Pleased to report that I have not made a single mistake with the build today.
That’s because I haven’t had time to any work on the boat! Been baking cakes.
Tomorrow will probably be a different story. Hopefully not.
Managed without hiccup to fit hatch decking. Maybe a bit of fine tuning as it tends to a little proud at one end. Just a 1mm.
As you can see from the images I have obtained a 4mm prop shaft and propeller. I think that there should be a pointy nut on the outside of the prop. There is just a hole with the threaded shaft inside.
Secondly in which order to the nuts washers and prop etc. go. Not found much info on that as yet. I did read somewhere that nylon washers maybe preferable.
I’ve reposted images. Appears they did not upload.
Getting ahead of myself but not sleeping at night trying to fathom it out!
Cheers all.
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Managed without hiccup to fit hatch decking. Maybe a bit of fine tuning as it tends to a little proud at one end. Just a 1mm.
As you can see from the images I have obtained a 4mm prop shaft and propeller. I think that there should be a pointy nut on the outside of the prop. There is just a hole with the threaded shaft inside.
Secondly in which order to the nuts washers and prop etc. go. Not found much info on that as yet. I did read somewhere that nylon washers maybe preferable.
I’ve reposted images. Appears they did not upload.
Getting ahead of myself but not sleeping at night trying to fathom it out!
I have used these in the past to give a nice finishing touch to hold my propellers on (also available in m5).
A brass or nylon washer can run against the end of the prop shaft and a normal m4 nut can be fitted in front of this to lock against the back of the propeller as the domed nut is locked against the propeller from the outside.
The end float (or “play”) between the end of the shaft and this brass or nylon washer should also be adjusted to take up any slack.
A small amount of slack should be left to prevent the shaft running too tightly . This “slack” can also be adjusted in a similar way at the other end of the prop shaft inside the hull using the same technique with a plain m4 nut locked against the end of the coupling after the desired slack has been established.
Thanks ChrisF,
Point taken. I don’t know its origin, I was given it by friends son who found out I was building a model.
I’ll get another later.
Thanks again.👍
It will still do the job if it's big enough. To be honest outboard props aren't usually brass but that's what it reminds me of with the hole being where the exhaust comes out.
They are usually stainless steel or alloy but would be expensive to make for a model as they would have to be machined.
I have to drill a 6mm hole through the keel strengtheners. It requires an extra long drill bit. I haven’t got one, and neither as anyone I can think of asking. So I’ve got to go buy one. Annoying. Grrrrrr. 😠
The drill has to through ply laminate, and ply keel. Next thing to work out is keeping it in alignment. I have a plan, I think. Any I now have the drill bit!
)I’ve used the image, with thanks, from Robbob blog. Hope that’s ok.)
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I have to drill a 6mm hole through the keel strengtheners. It requires an extra long drill bit. I haven’t got one, and neither as anyone I can think of asking. So I’ve got to go buy one. Annoying. Grrrrrr. 😠
The drill has to through ply laminate, and ply keel. Next thing to work out is keeping it in alignment. I have a plan, I think. Any I now have the drill bit!
)I’ve used the image, with thanks, from Robbob blog. Hope that’s ok.)
What is the wood and how thick? Has anyone tried to solder a drill bit into a piece of brass tubing to make it longer. Might work if the wood isn't too thick.
Lew
Glyn.
The bit that you have bought looks like a masonry bit which isn't best suited to use on wood! 😮
PS. No problem with you using pics from my SLEC Pilot Boat build blog 😊
Rob.
I’ve done the drilling for the shaft. Slides in and out ok. Bit of ferkling needed now as it’s not quite in alignment with the keel. Happy days.
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I have had to make the opening for the prop shaft to pass through the keel and bulkheads many times over the years, but I have never had the luxury of doing it with a long drill bit……but I do like to idea as it could have saved me hours of work with other hand tools!
Well I have made some headway. Part assembled the cabin. Been sand the hull ready fit the skins. I’m putting that off at the moment! I’m not sure how I’m going to do it yet. Instructions says use evo stick. I’m not sure I’d position it correctly immediately and with evo I would probably be doomed. So I’m tending towards aliphatic. Be ok you think?
I also have glue the cabin structure to the hatch cover, but I’m struggling somewhat to get s flush fit all round. Still sanding away gently at it.
One query you guys might help with please. See the two balsa blocks in the images, they are to be shaped and fitted at the bow. For the life of me I cannot grasp their use or importance. Do tell if you know.
Next investigation will be preparing the ply ready for painting and how to paint. It would seem to make sense to paint parts, if different colours before joining them together I.e. cabin, deck, roofs etc.
All the best, nobody warned me the expense occurring after kit purchase! Happy days.
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Well I have made some headway. Part assembled the cabin. Been sand the hull ready fit the skins. I’m putting that off at the moment! I’m not sure how I’m going to do it yet. Instructions says use evo stick. I’m not sure I’d position it correctly immediately and with evo I would probably be doomed. So I’m tending towards aliphatic. Be ok you think?
I also have glue the cabin structure to the hatch cover, but I’m struggling somewhat to get s flush fit all round. Still sanding away gently at it.
One query you guys might help with please. See the two balsa blocks in the images, they are to be shaped and fitted at the bow. For the life of me I cannot grasp their use or importance. Do tell if you know.
Next investigation will be preparing the ply ready for painting and how to paint. It would seem to make sense to paint parts, if different colours before joining them together I.e. cabin, deck, roofs etc.
All the best, nobody warned me the expense occurring after kit purchase! Happy days.
Very interesting, Robbob.
So those balsa pieces on the bow won't be further covered with wood? They'll be exposed, painted, or resin-coated directly.
I've always seen [especially in static modeling] use shaped pieces of wood on the bow to facilitate attaching the strips in that point (very difficult).
Of course, this saves time, it's an excellent method, even if you have to be very skilled manually, you did an excellent job.
Carved balsa wood block is often used in Classic Model Power Boat models to save the problem of wrapping plywood skins around difficult areas.
A good example of this is its use on the Vic Smeed Remora design where the same technique is also used to make the cabin roof.
The balsa wood needs to be very well sealed before painting because if it should get damp or wet it will swell and spoil the look of the boat.
I have always used PVA to glue the blasa wood blocks onto my model boats that use them as it allows time to position them and pin them securely in place until the glue has dried.
These pictures were taken when I was building my first Remora in 1965 and I used exactly the same technique when I made my second Remora almost 60 years later.
It doesn’t take much skill, but it does take a little time to sand it carefully and not take too much off at a time.
Hi Robbob,
Fret ye not. It’s a multi material drill bit.
DeWalt Multi Material Drill Bit from Toolstation.
Cut through the ply just fine.
Main difficulty was holding the hull firmly. I had to try and grip it with
one and use the hand drill either the other. This resulted in the hole being
A little off line. Fixed that with drill waggling and filing.
Hi Robbob,
Fret ye not. It’s a multi material drill bit.
DeWalt Multi Material Drill Bit from Toolstation.
Cut through the ply just fine.
Main difficulty was holding the hull firmly. I had to try and grip it with
one and use the hand drill either the other. This resulted in the hole being
A little off line. Fixed that with drill waggling and filing.
Many thanx to all you guys,
I’m feeling rather thick now!
I thought the skins would fit over the balsa blocks as the colours in the photo (instructions are identical! It looks like one piece from stern to prow.
I’m going to try to fit a skin today. Fingers crossed.
Many thanx to all you guys,
I’m feeling rather thick now!
I thought the skins would fit over the balsa blocks as the colours in the photo (instructions are identical! It looks like one piece from stern to prow.
I’m going to try to fit a skin today. Fingers crossed.
Ive managed to fix on the bottom sheets. Still got to trim them.
What have I learned? That not easy to position clamps on hulls. Their shape and size are just not clamp friendly. Cheers.
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Ive managed to fix on the bottom sheets. Still got to trim them.
What have I learned? That not easy to position clamps on hulls. Their shape and size are just not clamp friendly. Cheers.
Hi Glyn.
Good to see you making some progress👍😀
Clamping shouldn't be an issue😐, I suppose it depends on the types and sizes of clamps you're using?
I have an assortment that are very versatile and I use them in combination with brass pins and 'map pins'.
Rob.
