Always wanted to build a sportfisher. Now building one.
24" L, 7" Beam
Flashhobby 2300kv outrunner x2
360 A single brushless ESC
Name plate was laser cut on 3mm ply. Decided to call it "Show Time".
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I had to find a way,how to set up the motor so it can run and vibrate. I found this way myself and it looks promising,till now.
Conventional motor mounting used,made a lot sound and sometimes the universal joints just came out one side.
The way i set the motors now can run free and vibrate.
I wanted to know,how do you do it? Do you ever tried to make a flexible motor mount? If yes,how was it?
On the propeller shaft,im using brass rod,m2. Bought a thread cutter to cut threads on the shafts. It wasn't to hard. Using brass gives me a painless rust free running time.
I would use stainless steel but ss ain't easy to cut threads on it.
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I had to find a way,how to set up the motor so it can run and vibrate. I found this way myself and it looks promising,till now.
Conventional motor mounting used,made a lot sound and sometimes the universal joints just came out one side.
The way i set the motors now can run free and vibrate.
I wanted to know,how do you do it? Do you ever tried to make a flexible motor mount? If yes,how was it?
On the propeller shaft,im using brass rod,m2. Bought a thread cutter to cut threads on the shafts. It wasn't to hard. Using brass gives me a painless rust free running time.
I would use stainless steel but ss ain't easy to cut threads on it.
Sakabian, I like your setup, but find it hard to understand why you used brass for the prop shafts as brass is brittle and will snap very easily if there is any vibration or sudden shock from props hitting submerged obstacle.
Cheers Colin.
I chose brass because it doesn't catch rust. And i had to cut some threads on the shaft. Brass is softer than SS.
I tried to thread my ss shafts but my drill machine can't handle it.
I don't have lathe either so brass was my only option.
Im putting some photos,there you can see i used brass shaft on them both and they didn't let me down,till now. 😐
So i had to keep faith!
Another thing i tried myself was the Lubricant supply to the propeller shafts. The oil supply box will hold the lube and slowly deliver to shaft sleeves. It's kinda funny but it works.
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Another thing i tried myself was the Lubricant supply to the propeller shafts. The oil supply box will hold the lube and slowly deliver to shaft sleeves. It's kinda funny but it works.
This is one confusing test I'm doing on the boat.
Normally rudder blades are vertical but on this one i tried a bit angle on them. Sail boats has these kind of angle's.
I'm still not sure,if these will work or not but I'm gonna give a try.
I put a couple of bearings,the the copper pipe and then the shaft. I wasn't sure if the bearings would stop the water so i kept another way to rotate the rudder shafts. But the bearings are good enough. I will put some more white grease on them.
Had some changes on the rudder's arm. Servo arm's are better that the handmade wooden arms.
Any help appreciated!
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This is one confusing test I'm doing on the boat.
Normally rudder blades are vertical but on this one i tried a bit angle on them. Sail boats has these kind of angle's.
I'm still not sure,if these will work or not but I'm gonna give a try.
I put a couple of bearings,the the copper pipe and then the shaft. I wasn't sure if the bearings would stop the water so i kept another way to rotate the rudder shafts. But the bearings are good enough. I will put some more white grease on them.
Had some changes on the rudder's arm. Servo arm's are better that the handmade wooden arms.
Any help appreciated!
2mm balsa to make the air vent. 2/3mm PVC to build the supports. I will put a layer of balsa on top. The top will be wooden, hopefully.
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Firstly, same here. I'm not sure how it will work or even if it will work or not. Hopefully the shafts wont bent, HOPEFULLY.
And the rudder linkage, I'm not sure what you were talking about. I hope you will share some more ideas so i can do better with them.
I live in Bangladesh and there's no Boat shop here. I am trying these ideas so i can know before opening a Boat shop/Hobbyshop. I do get the parts from China but bringing all the part's are kind of expensive so i tried to build some parts myself. R&D 😊
As regards the rudders the theory is Ok but the wire used is very thin for a push/pull system. Also that vertical part of the bend is likely to flex a lot. Have you tried operating the servo and holding the rudder blades lightly?
Also where the wire is bent to go into the arms it may spring out unless you have secured the ends on the underside which we can't see.
This was an idea from nowhere. Looking at the actual boat's from famous Jarrett Bay Boat work's,they all has Garmin display on the bridge.
Wanted to do the same but what could be a good mini display and what should i show?
My friend, who's good with electronics ,helped me to build these arduino oled displays and did all the coding stuff. So i can put on the Boat name,rpm, distance covered, engine temp.
The black fan is a 12v blower fan for 3d printer. Air cooling.
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This was an idea from nowhere. Looking at the actual boat's from famous Jarrett Bay Boat work's,they all has Garmin display on the bridge.
Wanted to do the same but what could be a good mini display and what should i show?
My friend, who's good with electronics ,helped me to build these arduino oled displays and did all the coding stuff. So i can put on the Boat name,rpm, distance covered, engine temp.
The black fan is a 12v blower fan for 3d printer. Air cooling.
2mm balsa on the whole deck.under the wood,there will be pvc.
Shame,the wood will be painted white.
Bridge is also wooden.
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Sorry for the late update.
I have changed a lot spec's. It has 2x Emax 2212 1400kv , 35mm triple blade props, 35A opto x2 and a 5200mah 3s lipo with a metal gear 9g servo. Looks good,sails good.
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Sorry for the late update.
I have changed a lot spec's. It has 2x Emax 2212 1400kv , 35mm triple blade props, 35A opto x2 and a 5200mah 3s lipo with a metal gear 9g servo. Looks good,sails good.
Yes, it was a stern heavy boat on the first trial. These are my first ever trial photos,i ran again but i don't have any other running photos.
Originally,i didn't plan for opto ESC's. But i had some opto ESC's (these are usually used in drones and very lightweight) and end up using a couple of those. But the original boat ESC's are a bit heavier and the plan was to use them for some weight.
Another problem i noticed,this was a small boat to use a 5200mah 3s lipo. I made a small space under the bridge section for the battery,and the 5200mah just fits. But it made the boat stern heavy while running fast.
One more thing,i added some steel balls to gain some stability under the bridge section+ beside the rudder's. Those made the boat stern heavy as well.
So ,now I'm trying fix them one by one. This was my first ever sportfish & made some silly mistakes,so i appreciate every little bit you guys suggest!
Here, I'm gonna leave some photos of hull no3. She's a better boat than this one. It has bigger and heavier motors(i had emax 2212 1400kv) , front ESC's which are heavy ,and battery space at the center.
I will try to upload a bunch of photos when i can.(it was a custom order) CHEER'S!
I missed a part of your comment. The boat is scratch built. The hull was a paid SOLIDWORKS design and turned into a 3d printable file.
Everything but the hull is handmade, including the drive shafts.
I specially ordered for the flare 🎃🔥
