The cabin is now complete and the electrics have been added, this comprises of navigation lights, internal cabin lights which are powered through 3mm bullet connectors 4 in all 1 neg and 3 positive all operated through RC switches.
All the windows have Perspex inserts and will need an chrome look surround. these are made from 1mm styrene sheet, I pencilled around the window profiles and cut the external profile (the easy bit) I then drilled 4mm holes at each of the corners.
Next I made a simple jig which would allow me to mill the internal profile by hand, first setting the 3mm thickness and a couple of pins to stop the sheet lifting each piece was moved around cutting away the centre using a 2mm slot drill.
A final deburr and light surface sand (1200 grit) to make sure the chrome pen adheres well. these will be applied on final assembly.
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The cabin is now complete and the electrics have been added, this comprises of navigation lights, internal cabin lights which are powered through 3mm bullet connectors 4 in all 1 neg and 3 positive all operated through RC switches.
All the windows have Perspex inserts and will need an chrome look surround. these are made from 1mm styrene sheet, I pencilled around the window profiles and cut the external profile (the easy bit) I then drilled 4mm holes at each of the corners.
Next I made a simple jig which would allow me to mill the internal profile by hand, first setting the 3mm thickness and a couple of pins to stop the sheet lifting each piece was moved around cutting away the centre using a 2mm slot drill.
A final deburr and light surface sand (1200 grit) to make sure the chrome pen adheres well. these will be applied on final assembly.
I was particularly interested to see your method of producing window frames from plastic sheet. You say you cut the external profile first, but how did you do that without causing the plastic to burr ?😉
(how did you do that without causing the plastic to burr ?😉)
The plastic is 1mm thick so can easily be cut with scissors I did this just shy of the line. I next finished the profile using the disc sander with a fine grit disc, this does leave a burr, but this is easily removed by using a scalpel, drawing at an angle of 45 degrees across the edge of the piece which easily removes the burr leaving a nicely chamfered smooth edge.
The cabin has a rear section which when built as a fixed unit would have made it strong and rigid. However as I’m building a removable cabin I will have to add some additional 4x4 stiffeners around the sides and across the end so when its removed it remain rigid. The sides have what I think would be Chrome trim (4 strips) these are made of wood and have been painted along with the rest of cabin and then have been covered with adhesive aluminium foil ( the old fashioned tape used on window alarm systems) its worked well and looks the part.
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The cabin has a rear section which when built as a fixed unit would have made it strong and rigid. However as I’m building a removable cabin I will have to add some additional 4x4 stiffeners around the sides and across the end so when its removed it remain rigid. The sides have what I think would be Chrome trim (4 strips) these are made of wood and have been painted along with the rest of cabin and then have been covered with adhesive aluminium foil ( the old fashioned tape used on window alarm systems) its worked well and looks the part.
Interesting to see use made of the adhesive aluminium foil. I bought some years ago and have not used it yet, but I do have a project on the go, so ...... mm!? 😉
The cabin cruiser needs to be painted as soon as possible so it can properly harden for a few weeks. I use cellulose paints (a left over mind set from spraying cars) This Cruiser will have a first coat of etch primer followed by 4 coats of standard grey primer with any filling and smoothing in between coats.
The whole hull will first be sprayed with a white gloss and will receive three to four coats, I prefer to give a number of thin coats this avoids the chances of any runs, which always cause problems, as they need to harden before being flattened.
The hull has been left to harden four a week; it is now hard enough to turn back on its stand. I now need to draw the water line around the hull. I do this by levelling the hull according to the “plans water line” and then using a height gauge with a pencil attached instead of the scriber I pencil a line around the whole hull.
Next masking the lower half of the hull leaving the area to be painted a very light green, again a number coats are applied to give a good depth of paint. The cabin also gets a coat of the green paint, having been painted white on the inside
I will now leave the paint to harden for 2-3 weeks before attempting to finally polish it to a high sheen.(hopefully)
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The cabin cruiser needs to be painted as soon as possible so it can properly harden for a few weeks. I use cellulose paints (a left over mind set from spraying cars) This Cruiser will have a first coat of etch primer followed by 4 coats of standard grey primer with any filling and smoothing in between coats.
The whole hull will first be sprayed with a white gloss and will receive three to four coats, I prefer to give a number of thin coats this avoids the chances of any runs, which always cause problems, as they need to harden before being flattened.
The hull has been left to harden four a week; it is now hard enough to turn back on its stand. I now need to draw the water line around the hull. I do this by levelling the hull according to the “plans water line” and then using a height gauge with a pencil attached instead of the scriber I pencil a line around the whole hull.
Next masking the lower half of the hull leaving the area to be painted a very light green, again a number coats are applied to give a good depth of paint. The cabin also gets a coat of the green paint, having been painted white on the inside
I will now leave the paint to harden for 2-3 weeks before attempting to finally polish it to a high sheen.(hopefully)
The front cabin has a windscreen, which is made from clear plastic sheet, which is supplied in the kit, this was roughly the correct shape. To bend the piece at the right angles I heated a piece of 2mm rod and held the bend line over it but not touching until it was pliable I then bent it to the correct angle drawn on a plan. I I felt that the sheet now the correct shape needed some solid surround. To match the rest of the boats wood it needed to be made from a dark wood such as walnut. I cut square sections 5 x 5 mm and then cut a 1mm slot along its length.
This was then cut into required pieces to slot onto the plastic I cut the screen in half to make it easier to put a central pillar in. the sides presented an issue in that they are curved, so a profile was cut out and carefully a slot was cut into the curve.
The whole assembly was glued together with the assistance of a metal jig and CA and then 1.0 mm pins secure it to the deck
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The front cabin has a windscreen, which is made from clear plastic sheet, which is supplied in the kit, this was roughly the correct shape. To bend the piece at the right angles I heated a piece of 2mm rod and held the bend line over it but not touching until it was pliable I then bent it to the correct angle drawn on a plan. I I felt that the sheet now the correct shape needed some solid surround. To match the rest of the boats wood it needed to be made from a dark wood such as walnut. I cut square sections 5 x 5 mm and then cut a 1mm slot along its length.
This was then cut into required pieces to slot onto the plastic I cut the screen in half to make it easier to put a central pillar in. the sides presented an issue in that they are curved, so a profile was cut out and carefully a slot was cut into the curve.
The whole assembly was glued together with the assistance of a metal jig and CA and then 1.0 mm pins secure it to the deck
This is what modelling is all about ! Finding solutions to making things and pursuing ideas to a successful conclusion.
I applaud your determination and patience to produce one small part of a boat that many will glance at without a second thought as to how it was made, or indeed just how long it took in the planning and execution. Only a true modeller will recognise and appreciate what you have achieved.
Well done. 😉
The deck fittings are minimal consisting of forward and rear cleats with bollards front and rear. These were all scratch made from brass, and are pinned and epoxied to the deck. Although this takes a lot of time it’s a most satisfying part of a build for me as I consider myself a builder not a sailor.
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The deck fittings are minimal consisting of forward and rear cleats with bollards front and rear. These were all scratch made from brass, and are pinned and epoxied to the deck. Although this takes a lot of time it’s a most satisfying part of a build for me as I consider myself a builder not a sailor.
The build is now complete and we are waiting for the maiden voyage to take place at the earliest opportunity Its been an interesting build with plenty of problems to be solved, but in all the kit is a comprehensive package, supplying a full box of materials covering all the build requirements. The plans are self-explanatory to the intermediate builder leaving nothing to chance.
I have during the build made quite a few deviations from plan such as planking and general additional woodwork, lighting and internal fittings.
My overall comment is that it’s a great kit to build and makes a wonderful model.
Next project is to finish the Inga IV
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The build is now complete and we are waiting for the maiden voyage to take place at the earliest opportunity Its been an interesting build with plenty of problems to be solved, but in all the kit is a comprehensive package, supplying a full box of materials covering all the build requirements. The plans are self-explanatory to the intermediate builder leaving nothing to chance.
I have during the build made quite a few deviations from plan such as planking and general additional woodwork, lighting and internal fittings.
My overall comment is that it’s a great kit to build and makes a wonderful model.
Next project is to finish the Inga IV
"it won't be anywhere near as good as yours."
Somehow, judging from your own Build Blogs, I doubt that Robbob😉
You set the bar pretty high yourself.
Looking forward to your Marlin build.
New workshop? Who's a lucky boy then😁
Blog on Man😎
The plastic is 1mm thick so can easily be cut with scissors I did this just shy of the line. I next finished the profile using the disc sander with a fine grit disc, this does leave a burr, but this is easily removed by using a scalpel, drawing at an angle of 45 degrees across the edge of the piece which easily removes the burr leaving a nicely chamfered smooth edge.