This build is around the same percentage complete as my Swordsman - the hull is further forward with the bottom and sides being painted but the superstructure is a little way behind.
For the roofs of all my models I use 3mm thick bass planks rather than having to force ply into shapes it doesn't want to go in, especially if there are compound curves. Once filled and sanded the roofs are covered in lightweight cloth and Eze-Kote to tie the planks together and form a good base for painting. Once the cloth is held by the resin I applied 4 coats to fill the weave and allow for a light sanding. Before painting I'm going to cut out and glue in position a mahogany piece for the screen to wrap around as per the full-size boat.
I shall leave the hull paint for a few more days to fully harden and then fit the prop shaft, rudder and battery so that I can try it in the bath and see how it sits.
Chris
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This build is around the same percentage complete as my Swordsman - the hull is further forward with the bottom and sides being painted but the superstructure is a little way behind.
For the roofs of all my models I use 3mm thick bass planks rather than having to force ply into shapes it doesn't want to go in, especially if there are compound curves. Once filled and sanded the roofs are covered in lightweight cloth and Eze-Kote to tie the planks together and form a good base for painting. Once the cloth is held by the resin I applied 4 coats to fill the weave and allow for a light sanding. Before painting I'm going to cut out and glue in position a mahogany piece for the screen to wrap around as per the full-size boat.
I shall leave the hull paint for a few more days to fully harden and then fit the prop shaft, rudder and battery so that I can try it in the bath and see how it sits.
I wanted a decent depth of mahogany but of course this comes with the problem of bending it to the curve of the roof. I thought about steaming it but it's difficult to get sheet, especially thick sheet, to bend to a uniform curve and also there is a danger with it twisting. So I resulted to the other method of multiple saw cuts. Even then it resisted bending and I didn't want to cut too far through and have it break. But contact adhesive did the trick though I had a moment when it grabbed in the wrong place - managed to move it though, just! Then added a couple of trim pieces along the back edge.
Got the same to do on the Swordsman now and it's wider so even more cuts!
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I wanted a decent depth of mahogany but of course this comes with the problem of bending it to the curve of the roof. I thought about steaming it but it's difficult to get sheet, especially thick sheet, to bend to a uniform curve and also there is a danger with it twisting. So I resulted to the other method of multiple saw cuts. Even then it resisted bending and I didn't want to cut too far through and have it break. But contact adhesive did the trick though I had a moment when it grabbed in the wrong place - managed to move it though, just! Then added a couple of trim pieces along the back edge.
Got the same to do on the Swordsman now and it's wider so even more cuts!