type escs 11.1v Lipo and 30mm brass props.
Glad to hear you are using a wattmeter to check the loading.
So, most of the day has been taken up with getting the formers cut free from the sheets of semi die-cut liteply. it’s then taken a couple of hours of sanding to get the formers to something like useable.
I’ve jigged formers 1-7, setting the keel in and getting some glue to joints. Will let that set overnight before moving back with glueing formers 8-12 and remaining side formers.
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So, most of the day has been taken up with getting the formers cut free from the sheets of semi die-cut liteply. it’s then taken a couple of hours of sanding to get the formers to something like useable.
I’ve jigged formers 1-7, setting the keel in and getting some glue to joints. Will let that set overnight before moving back with glueing formers 8-12 and remaining side formers.
Are you planning fibreglassing your hull? I did mine, 1 strip down the keel and around the stern, then both sides. Currently on coat # 5 of resin with sanding in between.
So, this morning saw the remaining formers glued and weighted whilst setting. Have finished the day with laying down the first 2 planks up against the keel. Once I’ve got the 2 planks glued in against the other side of the keel will then add 1 or 2 planks each side at the same time and allow to set before moving on, all the time weighted down with my trusty vice in the hope of a straight hull at the end! All straights so far!
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So, this morning saw the remaining formers glued and weighted whilst setting. Have finished the day with laying down the first 2 planks up against the keel. Once I’ve got the 2 planks glued in against the other side of the keel will then add 1 or 2 planks each side at the same time and allow to set before moving on, all the time weighted down with my trusty vice in the hope of a straight hull at the end! All straights so far!
I mostly use Aliphatic PVA in my aircraft builds. Was watching a video on youtube of an aeromodellers channel I subscribe too and he swears by 502! bought 500ml for just over £3 at tool station!
Always good to hear of different makes of adhesive that others use. in a warm room most of these types of wood glue set very quickly to a hold state, developing full strength over 12 hours.
A far cry from the days of Cascamite! which I recall seemed to take 24hrs, a lifetime when you are 5 years old.
Over the past couple of days, planking is moving on. Working on 2 planks per side per day allowing overnight setting time before moving on to next row. Starting nights tonight, so will try an add a couple of planks each day before bed!
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Over the past couple of days, planking is moving on. Working on 2 planks per side per day allowing overnight setting time before moving on to next row. Starting nights tonight, so will try an add a couple of planks each day before bed!
So far so good 👍 I admire your patience.
Thinks! if you are on nights again you can carry on planking (sounds vaguely familiar! Sid James & Kenneth Williams & co? 😁) while twiddling your thumbs waiting for the Russkies to attack😉 Cheers Doug 😎
I could plank on nights, have done before ha ha! However, managed to get another 2 rows on before and 2 after my day kip, the gaps are closing! Photo update tomorrow.
Have added a few more planks over the last couple of days before and after bed as on nights. Gaps should be closed by Friday? Have also marked exit points for prop shafts and marked and drilled rudder mounting holes.
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Have added a few more planks over the last couple of days before and after bed as on nights. Gaps should be closed by Friday? Have also marked exit points for prop shafts and marked and drilled rudder mounting holes.
Finished nights this morning, had a couple of hours kip then thrashed some more planking! Stern end finished, main hull finished, just the bow uppers to put in. Once completed, will get some pva squeegee’d into the inside joints between planks and formers then will give the inside a couple of coats of resin. Once that’s done, rough sand the hull and fill the remaining gaps and blemishes with wood filler before final sanding and touch filling prior to glass clothing.
Before I glass cloth, shall install prop shafts, motor mounts, motors, install decks then onwards with clothing.
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Finished nights this morning, had a couple of hours kip then thrashed some more planking! Stern end finished, main hull finished, just the bow uppers to put in. Once completed, will get some pva squeegee’d into the inside joints between planks and formers then will give the inside a couple of coats of resin. Once that’s done, rough sand the hull and fill the remaining gaps and blemishes with wood filler before final sanding and touch filling prior to glass clothing.
Before I glass cloth, shall install prop shafts, motor mounts, motors, install decks then onwards with clothing.
So, after a weekend away with “she who must be obeyed” have managed to do some more over the last couple of days before nights tonight. Planking is now completed, just needs external shaping, sanding and filler before glass clothing.
Have cut holes and added all the fixing points for the prop shafts and made the motor mount. All square and inline. Prop shafts won’t be fitted properly until I’ve clothed the outside. Stuffing boxes will be epoxy and isopon P38 fixed inside the little boxes I’ve made where they exit the hull for added strength.
Last job today was to give the inside of the hull a good dose of resin to seal it all up.
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So, after a weekend away with “she who must be obeyed” have managed to do some more over the last couple of days before nights tonight. Planking is now completed, just needs external shaping, sanding and filler before glass clothing.
Have cut holes and added all the fixing points for the prop shafts and made the motor mount. All square and inline. Prop shafts won’t be fitted properly until I’ve clothed the outside. Stuffing boxes will be epoxy and isopon P38 fixed inside the little boxes I’ve made where they exit the hull for added strength.
Last job today was to give the inside of the hull a good dose of resin to seal it all up.
Been a slow few days with work and chores around the house, but managed to get in the workshop today. Fore, centre and aft decks in, nose block rough shaped and glued, gunwales fitted. I’ve faced the rear and fore deck thingys with1:32 ply for a neater finish and replaced the kit gunwale thingys with a sandwich of 1:32 ply and 1:32 balsa.
Tomorrow I have a “me” day as wife at work and I’m off work, so it will be a good chance to sand hull, filler were needed, sanding sealer, more sanding ready to start glass clothing Tuesday all being well.
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Been a slow few days with work and chores around the house, but managed to get in the workshop today. Fore, centre and aft decks in, nose block rough shaped and glued, gunwales fitted. I’ve faced the rear and fore deck thingys with1:32 ply for a neater finish and replaced the kit gunwale thingys with a sandwich of 1:32 ply and 1:32 balsa.
Tomorrow I have a “me” day as wife at work and I’m off work, so it will be a good chance to sand hull, filler were needed, sanding sealer, more sanding ready to start glass clothing Tuesday all being well.
More progress today! First thing was to make a stand from 6mm ply and 18mm dowel using the hull templates as described in the instruction sheet. Was a good excuse to get my scroll saw going! The rear stand will have some more cut-outs to clear the prop shafts, will do that when I’ve installed them.
This was followed by a very messy and dusty couple of hours sanding and flaring the hull external sheeting followed by a good dose of cheap wood filler ( £1.99 from a pound shop in stowmarket, works well, sands nice!) in any gaps, cracks and imperfections. Will leave to dry overnight before sanding back and refilling where required before a couple of coats of sanding sealer, sanding back then on with glass clothing.
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More progress today! First thing was to make a stand from 6mm ply and 18mm dowel using the hull templates as described in the instruction sheet. Was a good excuse to get my scroll saw going! The rear stand will have some more cut-outs to clear the prop shafts, will do that when I’ve installed them.
This was followed by a very messy and dusty couple of hours sanding and flaring the hull external sheeting followed by a good dose of cheap wood filler ( £1.99 from a pound shop in stowmarket, works well, sands nice!) in any gaps, cracks and imperfections. Will leave to dry overnight before sanding back and refilling where required before a couple of coats of sanding sealer, sanding back then on with glass clothing.