Kathryn - a Thames Bawley - 11
Finishing details
There are a few details to describe that could be of help to other builders.
The first two pictures show the jib sheet emerging onto the deck, then passing forward finishing in a simple loop to which each of the three jib sheets connect. Some explanation is needed here. Firstly, I wanted to be able to withdraw the sheet for maintenance or replacement purposes so I terminate it with a simple overhand knot that can be easily undone. Each of the three jib sheets attach to this loop with a lobster claw hook. The three jib sheets control : 1. the staysail, 2. the jib, 3. the flying jib. Each of their sheets is passed down to the deck thence to the loop.
Pictures 3 and 4 show where the main sheet emerges onto the deck. It passes through a lobster claw hook on the transom horse and then to the boom where it is tied off. Again, I like to have the sheet removable for maintenance etc so a simple knot is used, and not tied too tightly so it can be undone when necessary.
Also in these pictures can be seen the green cord which operates the rudder. A small sawcut was made in the hatch coaming each side to allow the cord to pass, and so far does not seem to have let water in.
The next three pictures show cleats and blocks. These are all hand made, some more carefully than others ! Initially I tried making blocks using the method Gary from SailTails suggests but I found it quite difficult to finish each block identically. These are on the bottom row of the first and second picture. The cleats were made by taking a length of wood, shaving and shaping it to the cleat profile, then cutting each cleat off the length, and finally sanding off the edges and drilling a pilot hole. I used long shank screw eyes to screw and glue these to the mast foot. (see earlier pictures in Blogs 8 and 9.)
My preferred method of block making is shown top left of the first two pictures where a group of four blocks is seen. Also seen in the third picture. The top three have a simple wooden dowel (bamboo skewers) whilst the bottom one uses a brass sheave and axle. The one with the brass sheave was the most fiddly to make. The others were made a dozen at a time from strip hardwood. The first strip was placed on the bench, then using spacing blocks each insert piece was glued down and the top strip glued on. When the glue was fully hardened each block was cut from the strip, sanded to shape and a screw-eye screwed and glued into place. With practice I found I could make these quite quickly, and could even scale them down to suit smaller needs, eg. on 1:32 scale boats.
Next I decided to improve the gaff uphaul. The before and after can be seen in the two photos. The cord now passes up and through a block, then down the mast to a cleat. Much better !
Finally, a few pictures of Kathryn on the water.
In the final blog I will post some videos of her under sail in various wind conditions.
There are a few details to describe that could be of help to other builders.
The first two pictures show the jib sheet emerging onto the deck, then passing forward finishing in a simple loop to which each of the three jib sheets connect. Some explanation is needed here. Firstly, I wanted to be able to withdraw the sheet for maintenance or replacement purposes so I terminate it with a simple overhand knot that can be easily undone. Each of the three jib sheets attach to this loop with a lobster claw hook. The three jib sheets control : 1. the staysail, 2. the jib, 3. the flying jib. Each of their sheets is passed down to the deck thence to the loop.
Pictures 3 and 4 show where the main sheet emerges onto the deck. It passes through a lobster claw hook on the transom horse and then to the boom where it is tied off. Again, I like to have the sheet removable for maintenance etc so a simple knot is used, and not tied too tightly so it can be undone when necessary.
Also in these pictures can be seen the green cord which operates the rudder. A small sawcut was made in the hatch coaming each side to allow the cord to pass, and so far does not seem to have let water in.
The next three pictures show cleats and blocks. These are all hand made, some more carefully than others ! Initially I tried making blocks using the method Gary from SailTails suggests but I found it quite difficult to finish each block identically. These are on the bottom row of the first and second picture. The cleats were made by taking a length of wood, shaving and shaping it to the cleat profile, then cutting each cleat off the length, and finally sanding off the edges and drilling a pilot hole. I used long shank screw eyes to screw and glue these to the mast foot. (see earlier pictures in Blogs 8 and 9.)
My preferred method of block making is shown top left of the first two pictures where a group of four blocks is seen. Also seen in the third picture. The top three have a simple wooden dowel (bamboo skewers) whilst the bottom one uses a brass sheave and axle. The one with the brass sheave was the most fiddly to make. The others were made a dozen at a time from strip hardwood. The first strip was placed on the bench, then using spacing blocks each insert piece was glued down and the top strip glued on. When the glue was fully hardened each block was cut from the strip, sanded to shape and a screw-eye screwed and glued into place. With practice I found I could make these quite quickly, and could even scale them down to suit smaller needs, eg. on 1:32 scale boats.
Next I decided to improve the gaff uphaul. The before and after can be seen in the two photos. The cord now passes up and through a block, then down the mast to a cleat. Much better !
Finally, a few pictures of Kathryn on the water.
In the final blog I will post some videos of her under sail in various wind conditions.
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It looks very good in the water, I await with interest and curiosity to see the videos you have made.
Thanks for the detailed explanations.