This is the cabin which is just about about ready for filler, sanding, window and door glazing and Primer. The build has given me some experience and a bit of confidence for the rest of the build. My excitement grows!
By the way - it seems there are no local boat modelling clubs near me, so today I placed a community ad looking for prospective modellers. Should be interesting to see what I catch.
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This is the cabin which is just about about ready for filler, sanding, window and door glazing and Primer. The build has given me some experience and a bit of confidence for the rest of the build. My excitement grows!
By the way - it seems there are no local boat modelling clubs near me, so today I placed a community ad looking for prospective modellers. Should be interesting to see what I catch.
Hi Hec,
Sorry, missed this response; I get 100plus mails/posts a day🤔
These days the shaft is most likely 3mm. If you have a micrometer check it.
If you don't have a micrometer GET ONE.👍
There are several inexpensive ones with digital display on Ebay/Amazon, some with both metric and imperial measurement.
Reason I wondered about the stuffing box: On a real ship the 'stuffing box' is just the watertight gland sealing the shaft where it exits the hull. The rest of the shaft is supported inside the ship by a series of bearings.
Very difficult for us modellers to reproduce and not necessary cos it's hidden anyway😉
Most ship modellers make the mistake of continuing the tube right up to the prop.
So did I on my early models!
In reality the shaft would also be supported outside the hull by bearings, in A or V frames right in front of the prop.
Cheers, Doug 😎
Got all the parts for the keel cut and sanded up so thought I would glue up a bit of it. Well, a bit turned out to be more than a bit, now I await the stuffing box which I will smear with epoxy and slide into the 14” (5mm) slot. Over the next few days I will drill out the weight lightening holes In the frames, sand them and notch for the sheer clamps and keel. The Project is coming along way better than I had anticipated...wonder when I will run up against a brick wall.
Being new to boat building ans powering them up, I will be looking for advice on electrical power - lead-acid, gell cell or LiPo.
UPDATE
Just couldn't hold off...just HAD to mount that inner transom. Funny thing, though - the notches for the sheer clamps were not marked on the plan. Out comes my rotozip if I can ever get it bk from my son.
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Got all the parts for the keel cut and sanded up so thought I would glue up a bit of it. Well, a bit turned out to be more than a bit, now I await the stuffing box which I will smear with epoxy and slide into the 14” (5mm) slot. Over the next few days I will drill out the weight lightening holes In the frames, sand them and notch for the sheer clamps and keel. The Project is coming along way better than I had anticipated...wonder when I will run up against a brick wall.
Being new to boat building ans powering them up, I will be looking for advice on electrical power - lead-acid, gell cell or LiPo.
UPDATE
Just couldn't hold off...just HAD to mount that inner transom. Funny thing, though - the notches for the sheer clamps were not marked on the plan. Out comes my rotozip if I can ever get it bk from my son.
Notice how my better half allows me to use the kitchen table to do my photography? She has become very interested in this project and is fascinated how a pile of wood pieces can actually turn into something. I even told her About the vegetable steamer expirement...there was no reply...I took that as being good, ha!
Having made the Hull formers And the Keel, I have done some thinking about Material for stringers, deck opening framing, deck and hull planking. Checking my local building supplies dealer, I came across a couple of pieces of yellow Cedar Fence board without a knot in it. Digging out my trusty old tablesaw, I wanted to find out if it Would be up to the task of ripping planking. I can rip a 1/8” plank with ease if I take my time. The fence board is only 5/8” thick so my planks will be 1/8 X 5/8. Actually, I may rip them a bit on the thick size then run them through my DIY thickness sander. That will take care of any irregularities.
Added the sheer clamps this morning after attaching the port and starboard temporary form alignment timbers. They are the wide timbers at the top of the formers. Having no suitable clamping devices, I made my own - with flat waxed nylon lacing twine. Not pretty, but it works and holds parts together nice and tight. Used the same tying method for the sheers.
Next, will install the deck opening material, then the decking. Fairing of the outside will be next followed by ny first attempt at planking. By the way - cedar bends quite nicely if soaked in hot water for a bit.
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Having made the Hull formers And the Keel, I have done some thinking about Material for stringers, deck opening framing, deck and hull planking. Checking my local building supplies dealer, I came across a couple of pieces of yellow Cedar Fence board without a knot in it. Digging out my trusty old tablesaw, I wanted to find out if it Would be up to the task of ripping planking. I can rip a 1/8” plank with ease if I take my time. The fence board is only 5/8” thick so my planks will be 1/8 X 5/8. Actually, I may rip them a bit on the thick size then run them through my DIY thickness sander. That will take care of any irregularities.
Added the sheer clamps this morning after attaching the port and starboard temporary form alignment timbers. They are the wide timbers at the top of the formers. Having no suitable clamping devices, I made my own - with flat waxed nylon lacing twine. Not pretty, but it works and holds parts together nice and tight. Used the same tying method for the sheers.
Next, will install the deck opening material, then the decking. Fairing of the outside will be next followed by ny first attempt at planking. By the way - cedar bends quite nicely if soaked in hot water for a bit.
Thank you for that great advice - I am learning here and all input and advice is More than welcome. I think my tablesaw did a pretty good job of ripping the planks - they cut very smothe with just enough roughness to ensure a good glue bond (i hope).
I don't think it matters on the end you do first I have used both to start .
You do need to do both sides a bit to balance the work this helping (prevent) the frames from warping.
Rick
I tend to start at the gunwhale as that's the easy bit and the garboard strake is underneath the hull - and the water - and doesn't show so much.
I would always be inclined to plank the hull upside down on a building board with the frames extended to a common datum - ie the building board surface. This is harder if the plan shows frame shapes but no body plan, and from memory I think the Naxos plan is like that. Hopefully your framework will be stiff enough to plank without distortion, especially if the planks are nice and bendy. Time to get the steamer out again!
Its been a few days since any work was done on the NAXOS. I HAD TO TAKE MY granddaughter to Halifax, Nova Scotia to the IWK Hospital. Her plastic surgeon wanted to check her progress after having reconstructive surgery a year ago after a double mastectomy about two years ago. We then continued to my childhood town of Yarmouth Nova scotia where we spent six great days. It was good to see friends and what is left of my family.
Since being back, I got to work on my “baby” fixing things that needed attention prior to the planking process. I think I whipped her into shape, so will begin planking her.
Hopefully someone will tell me how to. Treat her inside once I finish planking.
My idea is to mix up a batch of fibreglass resin and give it to her. Do I need to apply cloth along the keel and formers? I hear that water and the glue I am using (carpenters yellow glue) and water are not a good mix should there be a leak. It would not be good to see planks popping off during the maiden sail.
Once the hull is planked, I plan on another coat of resin on the outside and then the painting. What is a good paint to use?
Anyway, heres a few pics showing how she looks now.
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Its been a few days since any work was done on the NAXOS. I HAD TO TAKE MY granddaughter to Halifax, Nova Scotia to the IWK Hospital. Her plastic surgeon wanted to check her progress after having reconstructive surgery a year ago after a double mastectomy about two years ago. We then continued to my childhood town of Yarmouth Nova scotia where we spent six great days. It was good to see friends and what is left of my family.
Since being back, I got to work on my “baby” fixing things that needed attention prior to the planking process. I think I whipped her into shape, so will begin planking her.
Hopefully someone will tell me how to. Treat her inside once I finish planking.
My idea is to mix up a batch of fibreglass resin and give it to her. Do I need to apply cloth along the keel and formers? I hear that water and the glue I am using (carpenters yellow glue) and water are not a good mix should there be a leak. It would not be good to see planks popping off during the maiden sail.
Once the hull is planked, I plan on another coat of resin on the outside and then the painting. What is a good paint to use?
Anyway, heres a few pics showing how she looks now.
You have made a lot of progress with Naxos. It looks as though you have a solid framework for planking too.
With regard to resin, I have found ZPoxy very good, not too smelly and easy to sand. Polyester resin is very smelly and unpleasant to use in my humble opinion and will be difficult to finish on the outside. There are water based resins such as Poly-C or EzeKote but they aren't as durable it must be said. I think with a boat like this using glass cloth inside is a bit belt and braces but your choice , of course.
With paint, anything can be used but it is good to stick to one system to avoid any unwanted reaction. I have had the dreaded wrinkles when mixing some sprays with enamels, admittedly years ago now.
On my last model I used two coats of ZPoxy, water based household primer (Dulux!) to build up the surface and then enamel topcoat, in that case Blackfriars, topsides and Humbrol, underbody. Lots of folk use car spray cans exclusively.
Incidentally, there are about three You Tube videos of various Naxos models which you might find interesting if you haven't already found them.
more work today on the NAXOS. Finished the planking from the deckline to the gunwale. Waiting for glue to dry then sanding, sanding. Kind of proud of my work so far and except for a few fixes below the waterline, I think that at long last my dream of an RC boat may be a reality.
Very interesting project and enjoying every second of work. Very time consuming and I am being as fussy as I can to make her look good.
Right, wrong or indifferent, I found that my roll of waxed nylon lacing twine is my version of clamps which hold the planking joints together nice and tight. The odd C clamp doesnt hurt as well.
Until next time.......
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more work today on the NAXOS. Finished the planking from the deckline to the gunwale. Waiting for glue to dry then sanding, sanding. Kind of proud of my work so far and except for a few fixes below the waterline, I think that at long last my dream of an RC boat may be a reality.
Very interesting project and enjoying every second of work. Very time consuming and I am being as fussy as I can to make her look good.
Right, wrong or indifferent, I found that my roll of waxed nylon lacing twine is my version of clamps which hold the planking joints together nice and tight. The odd C clamp doesnt hurt as well.
I am wondering if there is an alternative to fibreglass resin To sealing the interior of the hull. The resin is very messy and as far as I know, anything that is used to apply the stuff is like a Bic pen - you throw it away when done. I shouldnt be so fussy, but can’t help it,its my nature
I am wondering if there is an alternative to fibreglass resin To sealing the interior of the hull. The resin is very messy and as far as I know, anything that is used to apply the stuff is like a Bic pen - you throw it away when done. I shouldnt be so fussy, but can’t help it,its my nature
I've never tried it on a model but I see no reason why it wouldn't be perfectly satisfactory, Cascamite, a water based waterproof adhesive. I used to mix it a bit on the thin side and just paint it on. In my days of building full sized wooden dinghies, I used it with great success after being told about it by a well known (or he was then) builder of successful racing dinghies. I expect it is reasonably widely available because I've seen it in Axminster tool shops. Axminster the company, not Devon town.
I have found that the ‘throw-away’ brushes with a wood handle and foam end are inexpensive enough that I don’t mind tossing them. You can also save the handle for your parts box material.
This seems to be the toughest part - tapering planks. Have read about this and watched several videos, but don't quite get it...using my own meager skills to do it the best I can. Will work it out.
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This seems to be the toughest part - tapering planks. Have read about this and watched several videos, but don't quite get it...using my own meager skills to do it the best I can. Will work it out.
Hi Hecrowell,
I would highly recommend two of Harold Underhills books Plank on frame models and scale masting and rigging vol 1 & 2 these books these books have all the information needed in my opinion.
Cheers,
Stephen.
More work on my girl today. Happy that I chose this model for my build. It has been challenging, enjoyable and a learning experience. My tool supply for model building is very, very scarce, so make do with what I do have.
The front view indicates that the cabin is not straight, but thats because it is just Precariously sitting on the carlings For the photo shoot.
Will I ever build another model? Sure hope so, but none will compare to this, my very first.
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More work on my girl today. Happy that I chose this model for my build. It has been challenging, enjoyable and a learning experience. My tool supply for model building is very, very scarce, so make do with what I do have.
The front view indicates that the cabin is not straight, but thats because it is just Precariously sitting on the carlings For the photo shoot.
Will I ever build another model? Sure hope so, but none will compare to this, my very first.
Hey! Steve
Wow. This is great info, and I can see now that likely the most time consuming Part of the project. Now I need to sit down with my pencil and paper and start doing some math work. Wish me luck.
Well, today I began the task of planking the bottom - doing it the way that I have chosen. Right or wrong. It will require a number of wedge fillers ( forget what the technical term is) but to my untrained eye, looks kike it will work out OK.
The planks I have are cut from a 5 ft cedar fenceboard and therefore not long enough to make two out of one. I am putting the join where there is least amount of pressure grom bending.
Sure wish I had chosen cyanno glue thereby eliminating the need for clamping and waiting for the glue I am using to set up. Oh well .... live and learn.
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Well, today I began the task of planking the bottom - doing it the way that I have chosen. Right or wrong. It will require a number of wedge fillers ( forget what the technical term is) but to my untrained eye, looks kike it will work out OK.
The planks I have are cut from a 5 ft cedar fenceboard and therefore not long enough to make two out of one. I am putting the join where there is least amount of pressure grom bending.
Sure wish I had chosen cyanno glue thereby eliminating the need for clamping and waiting for the glue I am using to set up. Oh well .... live and learn.
The usual tube outer sleeve and the shaft itself. He he..all I know for sure is the outer tube is 1/4” OD and the shaft is 3/16” (I think)
Sorry, missed this response; I get 100plus mails/posts a day🤔
These days the shaft is most likely 3mm. If you have a micrometer check it.
If you don't have a micrometer GET ONE.👍
There are several inexpensive ones with digital display on Ebay/Amazon, some with both metric and imperial measurement.
Reason I wondered about the stuffing box: On a real ship the 'stuffing box' is just the watertight gland sealing the shaft where it exits the hull. The rest of the shaft is supported inside the ship by a series of bearings.
Very difficult for us modellers to reproduce and not necessary cos it's hidden anyway😉
Most ship modellers make the mistake of continuing the tube right up to the prop.
So did I on my early models!
In reality the shaft would also be supported outside the hull by bearings, in A or V frames right in front of the prop.
Cheers, Doug 😎