Found in an antiques shop - knocked them down from £10 to just £5.
She needs a lot of work. But I am up for the challange.
That tappy twin is gummed up and refuses to turn, but I'm hoping to be able to strip and get it up and running.
Not going to be a quick project, as I run a very busy refrigeration company, but I will update as and when I make progress.
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Hi Bassman, my plans are for the 24” version, and reading through the trail, yours might be the larger versions. Let me know your size 🤣 and I’ll send through email if you PM it to me. 👍
So, after watching a disappointing f1 qualifying.... I decided its time to pull out the old diesel and see if its salvageable.
Once out, a little gentle torque and it felt "gummed up" like if the fuel had been left in for a long long time rather than being seized.
Not knowing where she was stuck, i didn't want to force it and risk bending a con rod, marring the bearings or scoring the bores, so I decided to strip it down.
Was nice to see lock wire used on each end of the crank cases, compression screws came out ok(both at very different turns though) heads came off clean, as did the carb, exhaust and cylinders.
The cylinder to crankcase gaskets are intact and look in serviceable condition too.
Have yet to strip the carb.
By the look of it, the main crankshaft halves seems to be an interference fit, so as long as the centre bearing is OK with no play I will not seperate it.
I will replace the bearings in both crankcase end cases, I have a local bearing supplier that I use for work, so I'm sure the lt can source the required sizes.
All parts have been put into my cleaner, so will come back in a day or two once that has had a chance to dissolve all the organic matter and clean/inspect and reassemble.
Is it too premature to order some diesel for it😝
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So, after watching a disappointing f1 qualifying.... I decided its time to pull out the old diesel and see if its salvageable.
Once out, a little gentle torque and it felt "gummed up" like if the fuel had been left in for a long long time rather than being seized.
Not knowing where she was stuck, i didn't want to force it and risk bending a con rod, marring the bearings or scoring the bores, so I decided to strip it down.
Was nice to see lock wire used on each end of the crank cases, compression screws came out ok(both at very different turns though) heads came off clean, as did the carb, exhaust and cylinders.
The cylinder to crankcase gaskets are intact and look in serviceable condition too.
Have yet to strip the carb.
By the look of it, the main crankshaft halves seems to be an interference fit, so as long as the centre bearing is OK with no play I will not seperate it.
I will replace the bearings in both crankcase end cases, I have a local bearing supplier that I use for work, so I'm sure the lt can source the required sizes.
All parts have been put into my cleaner, so will come back in a day or two once that has had a chance to dissolve all the organic matter and clean/inspect and reassemble.
With regard to IC engines and blasts from the past, a couple of my engines both of which are pleasantly clean. A 4 stroke OS 61, and a 2 stroke SC 75. Regards, Gary.
Took all the engine parts out of the solvent bath, and now clean....ish I can inspect all the parts. The pistons and cylinders look great, no scoring at all. Very little play if any the both the little end and big end bushings.
Thats the good bit, all of the crankshaft bearings (4 ball and 2 needle) are toast. Unfortunately whatever moisture they have been left to sit in has ruined the balls,needles and races.
The crank Centre bearing was the worst, and felt like it had grinding paste in it, so I had to split the crank, but to be fair was actually pretty easy, some gentle heat on the socket side and tap with a drift and it came apart easy.
I'll head to the bearing shop tomorrow to source the new bearings.
It's then time to clean it all with some extra extra fine wire wool (outer casings) and then re assemble.
I'll have to make a new cork exhaust gasket, and I'll probably make new barrel to crankcase gaskets too.
Even though I do want this engine to run, and run well. I am leaning more and more to going twin drive, more for scale accuracy reasons, and probably brushless.
Does anyone have any advice on twin electric setups? Should I have the props contra rotating? Will it be easy enough to balance the outputs?
Thanks for looking 👍
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Took all the engine parts out of the solvent bath, and now clean....ish I can inspect all the parts. The pistons and cylinders look great, no scoring at all. Very little play if any the both the little end and big end bushings.
Thats the good bit, all of the crankshaft bearings (4 ball and 2 needle) are toast. Unfortunately whatever moisture they have been left to sit in has ruined the balls,needles and races.
The crank Centre bearing was the worst, and felt like it had grinding paste in it, so I had to split the crank, but to be fair was actually pretty easy, some gentle heat on the socket side and tap with a drift and it came apart easy.
I'll head to the bearing shop tomorrow to source the new bearings.
It's then time to clean it all with some extra extra fine wire wool (outer casings) and then re assemble.
I'll have to make a new cork exhaust gasket, and I'll probably make new barrel to crankcase gaskets too.
Even though I do want this engine to run, and run well. I am leaning more and more to going twin drive, more for scale accuracy reasons, and probably brushless.
Does anyone have any advice on twin electric setups? Should I have the props contra rotating? Will it be easy enough to balance the outputs?
Managed to get everything nice and clean, bearing shop had the ball bearings but not the needles, so they have been ordered. Hopefully here in a few days.
Will then reassemble and then look to setting it up on a bench to give it a test run🤞
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Managed to get everything nice and clean, bearing shop had the ball bearings but not the needles, so they have been ordered. Hopefully here in a few days.
Will then reassemble and then look to setting it up on a bench to give it a test run🤞
Here's a couple of threads to get you started. Had a quick look on here but couldn't find anything.
The first one is the smaller 34" version and uses brushed motors but still has some useful info. and the second uses the 47" H31 hull (says 41" but it's a typo) and brushless. Many of us use simpler motor mounts, but again still useful. If it was me I'd go for bigger motors, something like Overlander Thumper V3 4250/06 800kv running on 4S LiPos. Brushless are great motors and very powerful but I like to have something in hand! If you want exposed prop shafts like the original then if you can't make them as shown then they are available.
New needle bearings arrived this morning, so a final clean and then it was time to reassemble.
Had to make new crank case gaskets, but that was simple enough.
Nut and bolt method to carefully press the bearings home, makes it easy to ensure they go in square.
Constantly checking the crank assembly to make sure there was no binding, and with the flywheel on, it spins over very nicely.
Added some assembly oil and even with the screws loose, there feels to be great compression.
Had to make a new exhaust gasket, but it looks a little.... rubbish. So will re do that.
I think it looks great, I didn't want to try to get it looking as new, as it is older than me.
Need to get some diesel now so I can try and get it running this week.
I think I will sell it on and push forward with electric power.
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I suppose that means you're keeping it.
Well done shipmate that's a motor to be proud of, you've done a fine job resurrecting her.
Can't wait to see it running, cheers Colin.
Whilst waiting for some diesel to test the taplin (my local model shop is closing this month, and has no stock and will not be ordering any either, shame). I thought its time to tackle the boat.
Firstly the lift off superstructure was completely dismantled, only the front cabin/window section broke. Every other part came apart. Thanks to the very old glue no doubt.
Now I am two minds if I should build as a sport, as I have plans for this and I think I prefer the look. Or should I rebuild it as it was.
I think the latter as it is supposed to be a restoration project, but I'm undecided 🙃
Have also started to remove the veneer decking, very slow and tedious task but almost there now.
I decided to completely remove the foredeck as A: it had some damage. B) the ply had started to swell from water damage and C) it wasn't a great fit.
The plan of attack is to make a new part for the deck, then turn my attention to the Hull.
I will be running twin screw/rudder for a more scale appearance so have the daunting task of removing the old propshaft. I think I may drill it out, by stepping up bit sizes to sneak up on the O/D so it's as least destructive as possible.
If anyone with more experience than me(which is pretty much zero) has any methods of removing the prop that would be a better way, please let me know😎
Thanks for looking.
Ps where is the best place to buy ply? And is cyano OK for the assembly or is pva wood glue better?👍
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Whilst waiting for some diesel to test the taplin (my local model shop is closing this month, and has no stock and will not be ordering any either, shame). I thought its time to tackle the boat.
Firstly the lift off superstructure was completely dismantled, only the front cabin/window section broke. Every other part came apart. Thanks to the very old glue no doubt.
Now I am two minds if I should build as a sport, as I have plans for this and I think I prefer the look. Or should I rebuild it as it was.
I think the latter as it is supposed to be a restoration project, but I'm undecided 🙃
Have also started to remove the veneer decking, very slow and tedious task but almost there now.
I decided to completely remove the foredeck as A: it had some damage. B) the ply had started to swell from water damage and C) it wasn't a great fit.
The plan of attack is to make a new part for the deck, then turn my attention to the Hull.
I will be running twin screw/rudder for a more scale appearance so have the daunting task of removing the old propshaft. I think I may drill it out, by stepping up bit sizes to sneak up on the O/D so it's as least destructive as possible.
If anyone with more experience than me(which is pretty much zero) has any methods of removing the prop that would be a better way, please let me know😎
Thanks for looking.
Ps where is the best place to buy ply? And is cyano OK for the assembly or is pva wood glue better?👍
Cash