The hull sides have been painted white and will now be left for a week or more for the paint to harden. Reason I leave it that long is I prefer using 3M masking tape which sticks well and so I don't want to risk pulling off any paint! I have plenty of work to do on my other builds and so it isn't a problem.
So I've now turned my attention back to the superstructure. I've been itching to get a coat of varnish on the rear cabin roof and after fitting some mahogany trim to the rear and rounding it off and that to the coamings I applied a coat. Just need to make another pair of doors and I can paint the inside of the cockpit and start fitting it out.
Chris
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The hull sides have been painted white and will now be left for a week or more for the paint to harden. Reason I leave it that long is I prefer using 3M masking tape which sticks well and so I don't want to risk pulling off any paint! I have plenty of work to do on my other builds and so it isn't a problem.
So I've now turned my attention back to the superstructure. I've been itching to get a coat of varnish on the rear cabin roof and after fitting some mahogany trim to the rear and rounding it off and that to the coamings I applied a coat. Just need to make another pair of doors and I can paint the inside of the cockpit and start fitting it out.
@ChrisF .Thanks for reply.It is great you can keep the Fairy range of boats well remembered with your models.They were almost new when I started working on them.now considered vintage..I remember difficult to get at the engines and gear boxes etc .No room. All the Best .Stephen
Who was the muppet building a Huntsman 31 who said there was a danger of the mahogany sheet twisting if steam was used to bend it? 🤔
I managed to find a piece of mahogany sheet without a pronounced grain pattern on a part of it and cut out the roof capping/screen former. As before I made many saw cuts to help it bend but this piece of timber was quite dry and liable to snapping so I dampened the top surface before trying it on the roof. It bent OK but there was still quite a bit of resistance so I thought I'd try steaming it using my usual appliance the kettle. With gentle steaming it bent a bit but wouldn't hold the bend much. So gave it a longer go and big mistake as it curled from front to back (as the grain runs from side to side) and I couldn't bend it straight by hand. Fortunately the sink was full of water and so I gave it a good soaking which helped a lot. So I clamped it to the roof and it fitted fine but as it dried out, given that I could only clamp in one place each side, it started to curl again, drat!
The iron and board was already set up in the other room so nothing to lose I gave that a go on the steam setting and did both sides. This pretty much straightened it out and I was able to bend it so I then used my wife's hair drier to dry it out whilst I maintained the bend. Yes, she was out! 😀 This maintained a bend good enough to allow it to be glued in place. Whilst I used contact adhesive again I'll leave it clamped overnight.
So whilst clamped I made the pair of doors for the front cabin having made those for the rear sometime ago. Before gluing in place I need to paint the cockpit so that I can fit the floor in case I can't get it in once the doors have been fitted.
Chris
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Who was the muppet building a Huntsman 31 who said there was a danger of the mahogany sheet twisting if steam was used to bend it? 🤔
I managed to find a piece of mahogany sheet without a pronounced grain pattern on a part of it and cut out the roof capping/screen former. As before I made many saw cuts to help it bend but this piece of timber was quite dry and liable to snapping so I dampened the top surface before trying it on the roof. It bent OK but there was still quite a bit of resistance so I thought I'd try steaming it using my usual appliance the kettle. With gentle steaming it bent a bit but wouldn't hold the bend much. So gave it a longer go and big mistake as it curled from front to back (as the grain runs from side to side) and I couldn't bend it straight by hand. Fortunately the sink was full of water and so I gave it a good soaking which helped a lot. So I clamped it to the roof and it fitted fine but as it dried out, given that I could only clamp in one place each side, it started to curl again, drat!
The iron and board was already set up in the other room so nothing to lose I gave that a go on the steam setting and did both sides. This pretty much straightened it out and I was able to bend it so I then used my wife's hair drier to dry it out whilst I maintained the bend. Yes, she was out! 😀 This maintained a bend good enough to allow it to be glued in place. Whilst I used contact adhesive again I'll leave it clamped overnight.
So whilst clamped I made the pair of doors for the front cabin having made those for the rear sometime ago. Before gluing in place I need to paint the cockpit so that I can fit the floor in case I can't get it in once the doors have been fitted.
Managed to do a spot of painting this morning before the back room got too hot. Was keen to do this as you shouldn't leave it too long between gloss coats and it's been a couple of days since I last applied any.
So painted a couple of things on other models getting another coat on the front window and back of the rear cabin of the Swordsman having finished the cabin and coaming sides and removed the masking tape. Another coat or two will be required on the rear after which I can progress the superstructure more.
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Managed to do a spot of painting this morning before the back room got too hot. Was keen to do this as you shouldn't leave it too long between gloss coats and it's been a couple of days since I last applied any.
So painted a couple of things on other models getting another coat on the front window and back of the rear cabin of the Swordsman having finished the cabin and coaming sides and removed the masking tape. Another coat or two will be required on the rear after which I can progress the superstructure more.
Applied another coat of gloss to the rear of the superstructure and left to dry. It's been a few weeks since I painted the hull sides so the paint is nice and hard now and so I can paint the hull bottom. Applied some mastic tape, always a fiddly job I find, and applied the first coat of grey primer-undercoat. It's drying really fast in the heat but will leave until tomorrow before applying the second coat.
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Applied another coat of gloss to the rear of the superstructure and left to dry. It's been a few weeks since I painted the hull sides so the paint is nice and hard now and so I can paint the hull bottom. Applied some mastic tape, always a fiddly job I find, and applied the first coat of grey primer-undercoat. It's drying really fast in the heat but will leave until tomorrow before applying the second coat.
@E8southport Thanks. I feel a little guilty with this build as it was the first model I started about 8 years ago! I then got side-tracked with other Fairey builds and this one was put to one side. Anyway recently I decided to make a concerted effort with my earlier builds, all Faireys, and at least get them all on the water before adding the finishing details. So this is the first started and will be the last but one to get on the water, the last being the Fisherman 27 which was the last one started.
Unlike with full-size boats, strakes aren't as important on models, but as this is a near scale model it needs to have them and they do set the hull off nicely. I can't wait to see how it performs either.
Three coats of primer-undercoat applied and given a light sanding before applying the first coat of gloss. Woohoo!
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@zooma Bob, "my duff arm will give you a chance to catch up", your arm must be really badly damaged and going to take a really long time to heal/repair if it's going to give me a chance at that.
The Javelin challenge was looking ok, until you went and put an actual year on there. I'll try 😬
5 coats of gloss on now with a sanding before the last 2. Frustrating as usual because with the last but one coat I ended up with hardly any bits in the paint but with the last one I did, despite using another new brush.
But as I've said before I’ve given up with chasing perfection or anywhere close. That's why I mainly use blue on the underside of the hull as the white is much more forgiving. I shall forget about it when I start using the boat and overall it looks nice. I just don't know how these guys painting a car in a shed produce such a great finish!
I've left the stern for now, which will be blue as well as it was difficult to mask off accurately where it met that on the chine rails.
5 coats of gloss on now with a sanding before the last 2. Frustrating as usual because with the last but one coat I ended up with hardly any bits in the paint but with the last one I did, despite using another new brush.
But as I've said before I’ve given up with chasing perfection or anywhere close. That's why I mainly use blue on the underside of the hull as the white is much more forgiving. I shall forget about it when I start using the boat and overall it looks nice. I just don't know how these guys painting a car in a shed produce such a great finish!
I've left the stern for now, which will be blue as well as it was difficult to mask off accurately where it met that on the chine rails.
@zooma I'm fine with the bigger tins of International Paints, 750ml, for blue and white as I've used that on all my Faireys, in fact I had to buy another tin of white, but it does go a long way. White of course not a problem as used on many models. If I need some other colours and in smaller tins I shall get some Craftmaster.
Both manufacturers say to use something else below the waterline but that is for full-sized boats that spend most of their time in the water. For our use that's no problem and these paints are better than household gloss which is fine - as long as oil based of course.
I think the paint manufacturers refer to “anti-fouling paint” for use under the waterline.
This is not a problem for us of course because we lift our boats out of the water after each run and apply several coats of polish to the undersides to keep them looking perfect………………:)
With the pleasant lower temperatures and odd periods of rain (even better as I can't do anything outside!) I've been able to return to painting. Coats of primer-undercoat are being applied to the cabin roof and transom.
Once the transom has been glossed the plan was to test it on the lake along with the Huntsman 31 but I think that will now have to be put on hold due to the low level and difficulty in launching and retrieving, especially with bigger/heavier models, as the jetty is now out of bounds. However the ramped launching winch is in the process of being extended to reach the lower water level so I will have a look at that.
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With the pleasant lower temperatures and odd periods of rain (even better as I can't do anything outside!) I've been able to return to painting. Coats of primer-undercoat are being applied to the cabin roof and transom.
Once the transom has been glossed the plan was to test it on the lake along with the Huntsman 31 but I think that will now have to be put on hold due to the low level and difficulty in launching and retrieving, especially with bigger/heavier models, as the jetty is now out of bounds. However the ramped launching winch is in the process of being extended to reach the lower water level so I will have a look at that.
@ChrisF Domestic Test Facility...! Love that. I guess my experience has been with the Rivas, specifically the Amati design and they build heavy like it or not... Especially up at the bow where there's maximum width of boat above the waterline, and minimum under the water to support it. So I try to build lighter, then if I can come in under weight use ballast to level out. I looked at the weights of the full size 33 and the 27 motor sailor, I found displacement estimates of about 6,500kg for the 33 and 3,000kg for the motor sailor, if that's correct, at 1/12th that's 3.8kg ish maximum for the 33 and only 1.75kg ish for the 27. But as you say, it's results in the 'domestic test facility' that will matter most..!
@DJW Hi David, yes those weights are right and that for the Fisherman isn't a lot is it! And it will be fitted with a keel and bulb as used on the DragonForce 65 yacht as well! As I mentioned it feels pretty light (is that a technical term! 😄) so far even though it has a mahogany hull keel and is double planked with ply and bass. My gut feeling is that it will be fine and I was even worried that it might ride too high and bob around! Again, the hull is a very buoyant design being based on a lifeboat and there is good support at the bow so the weight is quite well distributed.
But if all goes quiet on the Fisherman build blog you will know I've blown it! 😁Though it's quiet at the moment as I've left it to return to my other Fairey builds.
As with all my Faireys I'm looking forward to getting this one on the water.