Finished the major parts of the hull and am satisfied with the results.
Now turned to the superstructure, which has turned into a challenge in its own right. Decided to break the structure down into decks and concentrate on each deck individually; before “rolling them up” into the complete structure. Also decided to make the central “core” first and complete, before adding the curved frontispiece containing the forward bulwarks. This would allow all the detail between the two such as windows, doors and portholes to be accurately made and positioned.
The structure from the first deck upwards was made removable to gain access to the internal systems of this working model.
The lovely flowing curves, which attracted me to the vessel initially, proved a pain to reproduce. The bends around the front corners required making each deck front separately and then gently bending heated styrene around a former to reproduce. There is much opportunity for hurling!
Added a L shaped strip around the front of each deck, so there is something firm to glue the front bulwarks to. Was concerned that without something like that the individual deck shields would never line up properly.
Similarly added styrene U channel along the deck edges to give a surface to which the shield side rails could be fitted. This also replicates the vertical deck edge panels that are evident in pictures. Felt this would also make the structure more robust, enabling it to be removed and refitted without damage.

As the superstructure rose in height it confirmed a suspicion that had been growing for some time. in spite of the copious checks during construction, the leading edge of the bow was twisted slightly by about 3/32” towards starboard at it's base. Not sure how this developed, can only guess there was a slight misalignment during the original modifications that eventually grew to become clearly visible.
It was the kind of defect only discernible to a careful observer - or me! initially hoped to avoid corrective action, but the superstructure build seemed to emphasis the twist. The model is now looking quite good; it would be a pity to compromise it with an elementary, but fundamental, issue such as this.
After many measurements, including using spirit levels and squares, decided to cut the trusty bow coat hangar loose, reposition it carefully laterally and then epoxy into place. The longitudinal shape was fine.
The pictures show the twist, the cut and then the amount of reposition required. Reconstruction followed the original bow addition procedure. There was a lot of sanding required on the starboard side of the bow to realign the bow and hull transition. Fortunately, this was limited to the addition area, so neither the mechanical nor water sealed qualities of the original Velarde hull have been compromised.
After repainting and finishing, all looked well, as shown in the final picture. Concluded this repair was indeed worth the effort. The problem would have been exaggerated in my mind to spoil my enjoyment and then pride in the model.
Glass fibre is remarkably forgiving and there should be no reluctance to embark on such modifications when necessary.

Having corrected the bow problem, returned to the superstructure.
The original plan was to try to reproduce the whole of the superstructure, right back to the rear of # 5 hold in one continuous piece of styrene. it would be cut and then filed out to fit the front panel right through to the rear on both sides. This would avoid any joints and discontinuities and it was hoped would capture the flowing lines more accurately.
Measured and found the piece would be over 42'' long! Decided this would be difficult to cut accurately and would probably never fit. Gave up on the idea and made the piece up in three sections; the front and both sides. The sides would be from an assembly of styrene strips and various precut shapes, the front from one styrene piece.
After making several measurements and then templates, made a complete front panel from a cereal packet and from it cut the proposed panel out. Left the solid areas oversize so could file and sand to the correct size and shape.
Once was reasonably confident the panel would fit, heated and bent the corners around a steel rod to get the correct radius. Throughout this kept offering the panel up into place making sure the radius and dimensional adjustments were satisfactory. Finally glued it into place. Once glued in place, cut the lower edges to follow the hull bulwark contour. Used a similar technique for the sides and finally glued them into place and together. Sanded to remove traces of adhesive.
Fitted LED navigation and wheelhouse lights, but left the wheelhouse structure off as the funnel size and shape will determine the navigation deck cut-out. This will be added after the funnel has been researched and made.

The wheelhouse was made out of styrene sheet, suitably shaped and heated to get the correct contours. it was left loose as, until the funnel is made, in some doubt about the shape and size of the cut-out needed in the navigation deck. The structure is essentially complete; glazed and painted. Until the funnel research is finished have now moved on to other items.
Started making the hatch covers to establish interior hull access and to confirm the best battery that can be inserted through them. Not made a final decision on the battery size or type yet. Hatch access is limited, so gell cells are out. Vacillating between Ni-Mh and Li-Po, but have had better experience with Li-Po.
The hatches are the McGregor folding type, but the GA has few details of them. Fortunately my SD 14 plans have full dimensions so copied those. On the SD 14 made the hatch coamings (sides) as males and fitted them through apertures in the deck. On Teakwood decided to build up a small wood coaming around the hatch aperture and then have the hatch coamings fit, slightly loosely (female) over them. This is a much better approach.
All the coamings can now be made from the same strip so the hatches immediately stand equally above the deck. Also, shims can be inserted into the hatch coamings so the alignment can be adjusted to get them to line up accurately. it will be a better way to keep water out, although cannot see that ever being much of an issue.
Added the accommodation ladder recesses in the bulwarks. in future, must remember to add them before the hull is finished as repairing damage should not be needed with better planning.
Happy Christmas and Best Wishes for 2018

Have moved on to the deck furniture and equipment, including the funnel. Most of it can be made from the usual assortment of scrap materials and odd and ends. Decided to start on the funnel. Planned to make up a wooden replica and wrap a thin styrene sheet around it, finally inserting styrene formers into the shell, gluing them into place. Made the replica up from scrap wood blocks and shaped it into the correct shape. The outcome looked so good was tempted to use as final as making funnels seems quite a challenge. Anyway proceeded to plan and shape thin styrene sheet around the replica, using a heat gun to overcome the memory. Once this was done, fitted shaped styrene internal formers to hold the styrene to the correct shape and glued with adhesive. After the styrene glue had dried and the excess material trimmed, now had two usable funnels - wood and styrene. The wood version is nominally smaller and fits slightly better, so decided to use it.
The Teakwood was originally operated by the J I Jacobs Company, which had a buff funnel with a black cap as markings. Stumbled across a picture of the vessel when she was chartered to the British india Steam Navigation Co. Evidently BI usually painted chartered vessels in their livery. Although the picture does not show the traditional and attractive BISNCo white hull cheat line, it does show the funnel markings. These are black with two narrowly separated white bands. Rather preferred this scheme so adopted it. The picture was taken in the mid 1960s and it also shows a pristine looking ship, my worries about the model looking unsoiled seem groundless.
One of the pictures shows a strip that extends back from the wheelhouse almost to the funnel - this is a support for the awnings that fit over the bridge wings.

Before the funnel could be installed wanted to fit a working radar scanner, navigation lights and the batteries. Decided to use sub C NIMH batteries in plastic holders, they should have the target endurance and provide some ballast.
Fitted two sets of 4 cells, one at the forward end of the superstructure and the other at the rear, both at keel level. These were inserted into wooden battery trays to hold them in place. A dry test run showed a full speed motor run time well exceeding the hour target, so will try on water. Also took the opportunity to fit the Rx and then adjust the rudder before finishing off the wiring.
Both the navigation lights (LEDs) and the radar scanner work. The radar is driven by a servo with the potentiometer removed and a magnetic drive shaft run up through the superstructure from below the deck. The motor requires about 9 volts to run at what would seem to be something approximating to scale speed; fitted a voltage reducer to allow the lights and the radar to work on less than 6 volts. The mast lights are to be installed in a separate circuit after the masts are added.
As I get more into the detail it is evident the GA drawing and the photographs of the vessel in service differ. Fortunately the component locations seem consistent, although the equipment is not. This most apparent in the hold ventilators. The GA shows the standard cowl vents, but the photographs show a mixture between an vertically squeezed oval vent (which am advised is more typically German) and ventilator columns with cylindrical caps.
The column style vents with cylindrical caps were easily made from two different sizes of styrene tube with the cap tops made from styrene offcuts.
The squeezed oval style vents were more difficult. Broke them down into the major parts of the cylindrical vertical tube and, from a larger tube cut a small ring and filed one end to straddle the tube once it had been squeezed oval. Glued it into place whilst restrained in a small hand vice. Once set, removed and sanded the the two to give a smooth transition, closing the rear aperture off with styrene offcuts. Then resorted to wood filler, filed down to give a smooth, oval vent.

Most of the deck equipment such as winches and bollards, is standard freighter fare. The deck layout is typical of a vessel of this type and vintage, as are the masts and rigging.
There will be little of interest to report until the first water test is planned in about 6 weeks when will get access to an indoor pool.Will hold any further blog updates until then unless something unusual occurs .

The vessel is virtually compete, just a few finishing touches such as decals and top masts. Building the deck equipment did not present any unexpected challenges and everything progressed quite quickly. Much assisted by an unusually cold Canadian winter – where is Global warming when you want it? The only comment is that this ship has a lot of deck railings, even with a simple jig these are time consuming.
Am hoping to try the first on water ballast check in about ten days, A review of similar models and weights suggests something like about 4 lbs will be needed.

Water trials have been delayed by trying to resolve the challenges with my HMS Brave Borderer project drivetrain. As those efforts have been halted, waiting for new components, decided to complete the Teakwood water trails.
First battery trails used 8 x 1.2 Ni-Mh cells is series, giving 9.6 volts. This was unsuccessful as the battery life was only minutes. Lesson from this is not to buy cheap Ni-Mh cells from an Oriental source.
Tried 2 x 7.4 Ni-Mh packs is series giving 14.8 volts. Vessel was far too fast and throttle control poorly modulated. Was thinking of fitting a voltage reducer with this battery layout so could adjust the top speed. Have done this before and it works well.
When searching in my box of bits found a voltage step up increaser. Never used this before so rewired the Ni-Mh packs to parallel and adjusted the output voltage to 10 volts to see how it worked.
Result is a nicely performing model with an usable top speed potential for emergency, Duration of the first run comfortable exceeded 1 ½ hours, which am satisfied with. The cells are positioned around mid hull to supplement the fitted ballast.
From the pictures the model has all the grace and style of the original vessel and sails well.
In conclusion, a successful project that justifies the many hours spent in building and refining the model