Decide to fiberglass the hull before gluing the mahagany in place. Used Ezy-Kote to paint the cloth in place.
Rick
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Glued mahagany on the transom. Some shaping done to bottom. Used filler at transom edge and sides. Sides need clean up before mahagany can be glued on
Rick
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Glued mahagany on the transom. Some shaping done to bottom. Used filler at transom edge and sides. Sides need clean up before mahagany can be glued on
Rick
First two rows of mahagany on the sides.
Rick
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Glued on 2 1/2 more rows of mahagany stripes. Good to see the hull shape transformed with mahagany.
Rick
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Sides finished sanding and sealing to come.
Rick
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The drawing for the stand was to be transfered to wood of choice I felt the disign was to small for this build. Had a length of 1x4 pine and picked up 7/16 dowel to build a redisigned stand. Marked the plan angles onto the pine and disigned the shape to be cut out. Cut out drilled and put together. Clean up to come.
Rick
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The drawing for the stand was to be transfered to wood of choice I felt the disign was to small for this build. Had a length of 1x4 pine and picked up 7/16 dowel to build a redisigned stand. Marked the plan angles onto the pine and disigned the shape to be cut out. Cut out drilled and put together. Clean up to come.
Rick
Hi I like to make my boat stands work for a living. I fit a tray underneath, very useful when down by the water. I also fit stick on plastic feet so that the stand cannot scratch tables etc.
Lately I have extended the boat stands lower so that the transmitter had a place to sit. I have been using old 'mouse mat', cut to size, to line crutch part. It is good to avoid hard points that over time can cause pressure marks in the paint finish.
When using wood dowel for the stand it can be made a little neater where it exits at the support ends by fitting brass screws with cup washers.
They look neat but also they expand the end of the dowel a little and effectively clamp the dowel in place, you will not need glue. This does make it easier for some adjustments.
The stand is a 3D thing and has to be flat and not wobble but also to hild the hull squarely in position.
Work started on the superstructure. The numbered pieces (6) were punched out to make the two sides for the cabin. The pieces are butt jioned and needed a left and right. Not sure the glue would be enough to hold the pieces together. Cut strips of fiber cloth and glued each seam on the inside of both sides. Built the front of the cabin. clean up and sanding to come.
Rick
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Work started on the superstructure. The numbered pieces (6) were punched out to make the two sides for the cabin. The pieces are butt jioned and needed a left and right. Not sure the glue would be enough to hold the pieces together. Cut strips of fiber cloth and glued each seam on the inside of both sides. Built the front of the cabin. clean up and sanding to come.
Rick
The front and rear bulkheads were made sanded and trim pieces put in place.
The rear bulkhead was changed to add a window as the drawing did not show one and trim added.
The front bulkhead was changed to mahagany pieces instead of basswood 3rd picture basswood pieces.
Roof frames were built.
Rick
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The front and rear bulkheads were made sanded and trim pieces put in place.
The rear bulkhead was changed to add a window as the drawing did not show one and trim added.
The front bulkhead was changed to mahagany pieces instead of basswood 3rd picture basswood pieces.
Roof frames were built.
Rick
The roof frame was built. Pieces to be added to finish the contours and fit. The roof will need to come off for access to all electronics. Final shaping will be done after all work on the superstructure finished
Rick
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The roof frame was built. Pieces to be added to finish the contours and fit. The roof will need to come off for access to all electronics. Final shaping will be done after all work on the superstructure finished
Rick
Rick