Hello!
A little about me: never built a model boat before, used to make free-flight model gliders and control-line planes as a boy, but never progressed to RC. A few years ago I decided to try my hand at model helicopters. I learnt a lot about helicopters, and ended up proving I was a better aero-engineer that I was a pilot. Them 'choppers be spawn of the devil, and very expensive to repair!
Time for something different, and I thought I'd try my hand at boats. After a lot of browsing I've chosen to build the Deans Marine CORDENE tramp steamer. it looks to be challenging without being too fiddly or complicated and, well, I just like the look of it. I hope this blog will (a) motivate me to finish it and (b) give me some satisfaction as I look back on progress. Also, if anyone else is able to learn from my mistakes that will be a bonus.
So - here we go. PS - the photo is unashamedly stolen from Deans Marine website. This is what I'm aiming for.
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Hello!
A little about me: never built a model boat before, used to make free-flight model gliders and control-line planes as a boy, but never progressed to RC. A few years ago I decided to try my hand at model helicopters. I learnt a lot about helicopters, and ended up proving I was a better aero-engineer that I was a pilot. Them 'choppers be spawn of the devil, and very expensive to repair!
Time for something different, and I thought I'd try my hand at boats. After a lot of browsing I've chosen to build the Deans Marine CORDENE tramp steamer. it looks to be challenging without being too fiddly or complicated and, well, I just like the look of it. I hope this blog will (a) motivate me to finish it and (b) give me some satisfaction as I look back on progress. Also, if anyone else is able to learn from my mistakes that will be a bonus.
So - here we go. PS - the photo is unashamedly stolen from Deans Marine website. This is what I'm aiming for.
Well, this is what you get to start from - a big box of stuff!
The contents are well packed, and the first job is to make sure everything that should be there is there. So far so good. Having read the instructions, re-read them and read them again I hit my first worry. There are in the box two trays of small components. (Aaaagh! What did I say about not wanting anything too fiddly???). The trays are covered with clear plastic, and each tray is accompanied by a printed sheet identifying the components, showing their Part Number, and the quantity provided.
I was concerned over the probability that once a tray was opened the bits would either get lost, or mixed up meaning I wouldn't be able to find what I wanted at the appropriate time. So, I have invested in a pack of small 3" x 3.5" (7.5cm x 9cm) re-sealable plastic bags.
Next job is to unpack the component trays, and put each component type in to a bag with a label identifying it for what it is.
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Well, this is what you get to start from - a big box of stuff!
The contents are well packed, and the first job is to make sure everything that should be there is there. So far so good. Having read the instructions, re-read them and read them again I hit my first worry. There are in the box two trays of small components. (Aaaagh! What did I say about not wanting anything too fiddly???). The trays are covered with clear plastic, and each tray is accompanied by a printed sheet identifying the components, showing their Part Number, and the quantity provided.
I was concerned over the probability that once a tray was opened the bits would either get lost, or mixed up meaning I wouldn't be able to find what I wanted at the appropriate time. So, I have invested in a pack of small 3" x 3.5" (7.5cm x 9cm) re-sealable plastic bags.
Next job is to unpack the component trays, and put each component type in to a bag with a label identifying it for what it is.
All the Dean's kits have this way of packing the fittings. I use sellotape to keep all safe just scalpel open the compartment then seal with sellotape. I have a part built Robert E Peary which I intend to complete when time permits.
The bad news - since my last post I have been really busy in work and with family things so very little progress made. Also re-read the instruction book and realised it is not very explicit on lots of things, so there is going to need to be a whole lot more research needed to find out where all the stuff (bits) need to go.
The good news - got all the parts unpacked, bagged and labelled. Got a few tools together to cut the parts out and clean them up for assembly. Done loads of research on white metal part gluing, painting etc. Also now know the difference between left-hand and right-hand propellers (be nice, this is all new to me...). Best news - haven't given up on it yet!
The bad news - since my last post I have been really busy in work and with family things so very little progress made. Also re-read the instruction book and realised it is not very explicit on lots of things, so there is going to need to be a whole lot more research needed to find out where all the stuff (bits) need to go.
The good news - got all the parts unpacked, bagged and labelled. Got a few tools together to cut the parts out and clean them up for assembly. Done loads of research on white metal part gluing, painting etc. Also now know the difference between left-hand and right-hand propellers (be nice, this is all new to me...). Best news - haven't given up on it yet!
So, having saved the kit from being put in the loft with the Xmas decorations and associated detritus Cordene is moving again. I've invested in a few additional hand tools, and also (thanks to those who helped with my propeller 101 question) in a shiny new brass prop, which is a lot more confidence-inspiring that the white metal one that came with the kit.
Task now in hand is sanding off the excess fibreglass around the gunwales. To assist with achieving a straight edge where required I am applying lengths of PVC electricians tape as a guide to where to stop.
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So, having saved the kit from being put in the loft with the Xmas decorations and associated detritus Cordene is moving again. I've invested in a few additional hand tools, and also (thanks to those who helped with my propeller 101 question) in a shiny new brass prop, which is a lot more confidence-inspiring that the white metal one that came with the kit.
Task now in hand is sanding off the excess fibreglass around the gunwales. To assist with achieving a straight edge where required I am applying lengths of PVC electricians tape as a guide to where to stop.
After a slight pause (6 months since last post 😱) have finally found some time between family and work commitments to push things forward a bit. A bit short on workspace at the moment as garage and office is chocca (Hi Dad - when we move house can you look after some stuff for us...?) so have spent some time practicing battery charging, and setting all the electrics and basic R/C controls up on a little test rig. The blue support for the prop drive shaft is a bit of a clip-on folder binder strip I stole. The shaft is held perfectly. I'll keep this in reserve as a possible means of mounting things in the hull, when the time comes.
I have a 2000mAh Nimh battery powering a 10A Deans marine ESC. The receiver is a Devolution Devo RX1002, the servo an Align DS520 (both salvaged from my foray in to the lunacy that is R/C helicopters). The motor is a Deans marine KYTE. Just messing with the white metal prop for now, will obviously use the nice shiny brass one I bought on the proper build.
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After a slight pause (6 months since last post 😱) have finally found some time between family and work commitments to push things forward a bit. A bit short on workspace at the moment as garage and office is chocca (Hi Dad - when we move house can you look after some stuff for us...?) so have spent some time practicing battery charging, and setting all the electrics and basic R/C controls up on a little test rig. The blue support for the prop drive shaft is a bit of a clip-on folder binder strip I stole. The shaft is held perfectly. I'll keep this in reserve as a possible means of mounting things in the hull, when the time comes.
I have a 2000mAh Nimh battery powering a 10A Deans marine ESC. The receiver is a Devolution Devo RX1002, the servo an Align DS520 (both salvaged from my foray in to the lunacy that is R/C helicopters). The motor is a Deans marine KYTE. Just messing with the white metal prop for now, will obviously use the nice shiny brass one I bought on the proper build.
Looks like a nice boat.
Alan
Ed